'67 Mustang Coupe by bwkelley76

By diyauto
( 1 )

'67 Mustang Coupe 

Compliments of bwkelley76 @ pro-touring.com


Hello all. Here's some info and pics from my latest project. She's a '67 Mustang coupe that I rescued from a family in Merced, CA. The car is an original California car, San Jose built, C-Code V8/auto car, no rust, no damage anywhere, original black and yellow plates, and said to be a "grandma car" most of its life. The car was mostly original aside from aftermarket wheels and tires (which immediately found their way onto my little parts-go-getter truck), a 5.0 roller longblock conversion (had to redo it as it was done wrong as usual), aftermarket stereo, and of course a cute little feather hanging from the rear-view mirror.  

I realized grandma never put the car out in the rain because the first day I did, the original paint literally washed right off the driver's front fender over night. So next came an unplanned paint job and stripes, and some minor body work along the way. ..and of course with paint comes a huge list of other little things that just need to get done.

The stock 5.0 engine needed a little "pick me up" so I changed that up a bit, ...ported 1970 closed-chamber heads by the geniuses at "Power Heads, E-cam and 1.7 roller rockers, port matched Torker intake, Quick-Fuel SS-650-AN carb, MSD ignition and dizzy. It all woke this sleeping beauty up! She makes impressive power for such a basic engine setup and to-date she runs a very impressive 12.93 1/4 mile on radial road-race tires.  

The interior was already reupholstered for the most part by the previous owner so it got a little cleanup, a new headliner, Custom Auto Sound kick-panels, and a used Grant steering wheel that fits the bill for now. (Has since been changed to a Moto-Lita leather wheel, dash panels and pad have been replaced with new, kick panels, stereo and speakers have been added)

I've added 4-wheel 12.19" Wilwood brakes, narrowed 9" truck rear with 3.25" axle tubes, 3.73 gears and a nodular thirdmember, 31-spline Currie axles, under-rider "Traction Master" traction bars, Maier Racing adjustable rear panhard setup, Global West subframe connectors, complete Total Control front suspension and their R&P steering (I ordered every upgrade TCP had), adjustable coilovers up front and 2-way adjustable Varishocks on all 4 corners, and the list goes on...  










Thanks in advance for your thoughts and comments. I have a ton more "in progress" pics as well.  

TCP front coilovers with double adjustable shocks and manual rack&pinion + 12.19" Wilwoods






Here is the build-up on the rearend....

9" swap from truck to Mustang.

The truck 9" housing needed to be narrowed to Mustang specs (less 1/2 in my case) and had Big Bearing "Strange" axle ends welded onto it, using a jig for straightness. The old spring perche(s) from the truck were plasma-cut off then ground flush with the housing. Next I needed to weld on the new spring perches for the Mustang. ...(VERY IMPORTANT NOT TO GET TOP AND BOTTOM MIXED UP AS THE TRUCK HOUSING ORIGINALLY HAD THE PERCHES ON THE TOP SINCE THE LEAFS ARE "OVER" THE REAR INSTEAD OF BELOW) The 9" and 8" rears have a short and a long axle, make sure these are on the correct side of the car when welding everything up.  

The new leaf spring perches were measured out on the tubes at 43" center to center and just marked for now. We need to set the pinion angle to factory specs BEFORE tacking and welding them up.  


Using a LEVEL table I mocked the housing up on some axle blocks I had in the shop. I used a magnetic angle finder and set the axle housing to 5-degrees UP. ..This is the factory angle for most Ford cars (if not darn near all), including Mustangs in the 60's.  

Once I tried the angle finder in numerous places and was SURE the angle was right I tack-welded the pads on.  

Now it's time to weld it all up. I welded one side of each perch, and alternated back and forth from tube to tube as not to overheat and bend the tubes. And Viola! ..Perches are installed.  

Coming soon are the new axles and tapered bearings, fitting up the Wilwood discs, and making/mounting the rear brake lines to the housing.

HOUSING: Ready and patiently awaiting axles and gears

If all of my measurements came out right the axles should slip right into the carrier. (crossing my fingers!)  

Mocked up the brakes and everything looks good there.

THESE AXLES ARE REALLY ROBUST! They start out HUGE on the bearing end and taper down very gradually to the 31-spline ends. NICE, I LIKE! Good 'ol "Currie", they make some nice axles.  


I had to have an access "window" /hole cut into the axle flanges so I can get to my bearing retainer bolts! (most factory axles have this already)  

So the axles are at the machine shop for another day or so.  

I told Currie when I ordered them that I would be running Wilwood brakes and according to popular belief they were supposed to ask me about this? Apparently it's super common with the Wilwood parking brake assembly to need the access window. Otherwise there is NO WAY IN HELL to get to the nuts to tighten the backing plates.  

Part of my problem also is that the combo of the big tubes and the big-bearing housing use a larger bolt, and you can NOT put a nut on the back-side of the housing flange for easier access. There is not enough room between the stud and the axle tube for anything other than a t-bolt.  

Just another delay, no big deal. lol


This is what it should look like >>>>>>


I have my work cut out for me this weekend!  

Old rear is out, taking a break to eat and then back at it!  



Rear lines are plumbed, rear brakes are bled and work great. The gears are perfect, awesome difference in all gears under acceleration. Now I need to raise my rev limiter from 6000-6500 RPM.  

The lines came out really clean. Note the relocation of the line going from the body to the axle housing. Why Ford couldn't do this to begin with perplexes me.

...Here's the engine upper-end build. (lower end had less than 1k on it but needed a little "spring in its step" ...no pun intended)


LCA/Traction bar install....  

These normally just bolt below the factory leaf spring plates. My plates have been modified for the Maier panhard and the wider spacing for the 3.25" truck axle tubes and U-bolts. So I decided to weld the bars directly to my modified plates. I also welded the front mounts to the subframe connectors AND the frame rails.  








Took her for a little test drive and SHE HOOKS! Zero wheel-hop and much better communication in corners on and off throttle.  

 Best $100 I've spent so far.

Here are some paint and body pics...

Suspension and steering arrived early!   ...pics coming soon


Merry Christmas to the Mustang and I!   


The TCP rack reuses the factory column or an aftermarket coulmn, your choice. For the '65-early '67 Mustangs that have the one-piece steering box and shaft combo it comes with a new center shaft that replaces the factory one, lower u-joints, and coupling shaft to attach to the rack down below. You will need to cut the stock column so the TCP kit also includes a retainer bearing/column cap assembly, a firewall support bracket and boot.  

The stock column popped right out and slid off of the factory steering shaft that is one-peice with the box. I used a little persuasion (pry bar) between the box and the column to unseat 45 years of stick! Only took about 20 minutes and it was out and on the bench.

Next with the car still on the ground I removed the shock tower caps and took off the strut rod bushing nuts. This allows the suspension to droop all the way down once raised on the lift. I then removed the export brace in preparation for the TCP suspension install later on.

Here's the order I chose to do drop the suspension, steering and brakes this time around...  

I usually drop all of the suspension, steering and brakes at the same time when I'm in a hurry. If you have access to a lift it can be done that way to save time.  
Always keep the end result in mind though and DO NOT OPEN FLUID LINES or hoses unless you plan on finishing the job "the same day" or don't mind making a mess.  
In my case I only have a few hours to tackle some things today, and I will be parking another car underneath this one overnight, so I'm being a little conservative.  

So, keeping that all in mind I racked and raised the car, removed the wheels, removed outer tie rod ends and front drums from the spindles, and removed the sway bar end link bottom nuts from the lower control arm, sometimes these are on the top which makes for a messy removal(I promptly put them back on once the end-link was pulled from the lower control arm). I'm reusing the sway bar in this case so it's OK to leave it on the car, it shouldn't get in the way too badly.  

Now that everything is hanging and no longer under stress I unseated the ball-joints from the spindles. ...Note the use of the side-cutters to remove the cotter-pins and the air hammer and corresponding bit at the very tip of the ball-joint studs, being careful not to damage the threads. This is my personal method of choice to unseat ball-joints and tie rod ends from spindles. ...The use of a pickle fork here would definitely prove death for the ball-joints and tie rod ends, not good if you plan on ever reusing them on another car. I'm not that fond of pickle forks either way though. You can hit the spindle with a large hammer also for a similar result, but I don't want to put big dents in my spindles in this case either.


Now it's time to remove the center brace for access to the lower control arm bolts/eccentrics. Then I removed the lower control arms and strut rods as a complete unit.




Removing spindles an throwing them in the parts washer

Removed lower half of the steering components plus the pump and bracketry

Removing the steering box

Removed all of the upper suspension as a whole


Cleaning time!

Much Better!

...Really good stuff!

Sand blast time

A little blasting and paint goes a long way! (also a little random sneak peak of a few of the new parts that you weren't supposed to see until later) ;)  


...Wait, don't forget the instructions. Where's my beer?





First step is to remove the factory spring locator plate from inside the shock tower. You can use the spot-weld drill/bit provided with the kit or whatever method works for you. When you are done removing the plates be sure to clean up the area and paint it so it doesn't rust.  

Installing the upper coil-over mounting plates is super easy, just mock them up and hog/drill out any of the car's factory holes that need it. THERE IS A PASSENGER AND DRIVER'S SIDE PLATE and they are marked "D" and "P" The markings are hard to see since they are laser-etched and then powder-coated.  

In my case all but one of the holes on each plate lined right up to the shock tower. Do the same with the holes on your factory or aftermarket strut tower brace to make installation easier. Your brace will bolt right on top of the coil-over mounting plate. ...In order from top to bottom you will have a shock tower brace, TCP coil-over mounting plate, factory shock tower, and finally underneath will be the TCP lower retainer plate followed by lock-nuts and washers.

Now on to the lower control arms, eccentric eliminators, and strut rods. Make sure to use anti-seize on strut rod adjusters and also if you're running a TCP rack & pinion make sure the LCA bolts you use are long enough to incorporate mounting of the rack. My kit came with 2 sets, one was included with the rack and one with the LCA's. Both sets ended up being the same length in my case but it's still a great idea to check.  

Be careful not to damage the Zerk fitting on the LCA when installing the arm.

Remove collar/sleeve from factory strut rod mount

When installing the strut rod bushing to the car you need to read the instructions carefully, you will need anti-seize for the big threads and loc-tite for the small retainer bolt. TORQUE SPECS ARE MANDATORY. ...Very clever engineering was put into this part, I LIKEY.  

Zerk fitting aligned accordingly for service.

Lower coil-over perch is directional and doubles as the nut to mount the strut rod to the LCA.  

Steering stop will be adjusted later




Upper control arms go on super easy. Mine are the straight shaft instead of the drop-down ones since my car already has the 1" UCA (Shelby) drop holes drilled.  

Aligning/clocking the cotter pin holes so they line up with desired position (not pointing right at the spindle which makes it impossible to install and remove them later.  

Spindles go on next

Now it's time for the coil-overs. Setting them on the lowest setting really helps make the job easier. USE LOTS OF ANT-SEIZE ON THE SPANNER THREADS AND DONT FORGET TO LOOSEN ALLEN LOCKS. I also opted for a set of spanner bearings which make the adjusting job easier and protect your spanners from wear.  

(Note the sneak-peak of the rack & pinion mocked up in this pic)

Manual Rack & Pinion Install. Friendly advice; READ INSTRUCTIONS AND DO NOT DEVIATE WHATSOEVER or you could ruin your rack.

Clamps install in a certain order and will require shims to the frame. A drive-on lift is the best option so the chassis isn't in a bind or slightly tweaked. The instructions go over a few troubleshooting scenarios if for some reason you install it wrong and put the rack in a bind with the frame.  

If your column isn't installed yet you can move the rack by hand to see if it is binding or making noise, etc. The instruction manual will help you do the job correctly, hopefully the first time.  




Time to modify the factory steering column to work with the TCP manual rack. The parts come with the kit so all you are out is your time/labor on this. The other option is to buy their tilt column which is made by "Ididit". To keep cost down I decided to go this route although the Ididit column is really nice.  

Once again the instructions are really helpful. There are a few things you will need to know like how to adjust/shim or cut to obtain the right end-play on the shaft.

Measure and cut the old column to the length specified in the instructions. I used a hose clamp to make a straight cut. After cleaning up the cut end of the column I used a file to clean it up and then I painted the lower portion to avoid rust. Then I installed the supplied retaining collar onto the column.  

End cap/shaft support bearing assembly slides right onto the end and then it's attached with 3 sheet-metal screws (good idea to mock up shaft and steering wheel before screwing this to the column)

Now insert the supplied steering shaft and attach the steering wheel. The top half of this shaft is identical to factory and will reuse the original nut, spring and collar/bushing. I installed the wheel and set up the turn-signal cancel geometry and column to bell clearance, etc.  

Now it's time to set the end-play (telescopic play) so that your steering wheel and its shaft do not slide up and down (in and out) in the column. I installed the retainer clip at the bottom and then checked my clearance at the steering wheel-to-column bell top. Because there is a spring trying to pull the shaft outward this can be a little tricky. Once the correct position is obtained check the clearance between the shaft support bearing and the clip. Make sure the column cap and support bearing are ALL THE WAY onto the column. Determine if you need to cut more off the column or add shims to make up for play. Once you get the column close to the right length you can screw the bearing support down. In my case I needed almost 1/4" of shim so I found a nut that fit perfectly. ...hey it was free and available. lol

Now It's time to install the column and the lower steering shaft and u-joints into the car. I removed the old boot and installed the supplied boot and mount bracket as per the TCP instructions. These parts are universal from 65-69 as far as I know, and some cars may require you to drill new holes. My holes did not line up so I centered the assembly and drilled new holes. The column then slides in and bolts to the dash like normal. The slip-on support collar that was put on the column earlier slides down in-line with the boot and bracket and you screw the set screws into the collar.  



...Steering lower shaft and u-joints. First I taped the steering wheel to the column in the exact center position (would have been better if I had a nifty centering stand like the alignment shops do). Then I centered the rack & pinion as well. Next I installed the u-joints and cut the provided DD shaft to length. Finally, I used loc-tite on the allen set screws and tightened everything up.  

Now it's time to install the bump-steer tie rod kit. First thing I had to determine is which holes I was to use for the inner tie-rods. The rack instructions say one thing and the bump-steer tie rod kit instructions say another. I determined that my car uses the inner ones. As far as the adjuster sleeves anti-seize is your friend so use it generously. At some point you will follow the directions in further detail to measure and eliminate bump-steer by moving around the bushings that make up the custom outer tie rod ends. For the initial setting I put the single largest bushing on the bottom and the combination of smaller ones on top, and made them equal on each side. The inner tie rods are a little tricky since there is nothing to keep them from spinning internally. In my case I peeled back the boots and grabbed the tie-rods from the very back-side. The other thing that is kindof tricky and/or easy to overlook is the cotter pins can rub the rack boots if you don't keep their profile low enough.  

So that pretty much wraps up the suspension and steering. Make sure to lube everything, set the coil-overs to your specs, and get a proper alignment that makes sense for your combo.  

Next up is the Wilwood front disc brakes.  


Well guys, last but not least here is the Wilwood brake install. SUPER SIMPLE AND EASY TO DO! The only thing that one needs to know is that although the parts "look" the same, the 1968 kits put the caliper on the back side when the 65-67 kit is on the front. I got my kit with a group of about 5 kits for other cars in the shop so my instructions were nowhere to be found. I downloaded a set of instructions online and they were specific for 1968. So funny enough I started out putting mine on wrong...lol. I figured out soon enough that my brackets were on backward. Oops!

Here's the RIGHT WAY to put it all together...

NOTE the black rotors. This is a coating Wilwood puts on that keeps them from rusting and allows for correct seat-in on the brakes. It's some kindof mystery goo that actually works well for both purposes. Some people's first reaction is to take this coating off with abrasives or chemically. I've experimented with leaving it on or taking it off on various vehicles, spent time on the phone with their tech department about this a few times, and have learned the benefits of leaving it on. One or more of the cars that we removed the coating on ended up needing pads prematurely on the front due to noise/sqeaking. ...may or may not be the reason but on this car I left it on the rear and now the front and I followed Wilwoods break-in procedure to the letter. I've had great results just leaving it on. The brakes make some HORRIBLE noises when coming to a stop during the break-in process and if one can suck it up for a few minutes it goes right away and once the brakes cool they are good to go!  

The brake lines were easy enough with the right hardware and adapters. The 14" Wilwood line kit I bought was too short but had the right adapters for -3 AN stainless braided brake hoses. I bought a set of 18" ones from the local parts place and they were perfect.  


THE INSTALL IS DONE FOLKS! I hope everyone enjoyed this, it was a lot of work doing this solo and taking pics along the way but I figured many people can benefit from my efforts. Thanks for the encouragement and comments along the way! More pics and topics as the car progresses further and then some more fun stuff when I get her on the track. As the car stands now it handles, steers and stops phenomenally. I am still dialing in the car and I can't wait to get her out on the track and really give her a workout ... weather, time, and funds permitting.   



Car handles incredibly well! I'm DEFINITELY investing in a better steering wheel though...lol I love the feel of the rack & pinion but it's definitely a FULL RACE manual rack! ...Bicepts are throbbing as I write this.


LOOKIE WHAT SANTA BROUGHT! ...Rears to match the fronts.  


Finally found the right wheel ...15" leather wrapped Moto-Lita.   Found it used and picked it up for a great price!


Happy Holidays everyone! Here are some updated pics of the undercarriage and trunk, as well as my new rear double-adjustable Varishocks. The shocks are a HUGE difference over the Bilsteins and I LOVE the adjust-ability.  

I think once I learn the "recipe" I'll be able to race this thing on the auto-x and the drag strip all in the same day. Can anyone say biathlon? lol

...Props to Varishock for a really cool product.  

Anyone ever done this? ...The joys of building THEN PAINTING! (Backward I know) In a perfect world it would now be time for disassembly, paint, then reassembly. Call me lazy, or maybe skilled? ;) lol..

Hah! just in time for the Holidays! ... I just realized this thing looks like the sleigh from "A Nightmare Before Christmas" ".......on Dancer, on Prancer, on Edelbrock, Quick-Fuel, and " ....wait, I think I'll stop there I don't want to break any copy-write infringement laws. ;)  



Thanks! Lucky for me this car was never undercoated so clean-up and prep was a snap. I'm also pretty good at masking and painting around existing parts, etc. lol.

I used SEM "Low VOC" undercoating and Orr-Lac semi-gloss for the components and/or touch-up. Both are great products for rattle cans. On a high-dollar "rotisserie" build I use Hippo-Liner and a spray gun though, that stuff is TOUGH AS NAILS. The SEM works good for builds like mine and regular street cars. I like the mild texture and although it's rubberized, it still dries pretty hard and is durable. It comes with your choice of a straw and 2 different nozzles for different textures and easier access to crevices, etc. I spray it right out of the can with the "regular" nozzle in most cases.  

I hope everyone had a great New Years and Xmas!?


Gear oil everywhere! ...Yikes, I refilled my rearend, about 1/3 way up the axle tubes as required, so that my tapered style/submerged axle bearings would have enough oil, and what a mess the next day! My garage floor and the undercarriage of the car looked like the Exxon/Valdez oil spill. Turns out after driving the car and getting things hot, the gear oil was siphoning out from the breather hose which is located at the top of the axle tube.  

So, here's my quick-fix for that problem. ...After this addition I drove the car real hard and luckily no oil came up into the container the next day or that night, so I should be good. ....I may replace this with a smaller and nicer separator later on. If anyone has ever run "set-20" tapered bearings before they might understand my woes here. I also will need to install a new fill-plug and maybe a drain plug on my rear axle housing one of these days, since the factory 3rd member "fill hole" does not allow a high enough oil level for tapered bearings. To gain the correct oil level I literally had to fill the diff through the vent tube and check the level as I went. ...Annoying.  


I hope everyone had a good Superbowl Sunday? Time to start getting our shop ready for the big Sacramento Autorama this month, then it's off to the Goodguys Pleasanton Show with the Mustang next month! The goal is to get her out there and hit the autocross for the weekend and see what she can do!  


Gettin' ready for Auto-X next month, let the stickering begin! (more to come)  



Prepped and painted the underside of the hood (This has been bugging me for a while now) ...looks MUCH better! Sometimes it's the little things that make the difference.  


Well, it looks like the Mustang will be getting a completely new header-back exhaust system this weekend! ...All 3" mandrel stainless flush-welded system (by yours truly) with a Flowmaster "Scavenger X-Pipe" and Flowmaster "Super 40" mufflers. If time permits I may run it around the rear suspension and all the way out the back. I bought enough stainless pipe and hangers to make it happen, I just hope I have the time to do it all.


I have to give thanks the guys and gals over at Flowmaster for a few of these stainless goodies. ...Install pics coming soon!  


Scavenger X-Pipe and center section all finished!  


Exhaust is all finished! It's like a whole different car. Took it for a drive and and zero issues. No more drone, super quiet inside car but you can still here the engine. That X-pipe really works, the power-band is INSANELY different! The car used to have no power until 3k RPM's and now it has a ton of torque all over the place and kicks in hard at 2500 and pulls hard above 6k. ..Note the passenger tail section is raised for the Maier panhard setup.  

Here are the final pics and a video  


...The sound on my camera phone doesn't keep up with the revs so I pretty much kept it at an idle with a couple of small blips of the throttle.  


One of my "mediocre" test runs kept it in first gear and raised the rev limiter and just still too much gear. 35.90 seconds.  

GOPR0257 - YouTube

Best run in 2nd gear 34.760. Not bad! ...especially for lugging the engine the entire track.  

GOPR0258 - YouTube

Learned two very important things.... I NEED POWER STEERING (bent steering wheel and my arms hurt like hell) and I NEED LESS GEAR! ...3.55's or 3.73's would do the trick versus the 4.10's.  

Had fun!



Here's a video one of my co-workers took of my first EVER run. Not too shabby! Was able to shave off about 5 seconds in 6 runs for a best of 34.760


Just arrived home from Mather Field with the Mustang. This was "our" 1st official SCCA Autocross event. Lino Chestang from Chassisworks rode along on all 4 runs and Carl Ogren, also from Chassisworks was there to pay tribute in the AM. Despite a few starter solenoid issues early in the morning (all fixed now thanks to a joint effort between Carl, Lino, and myself) everything went well. We qualified with a 69.936 run and finished after four runs with a final and best run time of 60.840. (Major improvement) Zero adjustments were made to the car, it ran great as-is. Didn't hit any cones either. Not bad!



..all stickered up and ready for the day..





..Chillin at a local car show.  

...Did everyone get to see the latest video from Mather Field SCCA?  




Hope to see some of you guys at Gearhead's 10-year bash this Sunday!  


Here are some professional pics of the Stang taken at the show.  


Results are in!  

Here are the "Best Run" results for the 4/13/2013 Mather Field SCCA Sacramento Cup event. (Round 1)

The car and I did very well for the first time out (ZERO COMPLAINTS) especially for NOT pushing myself or the car hard at all.  

Best time was 60.840 seconds with only 4 runs, each run was MUCH faster than the prior. With a little more suspension tuning and a few more practice runs (More camber and caster) and a heavier foot I'm sure I could have achieved times in the mid 50's or who knows, maybe even the low 50's (we shall see what the future holds).  

We finished #105 out of 172, running quite a bit faster than a number of Porsches, Z06 Corvettes, C4 and C5 Corvettes, WRX's, RX7's, a Mistubishi Evo, an '06 GTO, a number of Miatas, a Honda S2000, and many other cool and fast cars.  


Most of all I had a blast and didnt' break myself or the car.    

Overall Order of Finish: Actual times

(Driver)(Car)(Class)(Best Run) (Indexed)(Secs/min Behind)

1Mike WoodVan Diemen RF/88cm48.34243.9910
2Tom Smiley1965 Chevrolet Corvettebp48.99743.0190.813
3Maurice VelandiaArrowf149.67647.4411.656
4Bob Weisickle1956 Austin Healeyem49.80846.2221.82
5Rick Brown1990 Chevrolet Corvettebp49.97843.8812.031
6Doug Hargrove1987 Red Devilfm50.06345.9082.136
7Rory Marin1964 Chevrolet Corvettebp50.18044.0582.281
8Bob Giovannoni1967 Chevrolet Camarocp50.74843.7452.986
9Gale Smiley1965 Chevrolet Corvettebpl51.35845.0923.743
10Mike Ansell1969 Chevrolet Camarocp51.45744.3563.866
11Harold Olsen1996 Chevrolet Corvettebsp51.49444.1823.912
12Ken Yeo1989 Chevrolet Corvettebsp51.52544.2083.951
13Speedy Knudsen1969 Chevrolet Camarocp51.53344.4213.961
14Al Patterson2006 Dodge Viperssp51.76045.0834.242
15Steve Slinkard2002 CTS Kartf152.31149.9574.926
16Milt Burleson1967 Chevrolet Camarocp52.80145.5145.534
17Brad Fleig2002 Chevrolet Corvette Z06ss53.04345.5645.835
18Ray Miller1989 Chevrolet Corvettebsp53.22245.6646.057
19Ruby Villarreal2001 Chevrolet ZO6ssp53.42446.5326.308
20Vince Russell1990 Mazda Miatacsp53.60546.1546.532
21Brett Egen1998 Baby Grand Monte Carloam53.61753.6176.547
22Lanny Bowden1989 Chevrolet Corvette C4bsp53.72546.0966.681
23Brian Jacobson1998 Chevrolet Camero SSesp53.86045.7276.849
24Susan Fontaine2007 Porsche 997Sssl54.23846.5907.318
25Jeff Glorioso2003 Chevrolet Corvettesti54.65746.9507.838
26Roger Fellows2004 Chevrolet Corvette Z06ss54.66346.9567.845
27Jan Knudsen1969 Chevrolet Camarocpl54.82047.2558.04
28Ken Falconitin2001 Honda S2000sm54.85947.5638.089
29E.J. Fontaine2007 Porsche 997ss54.91447.1718.157
30Doug Hubbard1989 Chevrolet Corvettebs54.98046.4588.239
31Corey Englehardt2013 Subaru STIsti55.11846.6308.41
32Bill Brooks2013 Brooks Special Open Roadsterbm55.16653.0708.47
33Josh Garcia1973 Datsun S10ep55.20148.3018.513
34Penny Hubbard1989 Chevrolet Corvettebsl55.35546.7758.704
35Tom Kubo1990 Mazda Miatacsp55.39047.6918.748
36Sean Velandiaja55.51048.7938.897
37Gus Migchels1998 Chevrolet Corvetteas55.61747.1089.029
38Des ToupsScion FRSsti55.72846.4779.167
39Tom Nivison1990 Chevrolet Corvettebs55.73247.0949.172
40Nathan Gabriel1993 Mazda Miatacsp55.73247.9859.172
41Tony Manzer1993 Chevroletcp55.81848.1159.279
42Ken McCulloch2012 Ford Mustang GTsti55.89346.3919.372
43Ken Pickett1991 Chevrolet Corevettebs55.99047.3129.492
44Shauna Glorioso2003 Chevrolet Corvettestil56.01448.1169.522
45Bill Clarkson1994 Chevrolet Luminacp56.11448.3709.646
46Jeff Andrade2003 Nissan 35OZcs56.23346.8989.794
47Davey Drouin1992 Mazda Miataes56.24046.5679.803
48Mark Heinrichs1995 Chevrolet Z28fs56.33946.7619.926
49Ben Hardt2000 Audi TTsm56.35248.8579.942
50Marie Lindberg2004 Chevrolet Corvette Z06ssl56.39448.4429.994
51Jack Parker2007 Mazda MX-5str56.46047.37010.076
52Eric Ramirez2003 Nissan 350Zcs56.51747.13510.146
53Carl Graf2004 Nissan 350Zcs56.53347.14910.166
54Nick Haleen2001 Mazda MX-5cs56.70947.29510.385
55Gary Ratliff1969 Buggy Manxdm56.73252.08010.413
56Bob Reagh1998 Chevrolet Corvetteas56.86448.16410.577
57Eric Egen1998 Baby Grand Monte Carloam56.99856.99810.743
58Steve Mill1971 Datsun 240 Zfp57.02350.00910.774
59Tony Monoogan2008 Corvettesti57.20449.13810.999
60Ron Garcia1973 Datsun S10ep57.22050.06811.019
61Nick Brand2008 Ford Mustang GTsti57.25848.61211.066
62Eric Williams1987 Toyota FX16dsp57.35349.03711.184
63Thanat Phavindhu2003 Honda S2000str57.44748.19811.301
64Ryan Grow1986 Honda S2000str57.51348.25311.383
65Chris Estrada Sr2000 Toyota Celica GTSgs57.53546.94911.41
66Russ Bowlus1994 Mazda Miataes57.67047.75111.578
67Charles Meyer2002 Honda S2000str57.67248.38711.58
68Kevin Grivich2010 Infiniti G37 Sedanstx57.79947.80011.738
69George White2004 Corvette Z06sti57.81349.66111.755
70Michael Drouin1994 Mazda Miataes57.89347.93511.854
71Ingrid Ansell1969 Chevrolet Camarocpl58.11350.09312.127
72Jeff Thompson2005 Ford Mustang GTsti58.21248.31612.25
73Mike MooreChevrolet Z06sti58.22350.01412.264
74Joe Van Sickle1994 Mazda Miatadp58.22450.88812.265
75Jason Trantham2006 Chevolet Corvettesm58.24150.49512.286
76Roman Volchansky2001 Acura Type Rfm58.25953.42412.309
77Cameron Bowen2012 Nissan 370Zsti58.27848.60412.332
78Dave Green2013 Home Built Apexam58.29058.29012.347
79Bob Imrisek2003 Chevrolet Z06sti58.36350.13412.438
80Kris Haleen2001 Mazda MX-5cs58.39048.69712.471
81Darrel Huckabay2008 Porsche Boxstersti58.59449.51212.724
82Bill Nandor2007 Chevrolet Corvette Z06ss58.73550.45312.899
83Dan Morlan2002 Subaru 2.5RSstx58.80348.63012.984
84Justin Bowen2012 Nissan 370Zsti58.81749.05313.001
85Ken Haleen2001 Mazda Miatacs58.89149.11513.093
86Lloyd Feaver1997 BMW M3sti58.92549.14313.135
87Renee Russell1990 Mazda Miatacspl58.97050.77313.191
88Eric Martin2011 BMW 335isti59.03248.76013.268
89Rufus Crow III1993 Ford Mustangsm59.21651.34013.496
90Donora Wichmann1987 Toyota FX16dspl59.23250.64313.516
91Jason Belden2012 BMW 135stu59.42950.27713.761
92Jim Cigler2008 Ford Mustang GTsti59.48349.37113.828
93Jim Hearn1974 Triumph TRGfp59.66452.32514.052
94Marcus Thomas1992 Honda Civicsti59.78348.06614.2
95Ken Evans2003 Chevrolet Corvettess59.85251.41314.286
96Debbie Owenf1l59.90957.21314.356
97Steve Clark1990 Ford Mustangsti59.91550.86814.364
98Blake Pronty2012 Mazda Speed 3stx60.07449.68114.561
99Shawn Reilly2003 Mercedes SL 55sti60.10751.63214.602
100Ryan RoseneNissan 350Zcs60.23650.23714.762
101Chris Gibson1975 Volkswagen Rabbitfsp60.30450.53514.847
102Jim Sladek2010 Porsche Cayman Sss60.56952.02915.176
103Rod Gonzalez1999 Mazda Miatasti60.64150.57515.265
104Josh Craig1997 Mazda Miataes60.67250.23615.303
105Brandon Kelley1967 Ford Mustangcp60.84052.44415.512
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107Eric Smiley2006 Subaru Impreza WRXds60.97350.36415.677
108Butch Mortenson1989 Chevrolet Corvettebs61.02551.56615.742
109Barb Pickett1991 Chevrolet Corevettebsl61.06051.59615.785
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111Laszlo G. Rekasi1974 BMW 2002fsp61.19251.27915.949
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Here is the video of our best run for those that haven't seen it.  





Took the Mustang to Sac Raceway for a little 1/4 mile Drag Racing test and tune this evening. Ran a best ET of 12.931. That run resulted in a 102.279 MPH with a 2.042 60-Foot and .135 reaction time.  

Best overall numbers for the night were 107.4 MPH, 2.042 60-Foot, and my best reaction time was .041. If I could have combined all of those numbers into one clean run (Practice makes perfect!) I believe I could have nailed a 12.50 to a 12.70.  

VERY HAPPY WITH THIS! Not often do you see a purpose-built road/autoX car run 12's in the quarter mile with just a quick adjustment of the shocks. (literally done in 5 minutes) ...I still had the sticky/wide tires on the front also.  

...Just a few turns of the adjusters on the 2-way adjustable Varishock shocks allowed for great weight transfer to the rear tires. The thing launched awesome and pulled hard the entire way.  


Here's a little "teaser" video, still waiting on a few people to send me better pics and videos.



...Here's how my day went. The original radiator sprung a leak so I found a cheap aluminum alternative. Took all day to do it all right, NOT a direct bolt-in by any means. I had to hand-make brackets for everything, shroud included.  


Still waiting on a few more videos from friends... This is the second half of one of my 13.0XX passes.  


Swapped out my 4.11 gears today for 3.70's that have been fitted into a nodular case. I also welded in drain and fill bungs to my 9" housing.

...Going to countersink the drain plug for a little extra ground clearance.

...Decided to cut a drain passage into the recessed/countersunk area of the plug for better draining.


Restored the dash this weekend. ..new pad, bezel, trim panels, and trio gauge set.  


Here's another video of the Stang at Sac Raceway. Spun a little out of the hole and tapped the rev-limiter a little at the top of 1st but made it up mid-track, watch her go after I hit 2nd! (...Right lane was slippery, almost consistently a tenth of a second slower in that lane compared to the left)


A few recent pics at SLT HAN and Wilwood's booth at Pleasanton GG Nationals...


All good things come to an end. Time to sell out and put a down payment on a house.

Please email me via the ad for best results. I'm not on here that often these days.  



Since I Kept the Mustang "In the family" I thought I would show this year's upgrades/changes as per the new owner..... On the growing list is a color change, new hood, front spoiler, smoothed and painted engine bay, welded shock towers, hydroboost braking, custom interior and audio, power steering, new wheels and tires, more horsepower; (Probably a Windsor stroker, EFI and boost/power adder).