$5000 budget Mustang by Ron S

By diyauto

106 minute read

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$5000 budget Mustang 

Compliments of Ron S @ pro-touring.com


Been posting this car over at Musclerides,thought I would try over here.I bought a 66 Mustang fastback out of a junk yard for $400.Thought I would challenge myself to building as exotic a g machine as possible for $5000.So far Car $400,Dana 60 truck rear with 410's and powerlock $75,Housing ends and axles $375,c5 susp. and truck arms Ebay $600,frame $400.Wheels 18x12 and 18x10 Ebay $900,traded some stuff for some tires.thats $2750.for the car and rolling chassis.I'm recycling everthing,flaring the old fenders and quarters for the additional width.My delema:I got a 4.6 2cam and 5 speed with wiring ass. etc off Racingjunk for $750.I don't think it will meet my power wants at 280hp.It seems like you have to supercharge these things to get any real power out of them,and that would kill the budget.I think I could sell it and make some money and put it towards maybe an ls1 and easily hit the 400hp mark,much cheaper.Should I keep it all Ford? its already got a c5 suspension in it.What to do???Ron

lenty,thats why the chassis was built floors where nonexistent,but I always loved that body style


A gallon of bondo is cheap,I've got some old paint around from previous projects,maybe I can come up with enough to squirt it.I really want to stay with EFI on the engine.I've got a bunch of computers and wiring laying around for the LS1 stuff,enough to make it run anyway.I would rather keep it all Ford,I just don't know anyway to get a 4.6 to 400HP without spending a pile of cash,I'm open to suggestions though.I guess the budget is going to win out in the end.Ron

Thanks for all the input guys.Nitrous is always cool Vinnie,but I want 400 naturally aspirated HP,I'll probably squeeze it anyway,because I can take the nitrous off another car.The turbo idea crossed my mind,but after seeing poor Scott's Grand National run autocross at RTTH,by the time poor Scott got the thing to spool up,it would start blowing the tires off,then he'd have to get out of it for a turn,it just seemed too unpredictable for autocrossing.I've got some feelers out for maybe a junkyard 5.4 4cam Navigator motor,but the cams are a $1000{4 of them}.There are alot of 4.6 Mustangs that are flying,but they're not doing it cheaply.I've still have alittle time to make my mind up,I'd really like to keep it all Ford,but I know what I can do with the LS1 and I've still have some LS1 junk laying around from previous projects.Thanks for the help guys.Ron


There will be a little cheating due to the fact that I'm just finishing up to pretty major projects,and there is alot of left over junk laying around{metal,lines etc.}And I traded a guy a set of BFG tries for a wine cooler I had setting in my garage.I'm just counting the out of pocket expenses.I watch Ebay,Craigslist,and Racingjunk like a hawk,I wouldn't have been able to do this with out some lucky bidding.What did we do before Ebay?Unless I find a smoking deal on a LS1,I will use the 4.6 and hope,some kind of power adder falls in my lap.I'm located in Maryland.Ron


I found a line on a cheap LS1,that I can get and reach my HP level with,but it won't leave much for a trans.so after crunching the numbers 20 times.I either can run a 4.6 and 5 speed at about 280hp or run a LS1 with an automatic at about 400 hp.I would much rather run a manual trans,but the car will have 335/30/18's on the back,and I can't think of anything more embarrassing then not being able to turn them.Ron


Found a 5.4 4 cam this weekend out of a 2003 Navigator with 50,000 miles for $1600,I can put it right to the 5 speed.I think I could get to the 400Hp mark with it,and sell the 4.6.The 400HP mark will still be easier to obtain with the LS1,and I think still cheaper.I'll give myself one more week to roll it around in my head then I'm just going to have to do something,because the chassis is just about done,and I need to fab some mounts.Ron


Tires came in today,couldn't wait to get them mounted and balanced.Front of chassis finally done,all I have to do is make the rear up rights.Finally desided on an engine,scored a LS1 from my buddy Troy for $300,it will take a couple hundred to replace the peices that are missing but is a low milage engine.Should cheese off all the die hard Ford guys,maybe I'll paint the LS1 Ford blue and nobody will know the difference.Ron


Thats really good to know,thanks.Just ordered the rear springs and weight jacks from race proven parts,the springs were $6.50 ea. and the weight jacks were $18.00,right in my budget,you just can't beat Ebay.Ron


Now that I have the tires and wheels mounted I can measure and narrow the rear.Using a Dana 60 out of an old bread truck,because of its 4.10's and power lock{and I got it for $75}.The rear ended up being so wide because of the C5 front suspension,that my narrowing jig would barely reach.The cuts off the rear were right at the original welds on the truck housing.The rear ended up at 63" face to face,about the same width as a full size pickup rear {big}.Ron


I CAN NOT BELEIVE YOU EVEN KNEW WHAT THAT WAS!!I didn't think think anyone on this board would recognize what that was.Its a model A sedan body i'm doing some metal work on for my father.Tried to talk him into chopping it and putting a Hemi in it.But he'll have no part of it,just have to finish tigging in some patches so he can take it home.Ron


Its Finally A Roller,setting Body On Tomorrow


Set body down on frame,OSHA would not have been happy.What do you think about the ride height,it seems kinda high,but by the top of the tire to the body line,it should be correct compared to the other Mustangs I like the height on.Ron


Thanks,I know these cars are never low enough for anyone on this board.But unlike my Camaro or Cuda,the tires are not tucked in behind the quarter panel,so the construction of the bulge or flare is a little different.I need to leave myself enough room to transition the metal back into the regular quarter,hopefully without it looking stupid.I lowered the car 1 1/2",I really don't think I can go much lower and get the metal formed,and still look cool.The bottom of the frame is 7" in rear and 6.5" in front What do you think.Ron


Frame dropped 3.5",got the bottom of the rocker to 5".What do you think low enough,too low?Ron


Cut the firewall off,getting ready to set the engine,most of the rust is gone now,but then again,so is most of the car.I'll probably start bending the cage before I fab the firewall back up.Ron


What strips?Do you mean the stripes,because they are what caught my eye when I bought the peice of crap,sexy aren't they.Ron


Set engine in ,sets about 5" into firewall.Still need to find a trans though.If I scrounge up some pedals,and a trans this thing could be moving soon.Ron


Been doing alot of traveling for work,finally blasted the thing looks much cleaner without the rust,but not as cool with the stripes gone.Ron


Picked up a ls1 longblock in peices for $300,c5 mounts$100,traded f body oil pan for vette pan and vette assesories.cam $329,valve springs $170.Head gaskets and bolts$100.Thats about $1000 out of pocket.I have several PCM's that I had tuned when I ran the Hemi in my Cuda off LS1 stuff http://mysite.verizon.net/ls6ron/ I have lots of misc. LS1 parts already. Also have a 68 Camaro with a LS1.I'm real familiar with that system and have done at least 10 of the harnesses now.I see no reason i can't get to 400 RWHP.The real problem is a trans that will hold up, on the cheap.Ron


Lets see,I scored a Muncie M21 trans,shifter and bellhousing from my buddy Brian,traded it for an old set of Mustang II spindles and rack I had laying around.Also finally got a serial # and title and some parts off a car that got scraped.Picked a set of LS6 heads,cam and intake for a song.Got and LS1 throttle body off ebay for 95 cents,I also sold my 4.6 engine and trans.So here I am,Have a complete chassis,motor,trans,rear,body setting on chassis,all accesories and brakes.I have about $1800.00 left.still need rollbar tubing,fuel tank,chassis wiring,seats and sheet metal.Now that the trans is here I am sure I will make it{I'd rather of had an overdrive,but beggers can't be choosers}I'm still thrashing every night after work on my Camaro trying to get it in color,so as soon as its done I'll be back on the Mustang.Not enough hours in the day.Ron


I'm painting the engine Ford blue,and remote mounting the coils,maybe the Ford guys won't notice.LOL. Ron


Finally got a little time to play.Cutting up some fenders I got out of the scrap pile at a local body shop{free of course}.What do you think of the height and width before i start attaching and forming the metal to the quarters.Ron


Got the motor and trans set down in place,I'm tempted to put a driveshaft in it, pull the body back off and drive it around like a go cart.My Camaro is about 8 hours away from paint,I block sand a panel a night,man is it boring.As soon as I spray it I'll make some posts on it,but it just looks like a primered Camaro right now.Ron


Kind of fell off the wagon and bought my first luxury item,at over{$400}.Tried to talk myself into the manifolds,but just couldn't.GTO headers fit my chassis perfect.Kind of tough on the budget but should help the performance.Ron


I sat for days crunching numbers on how to make decent power on a budget with Ford stuff,had a couple sleepless nights researching and calculating it just couldn't be done on such a tight budget.I didn't want to,but I figured with C5 suspension,Dana 60 out of a Mopar bread truck,it was already such a mutt,what the hell.If you could see some of the 95 cent puchases I've made on Ebay you would laugh.Its against my nature not to just pick up the phone and order it. If I make the $5000 budget with what the car will be,it kind of suprizes even me,but man is that body a peice of crapLOL.Ron


Just got back from Atlanta,while I was cruising thru Tenn. I stopped and picked up a new toy.Can't wait to start bending some tubing.Ron


Kind of made me a little sick to my stomach to cut on new fenders but at $108 a peice,it makes Camaro parts seem expensive LOL.The body sets so low on the chassis I don't think a flat hood will fit over the LS1 intake.That is the first time I've seen hood clearance issues with a LS1 engine.My original fears have come true,tires are so deep into fenders,I'm not going to have much room to transition flares,its a good thing this is a piece of crap.LOL .Ron


Started hacking on some flares,trying to keep from having that fiberglass flat flare look,glass would be alot easier though.What do you think,too big?Ron


Getting ready to sign up for RTTH, and the last year has been crazy,haven't had the time to work steady on anything.I have a Camaro which is real close to color,and should be nice ride,and I have this Mustang which is lets face it kind of nasty.They both will require about the same amount of time to get together,and neither one will have any test time on them so it will break.What do you think bust ass on the Camaro,or the Mustang?Ron


I can't find a flare that I really like,here is ine off of an 08 Mustang,I better make up my mind if I'm going to make it to RTTH.Ron


The hood came from CJ Mustang parts,in keeping with the budget,its a scratch and dent peice,two of the 4 corners have cracks in them.{perfect for this car}Its a 2.5" cowl.Ron


Heres a new one for me,the truck arm suspension didn't leave much room for exhaust,so I'm running side exhaust.I couldn't find a muffler that would fit in my limited size and shape requirements,so I built my own.They fit perfect,but have no idea what they sound like.I baffled them similar to the Flowmasters.Kind of cool from the bottom,because it is flat as the frame and looks really smooth.Ron


Sandblasted the Mustang frame today,that gives me less then a month to reassemble before RTTH.It should really be like the racecars of old,held together with duct tape and chewing gum.all my freinds are taking bets to see if I make it.Where is that Overhaulin crew when you need them.Ron


Chassis is painted and back together,body is held on with visegrips while I bend up the roll cage.Tick tock


Got cage bent and tacked in.It really turned out good,stayed real high and tight,from the outside of the car you can't even see it.Going to pull the body off one more time to make tigging all the tubing easier.While the body is off I'll prime it,by next weekend it should be installed for keeps.Ron


Body back off while I tig the tubing,kind of cool looking like this.sprung for the chromoly tubing,so it has to be tigged,kind of wish I'd had used mild steel,and I would have been done 2 days ago.Ron


Got the pedal box built,using a c5 master cylinder I got off Ebay for 95 cents and a wilwood slave,can't move fast enough.Ron


Just got back,UPS delivered my mufflers back from the coaters.Performance Coatings out of Georgia,did and excellent job.Ron


Wrenching time is getting hard to come by,Overhaulin crew where are you.Got most of the floors and firewall fabbed,tried to leave a fair amount of room just in case I one day convert back to ford power.It will be a miracle if I make it.Ron


Just set the body on the chassis for the last time today.That gives me seven days to put the car the rest of the way together.If I were a betting man I'd say there is no way in hell this car is going to make it to RTTH.There is still so much to do,but I'm going to continue to thrash on it,and hope that I make it.Should be a real zip tie special though,and not much to look at,but I'll bring it anyway.Ron


Finally getting back to this car,the interior kind of looks like the inside of a battleship.I'm debating on putting carpet in it or not,looks more racecar without.Ron


I've been crazy busy at work,but finally got some time to build and install the tubs,went crazy big with the tubs,because there was no interior restrictions,finally got a grasp on what I am doing with the flares,as soon as these tubs are finished,I'll finish the flares and quarters.Hoping they turn out as good as I'm picturing in my head.Ron


I've had a pile of family stuff to do,just about caught up,its funny tonight was the first time of even looked at the car in a while.The one rear door post was rotted beyond repair,I just replaced it tonight with one off a doner car.Its funny before RTTH,none of this little stuff was important,I just wanted to make it mobile.But since I didn't make it,I figured I might as well fix all this stupid crap that will make it a much nicer car.This weekend I should do the final welding on the rear flares{I'll post some pics then}Ron


Finally got the rear flares made,but I can't attach them until I get the exhaust exits figured out.I'm having a hell of a time building something that is as large as I want it to be,but not look stupid,because I usually don't like side exhaust.I think I've desided on 4" pipe split down the middle with a 1" peice of flat bar welded in making it an oval,with a 3" pipe inside it,with the same treatment,I'm going to have to look at it some before I weld it all in.What do you think? Ron


Ok,figured how I'm doing the exhaust,dummying up the flares I built,I'm not really sure I'm in love with them either,I'm finding its kind of hard to cover up 5 inches of tire.Truefully,what do you think?You won't hurt my feelings,I hate to back to the drawing board,but I will if they don't grow on me.Ron


The budget got busted on my mad dash to get to RTTH.I'm floating around $5900.00.Everything is here except the windsheild and a gallon of paint.Thought about functioal vents,but thats more time and money.I NEED TO DRIVE SOMETHING!!Ron

Trying the IMSA Monza look,what do you think?Ron

I'm down to the 2 of them,either with possible vents.Walk around it a couple more times tomorrow then flip a coin.LOL.I've got to keep reminding myself of what this project is.Grunge,lack of perfection touring.Its not supposed to be perfect,originally I told myself I'd attach the quarters with zip screws,for easy replacement{I may still}Ron


One more time.Vents,too much,not enough?the pipe beneath it,is what the exhaust passes thru,and will be shaped to the rocker.Ron


Got the rocker section built,I wish I could have gotten the exhaust exit back alittle farther,but with the perimeter frame with the truck arms,there was no other place for it to go.The sucky part is now I have to do the other side of the car.Ron


Made the functional portion of the vents,all this little stuff really slows you down.Ron


With all the cars I've tubbed thru the years,and always had a problem figuring out how to attach the tub to the quarter.Mini tubbing was always alittle easier,because you could use the outter wheel house to attach to.This car the tire is so far out there,that there is no outter house.Formed a peice of angle to the shape of the quarter and used the new panel adhesive that all the body shops are using,worked pretty good.I was very reluctant to use it,but all my bodyshop buddys say that is all they use now.No weld spatter all over everything,I did had to borrow the gun,and the adhesive added $35 to the budget,but it was easy.Ron


Its my Dodge Power Wagon


Just finished welding the quarter and new rocker in place.Still don't know if I will put some kind of bezel around vent,but it feels good to finally have parts on for keeps.Man is the car wide,I think I'll have to call it a 66 Mustang Fatback.Ron


Got the quarters and rockers finished,made wheelwells out of an old Ford van side.Finally starting to look like a car again.can't wait to start on the front fenders.Ron  http://57hemicuda.smugmug.com/


Thanks guys,its been alot of fun building this,unlike my Cuda or Camaro,which had me doing nothing but prime and sand,until I have no finger prints left.I think I'm going to put a belly pan under the back of the car,covering the fuel tank etc,because the front and center are so flat .Once thats done I figure I'll hook up the fuel line,and take it for a spin.Still have to bend the front down bars and build some coil mounts,and of course the front flares.A smear of mud and a gallon of paint and shes done.Ron


Can't beleive I'm doing this but, the panel, and the panel beneath it was pretty rusty.The under panel isn't avalible so I'll have to make.Still can't get over how cheap the panels are,they make Camaro parts see expensive.If this car would have made it RTTH,I can guarantee it would still be driving around with jagged sheet metal all over it.Ron


I'm using the cheap circle track cell that Jegs sells.It is in a powder coated can,I did modify the pick up to run a internal fuel pump.Ron

Finally got a little time to play.Fitted the tail panel, this has got to be the most like a car this thing has looked since I've owned it.I'm not going to lie, this shot gives me a bit of a chubby.Ron


With all the bending and stretching of all this sheet metal,I was worried about fitting the glass and tail panel,but they were a perfect fit.

With all the different cars I've backhalved thru the years,it always amazed me how out of square the bodies get.I guess its just years of holeshots takes its toll on the sheetmetal.It was kind of nice starting with something you knew was straight and square.

You can kind of get an idea of truley how much bulge there is in that quarter panel,from the pic.Ron


Don't sweat it Preston,we all have to come to a happy medium.I did a car a couple years ago,that I built the rear frame for, X'ed the corners, knew it was square.When I tried to install it in the car,the tire hit on the one side and was 2" in on the other.When I measured the car using string and tape measures,it was like 3" out of square,and didn't have any evidence of being wrecked. That is why I was so suprised as to how straight and square this body fit on this frame.

I also bought a new subframe for my Camaro from a manufacture that will remain nameless.Couldn't get to bolt in the car{thought the car was tweeked}When I got the tape measure out and X'ed the corners on the subframe, it was 1.75" out of square.The frame was never shipped went right from they're shop into my truck,so it didn't get bent it shipment.

It was then that I desided that I could build it better then that.There are some quality manufactures out there though,that build some really nice parts.It pays to do your homework.Ron


Had to pull the belly pan and tail panel off one last time before final welding.Didn't think about the fact that with the belly pan installed and the cars low ride height,it would make it near to impossible to strap the car down on the trailer.So I had to fab some brackets that attach to the frame.The car won't run any bumpers.so it will have tow strap loops in place of the bumper brackets.Should be nice to strap down,I won't even have to crawl under the car.I will do the same in the front.Ron


Started fabbing the fenders when I got home from work tonight.Although I know there is about 6" to cover up,I'm still amazed how big the bulges are.Got the back half of the passanger sided tacked together.What do you think?tToo crazy looking?


Finished roughing in the passenger side fender last night,when I walked out tonight and looked at all the different peices stitched on to this one body.I usually don't name my cars,but this thing just looked like Frankenstien or Frankenstang.The Vette wheels allow me to put the sheet metal right there on the tires{love the look}.Ron


I knew I wasn't going to be able to use factory hinges,and front portion of the cage is landing right where the hinges would be.I figured I'd hinge the hood in reverse,but didn't realize how hard it would be.The nose of the car is so far past the pivot point, the hinges had to lift up before they pivot out.Took a whole day to calculate and fab some mock ups.Ron


I got a couple of the down bars bent and welded,I've still got to put the tie bars in and build the radiator mounts on them.Once the radiator is in,I can finally cross my fingers,and fire the thing up and pray all these junk parts work.Ron


Got a chance to scale my car tonight.It weighed 2750 pounds,with no fuel or driver.Just under 3100 pounds with me a full tank of fuel.Glass isn't in the car yet,so I had to weigh it and put dummbells in place of the glass.That back window is 34 pounds by itself.Makes me think lexan.

The good part was that the car had just about perfect 50/50 weight distribution.Can't get over how acuate the scales are.The car was exactly 26 pounds heavy over the right rear tire were thw battery was.

I was really getting scared that this was going to be a tank.I talked to a fiberglass company about making molds for the front fenders,incorporating the headlight buckets and rings,they are getting back to me,if its not to bad I might do it.Ron


Got the coil and radiator mounts made,need to scrounge up some hoses and make up the spark plug wires.I'm temped to use this Corvette MAF and intake,it kind of matches the Corvette calipers.It may get me some finger gestures from the Ford pureists.This thing is finally coming together.Ron


Getting the brakes and hydraulic clutch up,love the way the fender comes off with just 4 bolts and the hood lifts totally out of the way.


Down to the last things before fire up,some wiring and this fuel pump that I've been dancing around along time.Finally fabbed it up and powder coated it last night.Used a cheap circle track Jegs cell in the powder coated can with the Ebay Walbro 255 fuel pump.Fabbed a new top with the reservoir,filler, and wiring.The whole set up cost about $375.Pretty tight space wise,should fire it up tonight or tommorrow.Ron


Finally fired the LS1 for the first time runs great, the Ram hydraulic throw out bearing is leaking out of the bellhousing though. So I'll pull the trans back out tommorrow.Sometimes I hate aftermarket parts!!! Engine has the Z06 cam in it, and is no where near lopey enough, even with open headers, smooth as silk. I'll see how it runs once the clutch is fixed and maybe upgrade the cam to something more aggressive. Ron


Pulled the trans yesterday,found brand new Ram throwout bearing with fluid running right through it.Man that cheeses me off,after spending an hour to be sure it was shimmed properly.I never even had the pedal hooked to the master cylinder yet,so I know it wasn't overextended.

Its funny Preston that engine, with that cam and heads is GM rated at 405 hp,but to hear it run you'd think it was a Ford Escort.I'm hoping with the proper tune,I can get 400 rwhp out of it. Ron


The car was 2750 dry,but with a full tank of fuel and my 210 lbs in it,she will probably be about 3100 lbs.I'm thinking about a turbo setup,but I really need to debug the rest of the car first.I've still got alot of prettying to do before Georgia,car looks pretty mean though


Finally drove the car for the first time tonight,kind of looked like a dunebuggy.Felt good to finally have it move on its own power.Time to start making it look good.Ron


Here are some shots of the car cruising down the road



Awesome news Ron, love this pic:

I hate to say its kind of hard to tell,it blows the tires off,but the doors were held closed with bungie straps,the seat wasn't bolted down,and I ate so much gravel I could hardly see.It feels pretty snappy,doesn't seem like there will be alot of debugging.Its alot nicer a car then I originally planned.

I've really got to get on the body though,I want it in color before Georgia,and I'm only one guy.Still haven't picked a color yet,a buddy of mine is trying to talk me into spraying base silver on it,then going over it with a scuff pad then clearing it.Kind of a stainless steel look.Kind of intersting?{still doing the hood and top of fenders flat black} Ron


TOO MANY HOURS. lol.No I haven't kept track of the hours,if I did I wouldn't consider it a cheap car anymore.The 7300 is just out of pocket expenses.

There has been some cheating going on,horse trading for stuff I had laying around the garage.And I had just finished up 2 pretty big projects,so there was alot of ,steel wiring,brakeline,etc laying around here.

Some of the parts I bought and didn't use, I sold at a profit,the 4.6 Mustang motor and trans I bought off Racing Junk for 750 and sold for 1800.When I get done I'll post a list of expenses.I still think its been the most fun build I've ever done,the bargin shopping was even kind of fun.


Been scratching on the front fender,and have it pretty much roughed in,sucks now I have to do the other side.A couple coats of high build and the the fender is done.Ron  http://57hemicuda.smugmug.com/galler...08514066_RN8P8


Got a wild hair and cut thr drip rails off tonight.I'm probably stupid for starting this so late in the game,but its the last part on the car that still had rust in it.This is turning out way nicer a car then I originally planned,and it didn't cost anything but time.Georgia is right around the corner Tic-Toc. Ron


Here is the finish product of the drip rail delete.Ron


Started the body work this weekend,have the drip rail smoothed out,and the one quarter roughed in.This is going to be a quick and dirty paint job.Man are those rust pits in the roof deep,I can still see the disco stripes thru the third sand and primer,that roof has been sandblasted!!The color is going to be 2010 Mustang Grabber blue,with the flat black treatment on the hood and fenders.Ron


In between coats of mud,I'm trying to catch up on all the little stuff.Made these plates to go between the cage and the A pillars.Still alot of crap to do and not alot of time.Windsheild comes Tuesday,so the car has to be in color.Its going to be a long weekend.Ron


Yeah,I'm exhausted.My companies busy season is now in full swing,so I'm not getting home until late.I really really wish I had more time,this is a rushed, quick and dirty paint job.In keeping with the budget theme,I'm shooting it with a Harbor Freight $15 paint gun,yes you heard right $15,was going to break out my good gun that I bought to spray my Camaro,but no it is budget crap to the very end.I will spray the thing tonight,and post some pics then.Car is blown completely back apart,I'm not going to get any test miles on the car before Geogia,so if something falls off I don't want to hear any laughing!!


With all the metal work on this car and the 2 weeks from metal work to paint with only my two hands to scratch on it,it turned out amazingly well.$15 gun worked flawlessly,due to rushed nature of the bodywork,I'm sure it will sink to some degree,but I'm happy with it.Still alot to do,have to throw out a special thanks to my buddy Kemp,showed up last night and really helped me out.

I've used Spraymask before,but it was harder then ususal to get off the brakes.


The more I break up the blue the more I like it.I hope the paint doesn't sink too bad,because I really don't feel like buffing it and I like it how it is {I guess time will tell}


Yeah its a 1/4" round bar formed to the wheel opening.The sun popped out for the first time in what seems like two weeks.Took these outside shots


Got the doors painted and hung,couldn't wait for the sun to come out,but it brought all the bugs out.Had to keep tweesers in my pocket to pick the bugs out while I was painting.Ron


Shot the the fenders and the flat black,turned out pretty good.


The car still isn't wired,and I broke the transmission {lost 2nd gear}down in GA.but it performed pretty well.I think I'm going to put a TKO600 that was slated to go in my Camaro because I was having so much trouble keeping up with Payton's 6 speed Camaro on the highway.


Pulled the car in to start on the transmission.I will probably stick the TKO 600 which belongs in my Camaro in it for now,while I search for a cheap Jerico.I probably ought to stick the whole L92 big cammed 6.0 in there all at the same time,but I don't have the time before Motor State.Still no wiring or gauges in the car,but I've put quite a few miles on it locally.It is really a blast to drive,the most predictable,stable car I've ever driven.

Chris Hecht (HECHTROD) wrote an article on this car, pretty cool stuff. Here is a link:



All that thrashing on the car,left my wife alot of time to develop a honey due list that a team of well skilled craftsmen would run from.So I've been catching at home.I got the trans in tonight,drove it for the first time,feels good,shifts like butter compared to the Muncie, and the overdrive is a dream.I was going to put the L92 motor ,but it has a 4bbl efi type intake and will take some time to get the tune right,and most of all they backordered a couple of parts I needed to complete the install.I'm going to finish the wiring,get the bugs out of the brakes,and put it on the trailer for Michigan.(sounds fimiliar) Ron

No magazines yet.I would like to have a little more time to clean up some of the panel adjustments and wet sand and reclear the thing.When I do the engine swap I'll do under the hood alot nicer, but for this summer I'm just going to beat the crap out of the thing.You wouldn't believe how many paint chips are on this thing already,1500 miles on an open trailer (never good).I really love the thing though,I don't worry about anything.Just drive the wheels off it, just as I planned.Ron


I think this was the video Norm was talking about,there is a bunch of them in the Racing events section under Peach State Motor Challenge.  



Haven't had 5 minutes to look at this car,have been researching a solution to the braking issues. Just bought this set of Baer 15" rotor,6 piston Alcon built brakes off the Corvette Forum.New in the box for $1500.I have to come up with something for the back,and order wheels (CCW'S I guess).I guess the budget goes out the window when you really want to be competitive. Ron


I guess I never posted it here,but when I was at Gingerman raceway at the Motorstate Challenge my brakes went away after about 8 laps and I almost crashed it. I never really put any importance on brakes before, well I do now!! To be honest , on a road course the brakes are as important,if not more important then horsepower(never thought I'd say that).I've tried to come up with budget answers to really expensive problems,but there is no getting around the lack of wheel /brake clearance.Scored the Baer brakes on the Vette Forum,but have to order different wheels to make them fit, $2900 worth of wheels. Moral of the story is, if you want run with the cool cars you have to drop some coin. I should still be under $15K (triple the original budget)but this should make the car at least somewhat competitive.Now all I need to do is make the driver more competitve,I have no experience on the road course and almost none in Auto X,but they were so fun, I can't wait to do them again,with a little practice and pointer from some of the fast guys,the car will hopefully get up to its potential. Ron


CCW wheels came in today,test fitting them over the 15" brakes.The CCW guys said the 18x11 front wheels would clear everything,but they do appear to touch the control arms at full lock.They clear the brakes by a mile though.I'll mount the tires tomorrow. Ron


Amen brother.The car has floated around $9000 until the brake dilema.Just to upgrade the brakes required different wheels,Wheels- $2900,I should be able to offset that by selling the old ones.I really ended up getting the 15" front brakes for $1400,the guy gave me a rebate because the one rotor was crusty,the rear brakes are Baer 14"- 6 piston at $1670. So no it was $6000 budget brakes.I can offset that also by selling the old ones. I knew once the car was built, I'd make some upgrades,I didn't think they be so quick and costly though.

Long story short,I just tripled the original budget minus about $1500 I'll probably get for the old wheels and brakes.Handling of the car has been phenomenal,power-respectable but not great,the only weak spot was the brakes,which should be excellent now.I'm hoping this upgrade will balance the car, and make it alot more competitive.Once I get the rest of the bugs out,I really want to do more on the road courses(that was a ball). Ron

Someone wanted weights on the new wheels. The 11" are 22lbs and the 13" are 26 lbs. I'll weigh the old ones once the tires are off them. Ron


Got the car pushed out for a few picks.Got the grill in it the thing ,not sure if I like it or not.Still need to paint the hood. Ron


Here is the a list of the build pics


New back brakes came in today,14" Baers nice quality peices,but what a nightmare to install.If you are in the mist of narrowing or ordering a new rear,be sure to order the axles with the extra hole,for installing bolts(usually no extra charge,but you have to ask for it) Without that hole you can't install the E-brake without pressing the bearings off.And look at the housing ends to be sure they have the flat spots ground in them where the bolts go though.Mine did not have these flat spots,so the housing had to be clearanced so the bolt would clear.If these things would have been done on my rear it would have been an eay install. Ron


After I desided what parts I was using,(C5 front/truck arm rear)I did set down with a ruler and a peice of graph paper and design it.I did make some mistakes along the way,if you remember all the ride height issues I had when the body got set on.Had to pull the chassis back out of the car, and lower the front frame horns 3 inches.(It looked good on paper,sure didn't in reality).

As far as the truck arms go ,they probably slope at roughly 10 degrees down to the back,depending on the ride height.You'd never see it because of how low the car sets. Ron


While I'm waiting for my front wheels to get back from CCW,started cleaning up some loose ends. The side scoops kept filling full of gravel when I drove the car,so I desided to make some grills.Got the stainless mesh from Motorstate Dist. for $10, the rest was scrap.Had to make a wooden buck to shape the mesh,and tig together some scrap aluminum as a frame to go behind it (I didn't want any exposed screws).Kinda a pain in the but,but what isn't? I still have to spray the inside of the opening flat black. Ron

I counter sunk screws from behind to sandwich mesh to the frame,and screwed the frame to the body from the inside the car.I powder coated the center of the frame flat black so you couldn't see it,and the outside of the frame silver.The pics still show the zip ties that I was using as handles for installing them into place.Ron


T1 Corvette sway bar came in today,had no idea how big it was.Its hollow but measures about 1.5 inches,the contrast with the old one is giant.The front wheels came in,but CCW forgot to send my tires back with them,ARGH,feels like I'll never drive this thing again.Ron



Got home about 1 am this morning,just woke up and unloaded the car.Thought I would snap this shot of my weekend fun.Looks like a rod bolt broke under extreme duress.Why didn't I take up golf??


Thanks John, I bought this pic from one of the companies in the Smoky mountains as we were coming back at RTTH,best pick I've ever seen of the car,it actually doesn't look like that big of a peice of crap.Goes to show you that if you move quickly the flaws don't show.


Pulled the engine tonight,wow what a mess.Looks like a rod bolt broke,can't imagine why,I was only on the rev limiter for half the track.I see 3:54 gears in my future.
Both rods on the same journal snapped off,windage tray looks a little like my front fenders when I started hammering on them.Timing chain broke,not much left there.Time to start scrounging parts. Ron


Someone just sent me this from Motorstate.First time I've seen it

Thanks guys,but I'm not sure what I'm doing,its almost as bad as when I started the project,still snooping around. Ron


Just drug the Camaro out, but had to take one last pic before its winter hybrination.


Stang TV did an article on this car, I think its also on Streetlegal TV



Scored an engine for my car last night.Got an ls7 shortblock with 2,700 miles off LS1 Tech for $3200,drove all the way Pittsburg last night in the driving rain, only to find the rest of the engine also for sale. Ended up getting the whole engine minus throttle body, oil pan ,and pump for just over 5k,I did sell my old wheels for to offset the cost a little bit,so my new title needs to be $19000 Budget Mustang. Ron


Alot of people said it wouldn't work for AutoX or road racing.I really like it, the car seems to stay flat in the corners and the ride is still pretty good. Once I get the bugs out of the rest of the car, it should be pretty competitive. Ron


Started assembly of my LS7 tonight,cried like a girl about paying $200 for ARP rod bolts,especially when I saw how small they were. The ARP's are giant compared to the GM pieces,as long as I don't have a repeat of RTTH's it was worth it.

Short block only had 2900 miles but after installing the new cam, noticed the chain was kind of loose, should be able to pick one up tomorrow, and have the long lock completely assembled.

Check out the bore difference compared to an LS1 piston.


The car got rushed together last year for the PSMC, and just never looked back, alot of unfinished peices. To be truthful, I never really thought this car was clean enough to be magazine worthy, its a 20 footer.

Maybe this year I'll clean up some loose ends, so it doesn't have that bucket of bolts, duct tape look, and see if any Mags are interested. Ron

Just read the article. They are calling us out! I think there are several cool cars on this site that were built on budgets.

This Mustang is kind of an odd ball, due to the fact that the whole build was based around the budget. I was kind of was getting off on the 95 cent bids I was winning on Ebay. Not my normal behavior, I usually am the first to pick up the phone and order what I need. I do really kind of enjoy the fabrication, so all that was a labor of love. LOL

Once the cars first event deadline started getting close, I went back to my old wicked ways, and started ordering away. The finished car ended up at 9K, alot more then it needed to be.

The upgrades since then have been good deals for the quality of parts installed (Baer,CCW,LS7),but by no means budget. When the car gets put back together in the next couple weeks, I'll have to send them something, just to show that you don't have to drop 100K to drive a Pro Touring car. Ron


Finally finishing up this Jeep conversion for my kid. Didn't want too much power so I put an EFI 4.3, Turbo 400, Dana 300, and 2 Dana 44 rears. Just bent up the front bumper, and am finishing up the cage. After this weekend I will hit the Mustang hot and heavy. Ron


Started assembling some of the subassemblies while I'm waiting for some other parts to come in. Got the intake powder coated and put together tonight.

Could not find a 24x=58x control converter anyware, so I'm going to have to change the reluctor ring on the crank. Waiting on the alignment tool to come in so we can assemble the shortblock.


Got home from work early today,and desided to dig into this ls7. Needed to change the reluctor wheel to a 24 count, because I couldn't find a translator.

Used the poor mans main cap puller to pull caps, but i did buy the Goodman Reluctor ring installer. Had to heat the reluctor to 450 degrees in my powder coat oven, but it went on like butter.

Can't deside what color to paint it though. I'm either going to be true to the engines heritage, and paint it orange using the Chevrolet valve covers, or paint it Ford blue and run 351 Cleavland black wrinkle valve covers.

Will be running the Nascar carbon fiber air cleaner, won't set as high as it does in the pics (have it spaced to clear the linkage). Will use differnt linkage on car.


Got the engine painted,should test fit it tonight for dry sump etc. Can't wait to get this thing fired up.


Set the motor in tonight, and can't find the room for the dry sump tank, thought of every possible location, and there just isn't the room.

I think I'm going to build a custom tank. Mocked one up out of cardboard to fit behind the radiator.(the only place that it will fit).

The radiator sets at a 45 degree angle, so the pusher fans kind of push the hot air at the ground. If I put a baffle between the two to divert the air off the tank. Can anyone think of anything else that may be an issue with this set up?

The tank will require alot of baffles and bungs, but you I can put them where I want, and it kind of fits the car.


Well I figured out how to make the tank fit ,change everything. It does seem the round tanks are the way to go, and I got that one off ebay for $40. The problem was the roll bar down bars didn't leave room any where for that tank.

I desided to change all the down bars, and recess the tank into the firewall. I'm going to arrange the bars so that I can eliminate the core support all together, should save at least 100 lbs. I figure the tank,oil, and lines are probably 60 lbs.,so I should still be able to shed a few lbs.

Worked out pretty well, the tank fit good in that location, the fitting point right where I need them, and the fill,dip stick and drain are still easily accessible. I will tig a fin on each side of the tank, and bolt it directly to the firewall.  

Here are some pics of the firewall being butchered. Its funny I watch Rupps build thread all the time, and his Penny pics never look so primal. Ron


Got the tank jacket built and welded in tonight. Not looking forward to the firewall clean and paint. Ron


Got the engine set down in tonight. Can't get over how much higher this set up sets in the chassis, the carb spacer will probably have to be adjusted to get the hood to close. Will be kind of cool that the air cleaner element will be seen from the drivers seat.

The dry sump set up is a pita, but turned out pretty clean. I still have to finsh tigging the front structure, make some hood hinges, and get the thing tuned. Can't wait to drive the thing. Ron


It was either that or red at my parts store yesterday, it won't look bad once I route the stuff, and zip tie it all down.

I love to contrast my build pics compared to Rupp's, his look like they were done in a studio, everything is spotless. Mine, not so much. Ron


Got the new down bars bent and tigged in. Had to swing the bars around the oil tank etc. Still need to figure out some hood hinges though.


Got the new style hinges built,they are about as simple as they could be. Will put some kind of top on the hinge arm to make the cowl smooth.Tied the cowl tabs to the cage for strength. Ron


Got the rest of the chromoly bent and welded, have all the radiator, coil ,and fender mounts on it. Kind of looks like a trophy truck, just have to make the lower radiator mounts, and fiinally start this thing. Ron


Here is the front structure unbolted, on its way to powder coating. Its hard to beleive that with all that tubing, the chromoly structure is still 51 lbs less then the mild steel, reverse hood core support. You got to love chromoly, all except for the fact that it takes FOREVER to tig it all together.

Kind of cool that I was able to put trailering tabs that are hidden, and poke out of the bottom of the grill, so I don't have to dirty up the back of any more shirts putting the cart on the trailer, added about 4 lbs, but it was worth it. Ron


Just picked up the front end and my kids Jeep bumper, from the coater. Hope I'm not sorry I did the bars in body color, but I'm sick of the black. Hope to finally fire up tonight. Ron


Mothers day has me a little backed up, but got the front end on, and ready to fire, color is pretty close. My fuel rails are leaking like a sieve, so I've now got to figure that out before I can start it. Work is swamped so I'm not getting home from work till 8pm most nights, and can't get much wrench time in. Sooner or later I'll drive it again. Ron


As mild as the old set up sounded, this sounds just nasty. The 4bbl throttle body acts just like a carb with its progressive linkage, i think it will be easy to bring out soft at the drag strip. Still looks like a trophy truck though. Ron


I'll be there, but this thing is killing. Took it for its maiden voyage the rear caliper mounting allen bolt heads snapped off,caliper came off and got into the wheel, go figure, worked fine last year when I parked it.

Fixed that and can't get the oil tank to stop leaking, have pulled the front clip off two times to fix it, seemed to be fine until I put the front end back on, and it ran a bit. Its a minor leak, but man its pissing me off.

The air cleaner is hitting the hood. So, the front clip is half assed bolted on, because I will have to pull it back off when I get back home.

When it fights you that bad, some times you need to walk away. I
need to get this tune done, so I'll definitely be there. See you tomorrow. Ron


First of all, I want to say thanks for all your help Brett. I know I haven't given you an easy one to tune yet, and you have never let me down.  

The car laid down 573.7 Hp @ 6150, and 520 ft lbs @ 5450. needless to say I'm very pleased. Brett and I think the dyno was a bit generous, but the seat of the pants impressions are pretty impressive.

With my old $300 LS1, the car at full tilt could never get to the ragged edge, wasn't at all scary. That sure has changed, the car is always on the ragged edge now, a bit stupid truthfully. Like always in about two weeks time, I'll get used to it, and want to go faster.

Kind of funny, spent 9k to build the car, the upgrades since then have probably totaled 13K. 22K is a far cry from the inital 5K budget.

Still have a pile of things to fix and finish, but that is one big hurdle behind me, thanks again Brett. Ron


Hood is rubbing the hell out of that giant air cleaner. Pulled the hood off tonight, and cut slots in it. Will reshape to fit over the air cleaner, then fiberglass it all back together. Like I've always said, make the body fit the car, not the car fit the body.

The oil tank just won't stop leaking, I guess I'll tig the bung closed , and weld in a second one. What a pain.


Sadly, this cell phone pic is the only dyno pic I got. Did I mention it made 573 RWHP. LOL


FINALLY!, got all the oil leak stopped. The oil tank which I got off Ebay,had a hairline crack in it which I could not find, only leaked when it got hot. Was hoping to have the new grill and front bumper made before Motorstate, but it looks like thats not going to happen. This is turning into the one step forward and two steps back project. Ron


Now that the mechanics seem to be working, I can look at cleaning up some of the appearance stuff. I started fiberglassing the hood back together tonight, hoping to add a little length to the back, and of course some height to the middle. Hope to have it in color by the weekend. Debating on whether to start cutting on the front nose/bumper after the hood, or wait till after Motorstate.


Made some aluminum panels to keep the road crud off the shiney new engine. Next thing you know this thing will have cup holders. Ron


Pulled the car in tonight to start the gear swap. My old Dodge Power Wagon had mismatched rears in it,4:10's in the front and 3:54's in the rear, so I pulled the rear gears out to stick in the Mustang. I'll put the 4:10's back in the old Dodge after Motorstate (everything is a project!)

Found the bearing and retainer ring on the Moser axles had moved about 1/16",I guess from the side loads, I think I'll replace them and tack the ring to the axle with the tig.



Got to cruise the car a bit with the 3:54 gears, really feels alot different. As expected, not near as snappy out of the hole, but way nicer on the big end. Should be better for AutoX and the road courses, don't know if it will help or hurt at the drags.

Really need to start smearing some mud on the hood,haven't touched it since I started fiberglassing it back together. Once again, I'll be still bolting parts on as it goes on the trailer for Motorstate


You will have to ask Bill for the totals. Out of 80 cars, I made it to the sweet 16 shoot out on the road course, and finished 8th. On the AutoX, I thought I heard I was 6th, but I'm not sure. I'm pretty happy because of my lack of seat time in the car, and the fact that there were some crazy fast stuff there.I did beat Jackass in the AutoX which made me happy,VERY VERY competitive feild.  

My inexperience really held me back. Finch and I were racing at one point, and I quickly found out that driving experience trumps horsepower. I had more Hp then he did, but he carried so much more speed out of the turns that he would just sling shot past me coming out of the turn, I would chase him down on the straights, but he just got further and further away.(Finch can drive). I really don't know what I'm doing, but man was it fun. Ron

Buddy P sent me this,trying to figure how to post his video


Car is once again sidelined for some braking issues, so I desided to finish the lower grill screen, and build one for the upper. Turned out pretty nice, but I'm not sure if I like it. Still have to paint the hood,and hook up the fuel pressure gauge before next weekend. Ron

I really hate this fiberglass nose,bumper. Fitment is terrible, and it just doesn't look right. I'm thinking of constructing a new one, alittle boxier with an integral splitter. I've got something pictured in my head that I think would improve the front of the car , I'm just way too busy right now to start on it.

Once I get this car outside and gander at it for a while I'll probably paint the grill black. It kind of hard to tell how I will like it until I get it outside. Ron


What about clear (or colored) plexi screwed over it covering the opening with some hella big driving lights behind it?

Kinda like this but in the center. (it goes with your Vette engine for crying out loud!!)

Got back from VIR about midnight last night, that was a long HOT weekend. Good seeing Mike Holleman, Mark Steilow, and Jake Parrott, and watching there cars scream around that huge track. It was also great seeing Payton, and meeting his two sons Dillon and Hunter and letting them shift my car running back between the room and the paddock(huge facility)

Did 3- 30 minutes sessions Saturday and 3 on Sunday. The Mustang performed flawlessly, man is that a fast track. According to the rpm-speed calculator I was doing somewhere between 145-150 mph along the back straight. The thing was pretty stable at speed, got alittle floaty, but I'm real happy with the car. Can't wait till to get back out there. I bought some pics from one of those photography services, I'll post some as soon as I get the disc. Ron


Got a chance to scale this car again today. Was wondering how bad the car had gotten with the new dry sump, and all that aluminum work I did in the front. I did replace all the mild steel bars with chromoly,and ditched the front flip hood, which saved 52 lbs. Car weighed in at 3201 lbs. - 3388 lbs. with me in it.

Amazing 50/50 distribution, with me in it.Thinking about moving the battery off the right rear, more to the center of the car, and it would be perfect.
LF-864 lbs. RF-790 lbs.
LR-864 lbs. RR-870 lbs.


Pics came in today


Yeah Robert, Mike was joking that the only thing that would make it better would be if his car was in front. I might get this pic blown up.


Always hated the nose on this car, thought I would try something different. Cobbled this together with cardboard and blue painters tape, figured I would try the most simple first. It would have a splitter attached to the bottom of it. What do you think? seems a little boring to me. I'll try another style tomorrow, need to find one I like, because I will still have to make a mold,then the part out of fiberglass.


Thanks for the input guys, I think I've got the design nailed down and will weld up the peices this weekend. Alot of work for such a small change, but I do think it will look better. Was trying to find a fiberglass company to produce the mold, but they are all 6 to 8 weeks out, so once again I guess I'll be producing the part myself. I don't think there is one off the shelf peice in this car that hasn't had to be chopped , cut or reshaped in some way.
Comparison pics:


My mind keeps changing like this, I'm going to have to grow a vigina. Got the top of the bumper built, but I think I'm going to change the ends and put the splitter in the across the bottom, something like this.


Been crazy busy at work, haven't had much time for my nose job. Got this version tacked together,can't deside what the opening shape should be.

The splitter will attach to the bottom, the brake and radiator ducts will be in that opening.


Its all mute for us regular guys any way, to build a one off part in carbon would cost more then I'd be willing to pay. A buddy gave me a roll of glass matting, so I shouldn't have more then $150 in the thing.

Got most of the sculpting done, have to refit it to the car again, prime it a couple more times, and start spraying gelcoat, and laying fiberglass. I'll let you know how bad it is. Ron


I will probably use 2 layers for the part, and 10 or so to make the mold.


Got the gelcoat and the first coat of glass on this morning. Waxed the fabricated part multiple times, and sprayed it with PVA mold release, I hope it comes apart.


Popped the mold off of the plug this morning. Looks pretty good, just as I was told ,the PVA peeled off of there like a condom. A little sanding, and wax, and I'll start laying up the part.

Built a stand to hold it and stiffen the mold, will start making the bumper tomorrow.


Popped the bumper out of the mold tonight, have to clean up the edges and fit to the car again. Man do I have alot to do before it goes to Tenn.

As good as the mold turned out, the parts built on the outside of a part are much easier then the parts on the inside. I will need to buy some smaller fiberglass rollers for the next one I build.Was kind of a bi#ch working the matting in on those tight radius areas.

Yeah, it is higher


Robert Scheitlin just sent me this pic of the stop challenge. Still don't know how these guys get such good pics with the car centered, I always just catch the quarter panel or half the front fender.


Just bought one of the Kilboy pics from the Tale of the Dragon,I remembered buying one last year. Figured it would show the front end contrast pretty well.


Have had a bunch of people emailing, asking for pics of different things. I guess it hasn't been posted in 20 or so pages, but here are the build pics from begining to end



Its funny, everyone always asks if the car was sectioned, because it looks so short. The car is stock as far as the height goes, but the early Mustangs are quite a bit shorter between the roof skin and the rocker, then a Camaro. If you look at the height of the door,its probably 3 inches shorter then a 69 Camaro door.

This causes head room problems with taller passengers. The roll cage is as high and tight to the roof as possible. When I put the seats in the car, and drove it a bit, I took the drivers seat and laid it back which fixed the head room issues for me. David and Robert both noticed the lack of head room on the passenger side,they were the first to mention it, I guess I will have to lay that seat back as well. Payton drove my Mustang in Tenn., with me in the passenger seat. The seat is way to upright, kind of uncomfortable, never been on that side of the car.

You can the height difference between Payton amd my cars


I'm not talking about becoming a pleasure cruiser. Just some sound deadening and something on the floor and door panels. The Kirkeys are pretty comfortable along with the ride, but the noise level has your ears ringing after an hour or so.


Car hasn't been out for a long cruise since RTTH, took it out Saturday for about 150 mile run. While running at 50mph in heavy traffic, I managed to clip a deer. It was hit several times before I got into it, and was strattled by most of the traffic in front of me. My new splitter was not so lucky, it managed to knife off about 3" of meat along the whole body, and throw it into my fans. When I opened the hood, it looked like Nightmare on Elm St., took an hour to hose it all out of there. The new nose and splitter fared pretty well, I guess it was attached alot better then I thought. Ron


Someone just sent me a couple pics from earlier this year, just had to post this one.


I don't know if its worth $5000, but I ended up with $9000 in the initial build, and about 23K, after multiple failures. It did turn out alot nicer then I origially invisioned though.

Haven't really touched the car sice RTTH's, so I started finishing up a few things. I'm getting ready to start on a new project, so I figured I better finish this one before I get started on something else. Got the beginings of the bumper bottom/brake ducts started, was able to use my fiberglass mold plug to shape off of (kind of nice not to be laying on my back shaping metal).


Pulled the car out of the garage to clean up. I was on level ground, and was seriously stuck. I guess 335 KDW's were not designed for the snow.


The new transmission just came in for the car. Never driven one of these clutchless transmissions before, but I can't wait to bang some gears. I think I'll miss the overdrive though.


Finally got the door panels made and on, super plush as usual. I was going to roll some beads in them, but if I one day want to put real interior in it, it would be harder for the interior guy. I'll try and get the new hubs in this weekend, and hope it cures my knockback issues, if not this may get a full floater in it.


Installing brake ducts, ZR1 hubs, and Hardbar hardware. Hoping it helps with the brake knockback. Crazy how heat from the rotor burned the boot off the tierod. Once all this is installed I will have to build the air intakes in the splitter.


Made a couple of heat sheilds on the brake duct to protect the tie rod and lower ball joint, and a support brace to keep the duct from cracking. Had to oval the tubing for tire clearance,and I still havent made the front ducts yet. I can't beleive LG doesn't make the ducts with the sheilds as part of the backing plate.


Got the trans out, and once again the hydraulic throw out bearing came apart. I've had enough of that set up, everytime the trans comes out, I have to buy a new throw out bearing. I stepped to a Quicktime blowproof bellhousing, and a bell mounted throwout. Looks like I'm going to have to run some offset dowels after indicating it. The trans doesn't touch the throwout on its way in or out.

On a side note, while up on the lift I found the front tires so flat spotted that they are totally junk. Thank's to Bill Howell and the contingency program, BFG is buying me a new set.



I could not get the proper shim with the LS7 clutch with this setup, I was forced to fabricate a bellhouing shim to fit between the bell and the block. The nice part about this setup is, the trans can go in and out without touching the throwout bearing.


Finally getting this car back together. Got the clutchless 4 speed in, cut the headers up, shortened them to give the car a little more ground clearance, and got most of the the air dam, fabbed up for the brake ducts. Used turbo V band clamps to attach the exhaust to the header. Installed stainless flex tubes, and used 409 stainless for the exhaust, Hoping it cuts down on the rattling that the exhaust used to do.

Special shout out to my buddy Frank for use of his lift,and help tigging up the exhaust.

Driving impressions: Thought the the trans would be hard to shift, its funny, when you hammer the throttle, lift for a second, the trans pulls itself into the next gear. I absolutely love it. Its a little noisey, but its a hoot to drive. Shifts as faster then any automatic I've ever driven. Exhaust seems to be rattle free, at least so far. Ron


The brake duct/lower grill isn't finished yet, finished trimming, and welding tonight.

The exhaust had this resination at about 3000 rpm, I assume it was from the way I mounted the mufflers. Everything was in such tight quarters(as I'm sure your real familiar with) that when I mounted the mufflers, I welded three little mounting tabs to the frame, and 3 to mufflers. I used the little exhaust hangers that look almost like a shock bushing. I guess it was kinda rigid, because the front bushing kind fell apart, and started this ratting, that drove me up the wall. I'm hoping the flex in there will correct this issue. Only time will tell.


Finally finished the lower grill, brake ducts. Put the race mesh in the center to match the grill, the turned out OK, but I wish I could produce these parts out of carbon fiber, would be alot lighter.


Watching that show last night motivated me to finish this lower grill/brake ducts. I kind of liked the thing without the splitter, but its growing on me with it. If the weather holds out, I plan on hitting the drag strip next Sat., interested to see what kind of quarter mile times this thing runs.


Had a very good day at the drag strip. Me and a buddy drove our cars to the track, its still pretty cold here so it wasn't real crowded. We both made about twenty passes, I was a little worried about the clutchless 4 speed, beacause this was kind of its maiden voyage. It took a few passes to master, man is it a hoot to drive.

The track was cold, so the Bfg's spun through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears. At one point, because of the violent nature of the trans, I broke loose pulling 4th gear and got a little close to the wall. Still managed to run a 10.94 @ 132 mph. If I had a set of drag radials, I think the car had a 10.4 in it. Nobody broke, everybody ran good, a really fun outing.

A buddy took a bunch of video, as soon as he gets it up, I'll post it. Ron


My buddy Mark took these pics and the video

They asked that I didn't come back until I get some side glass or window nets.
Another video


I've aligned the front end on this car several times. The adjuster cams keep moving, I guess from leaning on it so hard. The last two events last year were run with the front end way out of wack. I've made up these plates to take the place of the cams, after I line it up again, I'll punch the holes in them, should cure the problem.


This is turning into the War and Peace of threads, the thread that never ends.

It was a crazy weekend, I'm still kind of in a funk. While on the road course at RTTS, the engine in the Mustang let go. While trying to lay down a decent time, in one of the faster parts of the course the engine locked up, knocking the side out of the block, laying 3 gallons of oil on to the track, and putting me into the wall.

While on the cruise Friday, the breather puked a bunch of oil out, only did it once, but it should have given me a heads up. Saturday while beating on it, it seemed a little down on power, but ran OK. When time trialing on the road course at about 6500rpm / 110 mph, in a long sweeping turn the thing let go.

Pulled the engine this morning, it appears #5 piston broke right at the ring land, throwing the rod thru the side of the cylinder. Looks like the heads made it though. I remember the guy I bought the engine from, saying he squeezed several times, maybe that weak'nd it,maybe not. I still want to have some fun this summer, so I guess I'll have to figure some things out.

The turn before it let go, I heard a vibration,I checked the guages, oil pressure was up, taching around 6500 in third gear. I was leaning forward listening for the vibration when the engine locked up. It locked the rear wheels, because I was partially through the turn, the car went into a spin. Once the rear wheels hit the 3 gallons of oil,and antifreeze, I was just along for the ride. I hit the wall backwards, its funny all was thinking was, I hope the block lived. Of course it didn't.

Looking at the car today,the chassis was so ridgid, the quarter hit so hard it has the perfect shape of the guardrail, but the crossmembers kept it off the frame. Probably a weeks work on the sheetmetal, its the engine that breaks my heart.

It was a dry sump Andrew, it actually broke a piston, sending the rod through the block (split right at the ring land). I bought the engine from a guy who was racing it on nos, that may have lead to its demise, I've only driven the car in angry mode, who knows?


Jake, and Herb just sent me a pile of pics


I'm pretty sure it will be LS powered, once again to get to the power level that I had, I'd have to spend way too much to go Ford.

I did start ripping off some old sheetmetal, used the hillbilly frame machine(a Jeep with a winch) to pull the metal around. Can't get over how ridgid the chassis was and how straight it kept the car. I'm convinced that a stock bodied Mustang would have blown the back window out, and been shaped like a taco. I guess its english wheel time.


I took 4" 1/4 wall tubing and ovalled it in the press, and welded it in the 2x4 box tubing. The way the truck arm suspension runs, the frame ends up doubled at that section, made it a little hard to fit mufflers though.


Got most of the metal formed and fitted, I'm so used to looking at this car, I forgot how far from stock it really is. Had to stretch and roll the quarters, and add several inches of material. Hopefully I get the welding finished this week, and start smearing mud.


There must be something wrong with me, but I always thought this car looked like it had a flabby butt. Always wanted to clean the lines up on the rear of the car. So while I'm fixing the quarter, I reshaped it to kind of give it a more athletic as$, the only problem is that it required cutting the bottom off the good quarter to give it the same shape. Plus, I will have to make a new more streamline splash panel. The sad part is 99% of people won't even see the difference.


The rear of the car has a belly pan on it, I wanted the quarters to flow right into that bellypan. Which left the quarter higher in the front then in the back, I will have to fab a new pan to work with shape of the new quarters. You can see the difference in the pics.



Busy season at work, working 12 hour days, haven't had 5 minutes to touch this poor car. Finally got the engine together and set in this weekend, no more Ford blue paint (just bad mojo). Looks like I will probably be at Motorstate in primer.



Redid alot of the dry sump stuff, which required adding a remote filter, and changing all of my oil lines. Alot of the fitting and ends were special order which has drug this whole process out alot longer then I was hoping. Finally fired the new engine last night only to find two quarts of oil on the shop floor. Appears one of the factory crimped ends on one of the lines is leaking like crazy, and will have to be replaced. 

Everyone said to just use the push lock hose, that stuff just gives me the willies on oil or fuel. I used teflon lined, full bore braded, with factory crimped type ends because I was affraid of blowing an oil line. Which now kind of screwed me, because this car needs to be on the trailer Thurs, heading to Motorstate. I can't put the rest of the car together beause of the location of this line, and I still have to order a new line. Can't really fire the engine to break it in, so I'll be in Michigan with an untested, primered POS, that probably has 2 break in miles on it right before it goes on the trailer.

I just have to laugh, $5000 budget my as$. The new ARE oil pan requires way more lines then my old set up, this thing has gotten way too exotic, from under the car it looks like a braided line snake pit. It turned out to be a very sanitary installation, but with all those lines I was bound to have one of the fittings leak. Sorry, I just needed to vent, and my wife just doesn't get it.


Got the oil line today, and finally got to put a few miles on it. Seems to run pretty good, and be leak free, at least for now. The more I look at the roughed in body work, the rougher it looks, but I'll take care of that when I get back from Michigan. Its funny, I've got the new belly pan made for under the fuel tank, but I don't want to install it until I have the new splash panel fabricated. I love when I open the trunk, and look at the ground its very Flintstones.


I really didn't post anything about it because it was kind of embarasing, but on my first qualifying run the car overheated (for sum reason the fans didn't come on) so I had to come in early. I jumped out the fan relays, the fans came on OK. So I propped the hood up a couple inches to let the heat out, and ran the car around the pits about 3 mph. a gust of wind came up and took the hood up and the windsheild out. I only got one qualifying run, everyone else got four. The car felt strong, it would have been much faster after the four runs, if I wasn't such a bonehead.

SCCA weren't going to let me autox Sunday until I threatened to kick the windsheild the rest of the way out and go roadster. The SCCA guy didn't know what to say, he finally agree to let me go if I kept the face sheild down.

A smart as$ buddy made these for me when I got home, Herb and Carol got a few good pics of the car before the unfortunate hood pin incedent .


I did post some pics in the Motorstate section of the board. Here are more that Herb & Carol took. There is a before and after shot, the first is from Motorstate 2 years ago. I think it looks more petite then it did, but the belly pan,splash panel and rear bumper aren't installed yet.

Edit:You did mean the cars back side right? I know Mary didn't post those pics of her backside!!


While I was fixing the cowl and windsheild that the hood screwed up, I desided to put some wipers on this car. It seems every event I go to a monsoon seems to follow, hell I had to drive in Michigan at 80 mph, with my fist holding the winsheild from falling in my lap, in driving rain, trying not to rearend Steevo.

The problem was that the inner cowl section that the wipers attach to was removed off of this car to get the engine back far enough. I ended up using a 2005 Dodge Neon wiper motor and linkage, welded to my roll cage, getting the ratios correct was a pain but it works pretty good.

When I painted the cowl I went body color instead of flat black, because I think I'm going to paint the whole car blue, and put the white GT350 stripes over the top for something different(not sure if I will like it or not, so I think I'll do the stripes in vinyl).


Was looking for some pics of striping for my car, and look what I found. Scroll down a bit



I was thinking more like blue with white stripes, like I said earlier I think I will do the stripes in vinyl just in case I don't like them. Its funny the guy added the back bumper to the car just like I said I was going to do, the only thing is it has my old quarter panels. The vents he put in the front fenders I actualy debated for a long time when I built the fenders, thought it would be too much with the massive rear vents, looks OK though. The pic I think the guy used was the car on the tale of the dragon in Tenn.


If I were to build the Mustang again, I would still build the chassis from scratch, for some reason I just enjoy that part of the build. The mud and paint work, not so much. I would however try alot harder to keep the weight down, and not build such a bulldozer chassis.

The renderings are cool, but for some reason I need to stand back with the sheet metal hanging on the car and ponder for a while. I don't think the rendering of the Mustang would have looked anything like that if I would have tried to explain it to someone. I've seen alot of renderings that were cool as hell, but when the cars were built something got lost in the translation. My brother photoshopped my AMX project with the wheelbase, and flare mods for me. I'll post them up as soon as I start the build thread.


I haven't even touched the car since VIR, but it will be painted by RTTH. I am going to the Grand Prix race here in Baltimore this weekend, then the clock will start running on my mad dash to get the car in color before the 22nd. I still need to make rear bumper brackets, fit the poorly fitting bumper, fabricate the rear splash pan, and sand and paint the whole whole car. No problem, I'm only working 10 hour days at my regular job, sleep is highly over rated anyway. The paint should still be wet when it goes on the trailer for Pigeon Forge. With the amount of abuse the road courses put on paint, I'm not making it too nice, so I won't cry when the thing gets sandblasted at speed.

The glass in the car is glass, the rear window is 45 years old.


Finally got started finishing this car, installing rear bumper, making a rear splash pan. Got the bumper brackets/tie downs made, started the lisence mount which the two small rear splash pans will attach to.

After watching the Ravens complete and total domination of the Steelers, I went ahead and installed the center of the splash pan. Tomorrow I'm hoping to get the sides fabbed. Turned out pretty good, I think the finished product will look much better then the Ford design.


I've been so crazy busy,I think the car Gods don't want this thing painted. Got most of the belly pan made, and one side of the splash pan built. From the rear, the belly pan will have an exposed 2" step in it. I will powder coat it flat black so I don't think it will stand out, but if it does I'll just remove it.


OK, its 11:15 PM car is finally in color.Raining cats and dogs here, alittle haze in clear, fired the heat up hoping it works its way out.Really could have used a couple more days to sand on it to smooth it out, but I had just had enough. So tomorrow I need to reassemble the car, change the oil, load the car and drive 9hrs. to Tenn. Brain damage I tell you. want to send out a special thanks to my buddy Joe for his help tonight, I couldn't have done it without him.


My son in law sent me these pics, this one really shows the new rear sheet metal.


Spent so much time thrashing, getting ready, that I never take the time to contrast the changes. Found a couple of pics that show the differences in the rear.Think it definitely lost the load in the diaper look.


Did some testing the weekend before last. After pulling the swaybar, and shocks, bump stops,changing the front suspension to stock C5. The tires contacted the tops of the fenders blistering the paint. Found it to be much like driving a canoe, swingging from one side to the other. Got seriously spanked by alot of small cars with big slicks. Went from one extreme to another. After talking to everyone who would listen, settled on this 900lbs. front spring, took it out and tried today. Seems way better then it was, stiil have to get the correct shocks, and sway bar, but definitely a step in a right direction.


To be honest, I've only driven it on the street. In combination with the new spring I also installed a Hotchkiss 32mm sway bar, The combo seems way better then what I had, but I still need to get some decent shocks on there. Was working with Brett at Ridetech to figure the best combo for the car, then I got caught up in this AMX project  http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...l-frame/page14. I truely have the attention span of a 3 year old.


This is really weird, have two threads going at once. Started getting this car ready for the new season, put the new higher bumpers on the new Vette Brakes 940lbs front spring to get the car up a bit. Putting the new Ridetech shocks in, these shocks seem sooo much better then what I had. Need to change up some baffling for the oil cooler, and then go back to the rear.


Pecking at a bunch of little things on this car, got the new shocks and swaybar on. Had an overheating issue last year when I was really leaning on it, got to 300 degrees a couple time at VIR. Don't really know why, at 150 mph I'd think the air would just push through and cool OK. Thought maybe the air was bypassing around radiator because the front of the car was wide open. Started filling in these areas with aluminum, what a PITA. Hoping it funnels the air were it belongs.


Get ready for the hate mail.LOL

The GTO headers fit my chassis, in the end I did end up cutting them up and shortening the header at the collector. How they would fit a "REAL MUSTANG" chassis is anybodys guess.


Trying to get all the ducting fabbed. This oil cooler ended up behind the radiator due to the massive 12AN fittings on the cooler, and the difficulty getting the lines to it. Not the ideal setup due to the recycled after radiator air. I desided to build some duct work to plumb some preradiator air into the cooler, trying to get the air in there was truely a challenge. So the lower grill will feed the oil cooler, and brake ducts. Really hoping it makes a difference, and I don't see any 300 degree oil temps this year.


The finished product. What a time consuming pain in the butt.


The tire sizes are 275/35-18 and 335/30-18. The side vents are open to the inside of the car right now, they will attach to the rear end cooler now. Here is the only good pic I can find of them, that Dan took at RTTH.

Hate to wait to the last minute with RTTS in how many days?, so I just order the 9" rear today. After talking to CCW, I desided to run 5/8 studs.

I finished the front suspension stuff Saturday, put the wheels back on, torqued the front wheels to 100ft lbs., and I here a tink sound, and here something rolling around in the wheel, I look in the wheel, and see the head of the high dollar ARP stud. I tightened the lug a little farther, and watch the stud pull right through the wheel. That was a little scary, so I'm thinking of putting 5/8 studs on the front too.


I am still amazed that you can order a custom made rear on Monday, and it can be at my door on Friday. Floater showed up with all the mounts etc., I opted for the back brace due to the shear length of this rear, still alot lighter then the Dana. Will be getting all the brackets dummied up and welded on this weekend, then sending it out for powder coating next week.

The only thing I didn't like about the Moser stuff was 5/8" holes with 1/2" studs on the drive plates. After talking to CCW about the wheels, they said it would be no problem drilling the wheels for 5/8" studs as long as I used 60 degree lug nuts. The 5/8" studs are super tight to the drive plates, in fact I'll have to bang the plates on. I'm now temped to put the 5/8" studs on the front.


Got the brakes mocked up, trying to use the Baer emergency brake set up, and rotor. Used the Moser rotor adapter, attached the Baer rotor to it. Called my buddy Brian Schien to take care of the machine work, as always it turned out excellent. I wish I could say I came up with the idea, but Payton did the same thing on his Camaro. Also thought the 5/8" studs was going to be a PITA, but the CCW's were already drilled to 5/8",strong and easy.



Took my non-full floater brakes, and adapted them to the full floater housing,e-brake and all. Had to cut the center out of the hat, drill it for the floater hub, used the center 5 mounting holes, and the 8 outer holes on the rotor adapter supplied by Moser. Had to make a steel bracket with the big Ford bolt pattern to weld to the housing, which gave the backing plate something to attach to, turned out pretty good.

The rear center section I got has a cooler pump built into it, so I put a deck mounted cooler on the floor that I will plumb the cars side vents into. I also got the Ridetech shocks on, which I think will be a big improvement over what I had.


Got the new 5/8" studs in, still can't beleive the ARP stud head popped while torqueing the wheels (the head is tiny), kind of scary. I think I'll get used to the locker, its just different.


OK, anybody that runs in the American Street Car Series needs to send me cash. It is now a guarantee that any event that I attend, will not have rain or any inclement weather. Because I now have windows and weather stripping, what is this world coming to.


I don't see any reason you couldn't put that setup on a factory core support. It took like 8 hours to fab that thing, getting the angles right is crusial, because the hood has to lift up before it pivots back so it can clear the grill. I remember I made that hood bracing out of an old bed frame, (makes me giggle) what a peice!

The car has changed alot since then, I had alot of fun making something out of nothing . Unfortunatly I'm back to my normal call and order it self, kind of miss the $5000 budget. On a side note, I hadn't looked in a while but this cheesey, low dollar build thread that I thought no one would care about, has almost 400,000 hits. Goes to show you Pro Touring is not all high dollar super shiney show peices.


Finishing up a few things that have been an issue for a while. Under extreme braking, and cornering, the oil from the dry sump tank would slosh up into the oil vent lines, filling the vent tank, then puke out the breather on to the headers. Couldn't find anything that would work, so in true $5000 Budget Mustang fashion, I cut up an old GM air conditioning drier, shaped it into a surge tank with multiple baffles, and fittings. Worked out pretty well, its always nice when you can put the fittings right where you want them. I powder coated it wrinkle black to match the vent tank.


My jig really has no plates for the floater snouts, so I had to make a rig to check it one side at a time. It was kind of a pain, so when the drivers side checked out ok, I just assumed the passenger side would be ok too. You know what they say about when you assume. Moser welded a back brace on that housing which for some reason only pulled on the passenger side. When I went to do a 4 wheel alignment on the car, it was toed out on the passenger side for some reason. Found it right before I left for Motorstate, didn't have time to pull the housing and send it back before the event.

Jay, have you run that car yet? Don't think your beloved GMR floater is without issues. I got to help Chris wrench on Blue Balls GMR floater at Gingerman. It appeared that the hub was machined a little loose for the hub seal. While at speed, the seal fell out oiling down the track, causing the car to get black flagged. Ended up having to use a punch to stake the hub in 4 places to keep the seal in place. Then we noticed that the housing wasn't equipped with any inner axle grease seals?? I think you need to hold your endorsements of a product until you have tested them.


Before this thing goes to Optima, was thinking of changing it up a bit. Not really sure if I will like it or not, but was thinking of loosing the flat black on the hood and tops of the fenders, and going body color with white GT350 style stripes over the top of the car. Does anyone know how to photoshop that in, it sure would save me alot of work if I could look at it first, before laying down any paint. A pic like one of these or any front shot, I truely am clueless when it comes to that stuff. Thanks, Ron


With the sponsor decals it will look pretty racey. The hood and fenders need to be painted anyway, I think I'm going to paint them body color, lay some contact paper over it to see if I like it, if I don't it will only take an hour or two to spray the flat black over it.


Starting to peck away at some of the stupid stuff, that has always bugged me. Trying not to go to SEMA with a car that is so rough around the edges (literally). Ford was kind of odd on the fastbacks, in that they allowed rain water to enter the quarter vents, draining into a rain gutter, down a tube, and through a drain hole in the rocker panel. Of course all that was rotted off of this car, so when it rained it just ran into the car. When there was no windows it didn't matter, but now that the car is pretty tight I figured I'd fix it.

Fabbed up some new rain gutters out of aluminum, installed the drain tube, and installed a drains in the rocker panel. I started to make some aluminum panels to cover all that up, all that little stuff is a PITA, but it is becoming a real car.


Lets see, I built the car originally for $9000, and an unimaginable amount of labor, bardering, and computer time.

Since then I've grenaded 2 engines, working on my 3 trans., 4th rear, 2nd set of wheels, second complete brake package, to be real honest I've lost track.

You need to remember that this car was not built to go racing, it was supposed to be the best pro touring car $5000 could peice together. Almost doubling the original budget it was a bit of a fail. Since then Bill Howell has really built up the RTTH, and the ASCS which has changed alot of peoples focus on how to build there cars.

The car gotten so much more refind since the original build, but has still kept to its original grungy, bare knuckle theme. That fact that this car could get an invite to the Optima Ultmate Street car Invitational really proves that it isn't all about bling. I am so jacked up for this event, knowing that I've never seen the track and probably won't place that well. Just the fact that its been selected to run with the likes of Red Devil, Bad Penny, Jack Ass, Detroit Speed, Finch, etc, etc is very humbling. On the other side of that, by the time I make it to Vegas my head is going to be so big they probably won't let me on the plane.LOL


Finally getting 5 minutes to work on this thing before Optima. Pulled the nose off to fix a few road rash spots, and freshen the paint, you can really see the ducting I did for the oil cooler, and to correct the overheating issues ( worked perfect,temps never exceed 195 ) Going to be a mad bash to get it on the trailer in time, should be thrash to the end. Curt who is hauling my car out, is also hauling the Ring Brothers Mustang, kind of a hilarious contrast, mine will be the homely one.


Have to fix my how low can you go experiment where it ended up scorching the paint on the top of the fenders. Fail!!! the rockers almost scraped the ground when it was set that low.

Trying not to pull any panels, so I don't have to refit everything, hate doing it this way, but I think it will work out best in the end.


next week. Why should this event be any different.


Finally got the car in color again, turned out pretty good, as usual not waiting to the last minute. Wish I would of had a little more time to spruce it up a little nicer, but it will be the shiniest its ever been. Now all I have to do is reassemble it, install the new Baer brakes, reinstall the exhaust, and about 1000 other things before it goes on the trailer Sunday in Pittsburg. I think it heads to Vegas next week, with the Ring brothers Mustang in the same trailer, it will still be a case of beauty and the beast. lol


What can I say, I'm exhausted. Never been to Vegas or Sema, my wife Dawn and I flew in on Sat. and did the Vegas thing which nearly took me broke. Dawn flew out Tues. and Payton King came in, and we walked until we couldn't anymore. I think we may have drank a beer or two in the evenings until we headed to Pahrump friday night.

The 90 mile ride through the desert in total darkness was a trip. No overdrive and 3.89 gears, WOW. Payton and I laughed that this was no way for 2 almost 50 year old guys to spend a Friday night.

The one thing I can't stress enough is when going to something like this, don't change anything on your car. The road course was fun but with no real time to make adjustments, I was sliding the front tires all over the place. I went off couse almost every lap, my last lap I got caught behind the camera car. I was so frustated, and I knew the lap was shot, so I took Jimi's advise ( if you can't fast be spectacular). As I passed the camera car I let it eat on the second to last turn, sliding back and forth several times, I almost lost it.

The autocross should also make the blooper reel, as usual I got lost in the forest on the first lap, I think I was the only one. What an idiot!!

I had never done the speed stop squared, but kept sliding the front tires, blowing the box. I don't think I did that bad though.

There were alot of super nice cars there, I don't think the design judges really got my car, didn't score too well. I guess the lack of interior didn't help, the car was shinier then it has ever been. I don't think I explained it too well, because Payton ragged on me for the rest of the day for not knowing how to sell it.

In all, I had a great time, met alot of cool people, saw some CRAZY stuff, and didn't break anything. A car guys dream week. I am really thankful for the opportunity to do it, and should recover in a couple days.LOL


Just saw these pics on Bangshift, wish I would have taken more pics. We are always so busy at these events. Love the dust all over the tires from all my off road adventures.

Sorry, this is the last one, off the fender bender site.


I'm still completely amazed that this thread is approaching 500,000 hits, that is a 1/2 a million hits on a build that I thought wouldn't show any interest at all. If I would have known I think I would have named it better.LOL Goes to show you that its not always about the money, sometimes its just doing something alittle different. The only thing I can say is build them the way you want them, not the way everyone tells you they should be. In the end, you really need to be digging the car from concept to long after its completed(if they ever are completed). Took this thing for a cruise Saturday, what a blast, I'm still smiling.


I just saw this ad for Run to the Coast for the first time. I don't know who did the art work, but man do they have good taste in cars. I don't know why but I am strangely attracted to this ad, I think I want a poster to hang on the wall.LOL I know its not my car, but hey close enough.


Finally got this clutch pulled apart, kinda weird the pressure plate and flywheel look like they just came out of the box. The disc however is spent, it sheared all the rivets holding it together. Smeared the friction material over the holes, chewed the metal up pretty good.

Not really wanting to run a 6 puck type disc due to the fact that I have driven a lot of drag cars with them, and hate the way that they launch. Called around and found Centerforce the only company to make a regular friction clutch that would handle the Hp levels of this car. Also went with an aluminum flywheel made by Centerforce.

The install was a pain due to the Nascar style hydraulics, getting it shimmed right was a bear. Ended up removing the block spacer that I fabbed when I installed the LS7 clutch. The weight difference is about 14 lbs total between the LS7 clutch and the Centerforce. Driving is a lot different, the car launches as smooth as the LS7 clutch, but revs a lot faster.


With the bellhousing/nascar style hydraulic throwout I'm running, I'm kinda of stuck with a single disc. I could have run an iron puck style single but I hate the street manners. Could change everything out to a Tilton style, but I would be looking at several thousand dollars. In talking to all the different clutch companies, and a couple of transmission manufacturers, the twin setups generate a lot more heat in the trans when used really hard. I'll abuse this Centerforce setup, and we will see how it goes. I'm almost sure this engine will be pulled from this car, be attached to a T56 Magnum, and set down in my AMX when its done. I do think this car will end up with Ford power in it.


Its funny how exaggerated the sides look, but compared to the actual car its dead on.


That is an old picture . I made a custom nose for the car a while ago. You can see the difference here.


Thanks Tom, here are the lap times from 2 years ago and now. Karl's collaboration with Chis was worth 11 seconds or so, way to go Karl. Its funny how the the fast guys got faster, but not near as much as the medium guys.


This poor car has set all winter in the garage accumulating dust. Loved the crazy patterns in the dust made by the local beetles. Pulled it out today washed and took it for a cruise, actually made it to a car show today. Forgot how cool our P/T cars are compared to everything else.


Don't know if anyone else that is running a full floating rear is experiencing the same issues I am. It seems the inner axle seals just won't stop leaking. These rears are unique in the fact that you pack the outer wheel bearings with grease, and seal the gear oil in the center section. They don't want the gear oil getting to the wheel bearings and cleaning the grease out of them. I have replaced the grease seals 3 times, and they just let the oil leak into the wheel bearings constantly.

It was so bad that on my AMX rear I machined the inside of the axle tubes to except Dana 44 front inner axle seals. Figured that is what the OEM did and it should work, but that didn't fix my Mustang. 

On the Mustang I vented the center section, and each individual axle tube thinking they were building pressure blowing past the seals, didn't help. Glued the aluminum seal housing in place thought maybe it was leaking past the O rings, didn't help.

Several calls, and a bunch of investigation later this is what I found. Due to the cambered axles, Nascar uses these funky seals that have the ability to seal even when there is a fair amount of misalignment. It is a dual seal, in which you pack between the two seals with axle grease, installed them today, they seem really nice, will let you know how it goes.  



With all the working on the other car this poor car has been abandoned. Baer sent me a new brake set up before I went to Optima, I never had a chance to adjust anything before it left for Vegas. Car slid all over the track, front tires locked up at every turn. Adjusted the rear bias as much as possible, but still not a lot of rear brake.

While getting ready for Motorstate I decided to check the front to rear brake pressures. The first check, pushing as hard as I could, showed 2100psi front/ 400psi rear. Don't know what they are supposed to be, but I know that's not right.

Decided to ditch the tandem master cylinder with the rear bias adjuster, in favor of a dual master set up. Drilling the holes in the firewall was a real pain, but I did get it done. Made an aluminum cover for that mess, powder coated it, and will assemble it tomorrow.

The original set up definitely never worked considering I've cracked 3 front rotors, and the rears look pristine. This definitely a case of too many irons in the fire, this should have been checked/corrected years ago, just had too much going on. Building the car is easy, sorting it is the hard part.

Made a bunch of calls Andrew, just to find out what others pressures were, and what the percentage differences were. What we have determined is that there is already bias built in to the system because of the piston differences front to back. I'm going to start with a 3/4" masters front and back, and change if need be, after driving it. It has to be better then what I have.


Got the masters in place, will make up the lines tomorrow. This is getting stupid working on two cars at once, and posting crap.


Was just finally uploading some pics on to the computer from Bob's event in Pittsburg. Thought they were cool so I would post a few. Some of the best pics I've seen of this car.


At the Pitt event I took second on the road course, the brakes feel so much better. I can't believe I drove that car that way (and thought it worked ok) for that long. Still tweaking on the alignment a bit trying to get the camber where I'm happy with it. If you look in a couple pics the inside tire is far from flat which I can't think is optimum.

I put the 2 separate masters on the car and started with 3/4f / 3/4/r. After checking the pressures with the balance bar in the middle. 3/4F-3/4R Masters. The pressures were 1050 rear / 950 front. Adjusting the bar I could get it 1200 F/ 800R and then reverse it 1200R/ 800F with just a turn of the knob. It did seem to favor the rear pressure wise, so I may change the rear to 7/8. After changing to 3/4f / 7/8r the with the adjuster in the middle the offsets got worse high in the front low in the rear. Ended up with 7/8f / 3/4r with 1050/1050 on pressures. makes no sense to me, but that is how it ended up.


Just procured this unit to keep the driveway plowed out. Super sexy ride, with 39" tires which come half way up the side glass on the Mustang. Top speed is about 45mph, with wicked flat head power.

t's a 1954 Dodge power Wagon


Just got back from Bill's cruising the Smokies. Car ran flawlessly, event was very fun. Ended up renting a cabin up on the side of the mountain, the peace and tranquility was for sure interrupted. Got more then one nasty look when I fired up and cruised down the mountain early Sunday morning. Every cabin I passed someone had run to the window or front door, to see what the hell was going on.


The frame was home grown, the wheels were made by Speedline. They have long since been discontinued, every once in a while I see a set on Ebay though. Went to post a few frame pics, forgot how elaborate that chassis was, and how much I like build pics. lol


I know its not Pro Touring, figured some guys here might dig it, but I know I posted it here, so I guess I'll finish it here. The old Dodge M37 Power Wagon I bought got the full treatment, Big Block (the wicked flat head wasn't so wicked) 727 auto, NP205 transfer case, and a pair of Dana 60 rears. Humm Vee wheels with run flats that you can shoot with a gun are cool, but my favorite is the dash mounted shifter, out of a 60's dodge motorhome.


Just drug the old girl out to get ready for Midwest Musclecar Challenge. Still love this car after all these years.


Did make it out to Mark Bowlers event, which was awesome, Thanks Mark, and all involved. Haven't had that much fun in a while. Got a few cool pics thought I'd post them up.


Ran the Great Lake Muscle Car challenge over this past weekend took third, but my favorite part of the weekend was Larry Woo and I in the back of the Farrington's Draggon Wagon. We were not belted in the back seat so our weight was shifting from side to side on the autocross course. Sam Farrington wheeled is butt off, as Larry and I bounced around like a couple of bowling balls. The funny part was it was Sam's fastest run for the day, the pic shows the car pulling the front tire as the power is being laid down, and the weight is getting transferred. Fun stuff, thanks Sam for a great ride in the grocery getter.


Just got back from Motorstate, car was once again a hammer, get it out beat on it and put it away.


Just got this pic, really thought it was cool. Don't know how the photographer do it, but I'm glad they do.


Just found this, I had nothing to do putting it together. Condenses the whole build into one You Tube video. Took someone a lot of time to compile...crazy.


Finally on the back side of my garage build, car has a new home. It has been so long since I worked on a car, I wonder if I still have it. Another couple days putting the shop together and I'll be back at it. Stay tuned.


No build thread on the shop, although it took two years, it turned out really well. I'm now cleaning and painting all the funky specialty tools I built stands for. For metal shaping I use railroad track, stainless ball valve innards from a ship, and a bunch of weird things no one would recognize. I used these for years, but I never painted any of these tools. With the new building, I want it all clean, at least it will look nice for a little while.


As soon as I finish moving stuff I will post a little shop tour. I so love the signs etc., unfortunately this is a working garage. Knowing this place will be worked, I'm trying to stay with inexpensive repop stuff.

The foundation in this building is poured concrete, the wall forms had a brick pattern. I sprayed the walls with Rustoleum rusty metal primer, dusted on some beige latex, and sponged it off leaving the old brick look on the walls. I cleared it with some sealer when I was done, really amazing look for $150.


Homemade mufflers are still in the car, along with the wiring job we did in the Tractor Supply parking lot. All the engine management was done right (soldered and heat shrunk) But in my rush to make it to David Sloan's event back in I think 2007, the lighting wiring was done in a parking lot in Georgia and remains the same today. That is on my list to correct though. Ran it at the drag strip several times.

David I will post a little shop tour as soon as I'm finished moving everything in.....good to here from you buddy.


Almost hate to move any projects in


Built this engine 20 years ago, fired it, and let it sit. Tragic......still turns free, tonight's project.....Hemi smoke.


Your Dodge? Wheels are off your Dads truck. Garage is heaven


The building is 2500 sq ft, I tried to think of everything while building it. The blue pole supports a 16" I beam that runs from the wall out 25.5' allowing me to pick a whole truck. I recessed it into the ceiling so it didn't hang down. The I beam has two trollies which will pick up a ton a piece. Funny the pole was originally going to be the corner of the paint booth, but in the end I just can't do body work in this building. I will have to keep body and paint in the old building.


To be honest, it has been so long since I built that chassis I can't find, nor can I remember where I found The C5 blueprints. It may have been in a body shop crash book, but truly can't recall. Ron Sutton is currently helping me on my AMX http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/8...tal-full-frame. He is an excellent resource on suspension geometry, for a very reasonable fee he can design you a suspension layout based on your project needs. A little more aggressive camber gain and ackerman can really help the suspension strategy.

Good luck with the project.