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My slow build
Compliments of 87GT Drop Top @ forums.corral.net
I got it in April, 2009. At first I didn't take many pictures. Here we go.
I have a build thread on another site. I figured I would post it here also.
Here is what the car looked like when I bought it in April of 2009. I'm the second owner. I think I got a good deal. I paid $3700 for it. It had 91,xxx miles on it. It came with a folder of receipts an inch thick from everything that was done to it since new. It had a new top a new paint in 2005. The A/C compressor and accumulator was replaced in 2004. Also the radiator and water pump. Since 2004 the guy had only put 8,000 miles on it. I knew that from the mileage listed on the receipt from the Ford dealer from the A/C job. Here are a couple of pictures the day I brought it home.
Here it is the next day after I removed the bra and chrome fender liners.
Since then I got rid of the porno red carpet and I installed charcoal gray carpet. I also replaced all the switch plate and seat belt sleeves.
I removed the luggage rack and replaced it with a small wing. I also added wheels and tires. The stupid chrome tips are gone too.
Then I whited out the stripe and letters and also new lights in the front.
I have since added LX tail lights and changed the headlights.
Installed white face reverse glow gauge faces. They can change from blue to green. I also did white faces for the climate control, but I couldn't find reverse glow ones. If anyone knows where I can get some let me know. Plus a Hurst billet shifter & shfiter ball.
130 amp 6G alt, Contour fans and Hayden 2 speed fan controller.
Here's my exhaust. Stainless shortys, BBK H-pipe with high flow cats welded in and Dynamax mufflers, all welded together.
Other things I've done so far.
4" crank pulley
Hurst Billet shifter
K&N air filter, but will get a CAI when I redo the engine
Kenwood head unit with Sirius satelite radio
6 new speakers
1200 watt amp & 2 10's in the trunk
new wheel bearings & seals ft & rr
new bearing & seals in the differential
Rack & pinion & outer tie rods
180 degree stat
delete all the smog stuff
This was on May 8, 2010.
Here is how the car looks at the moment. I'm installing a Pro Motion transmission that can handle 500HP, Ford Racing aluminum drive shaft and a Center Force duel friction clutch.
Some miscellaneous parts from underneath that I painted.
May 10, 2010
I got a little more done tonight. I also learned the the flywheel only goes on one way. Man is it agravating trying to put it on not knowing that 2 of the bolts are slightly further a part then the rest. The worst part was I got it on and then I realized I forgot the aluminum shield. Then back a part it came.
Center force clutch and shield installed
Bell housing back on. Clutch fork & cable hooked up
MM quadrant installed
Firewall adj installed
I will be throwing in the transmission as soon as my neighbor can come over and help me.
When I took the starter out I noticed on of the ears were cracked so I figured I might as well upgrade to a mini hi-torque one. I found this new one on ebay for $49.95 + $8.95 shipping. That includes the extra wire to rewire it. Then I notice the location says Lake Worth, FL. I'm like cool, because I work in Lake Worth. I figured I would go pick it up today.....wrong. I call them up and the say our home office is in Lake Worth, but our warehouse of parts is in NC. I had to just buy it on ebay and wait for it to arrive. I won't be able to try out my next stuff until the weekend.
May 12, 2010
OK I got sick of waiting on my neighbor to help me out so I decided to try and tackle installing the transmission by myself. All in all it wasn't too bad. I put it on my floor jack and rolled it under the car. Once I jacked it up high enough it was a little struggle but it went in pretty easily. All of the major work is done for now. All I have to do is fill the trans, put on the shifter, put the interior back together and install the starter. Hopefully the starter will be here tomorrow. The clutch feel lighter then it did before. I can't wait to try it out to see how much better 1st & 5th gear are with the different gearing. I will report back once I drive it.
Ford Racing drive shaft installed
May 13, 2010
New mini starter arrived. I'm going into the garage to install it now. No comments about how dirty the carpet it. It's in the garage in front of my work benches.
May 14, 2010
Well I got the interior back together and took it out for a test ride. Luckily nothing fell off. The new transmission it tight! Between the new transmission, transmission mount, clutch, quadrant and aluminum drive shaft it feels like a different car. There is zero vibration in the shifter. When I lay into it, it doesn't jump like it used to. It's really smooth. I'm very happy.
This thread will probably lay low for a while as I collect the engine and suspension parts. That's unless I find some money somewhere. I've been know to do that on occasion.
I did all of the prep work and lined everything up for the sumbframe connectors. Now when I go to my buddies shop tomorrow all he has to do is weld them on.
Here are the seat braces bolted up.
Here is the front frame rail grinded and ready for welding.
I notched the stock frame connector plates that come on a vert instead of removing them.
May 24, 2010
OK I had the sub-frame connectors welded in today. It was done at my buddies shop in Lake Worth FL. Custom Exhaust. They do some of the best quality exhaust work anywhere. No dangling tailpipes here. If you go see Don or Doug, tell them Frank from Bennett Auto Supply sent you.
Man I forgot my camera so I had to use my phone. I'm surprised what good pictures it takes.
Here's the car on the rack.
Here's Julio lining things up.
Some of the finished product.
One of the projector headlights had water in it. I was on the fence weather I liked them or not, so that swayed my decision to put back these. If I do get it replaced for free, which I hope I do. They are only 4 months old. I'm going to sell them.
June 26, 2010. I told them i was in no hurry.
Lastly for now. I ordered an engine from Fordstrokers about 2 weeks ago.
Here is the build sheet for the engine.
347 Liberator Complete Longblock -
Roller 302 Machined Block
Scat Cast Steel 3.400 Crankshaft
Scat Forged Steel I Beam Connecting Rods 5.400
Probe SRS 2618 Forged Pistons (Flat, TFS) 4.030
Perfect Circle Moly File Fit Rings
Clevite 77 Main Bearings
Clevite 77 Rod Bearings
Clevite 77 Cam Bearings
Screw in Oil Galley Plugs
Fel Pro Rear Main Seal
ARP Main Studs
FordStrokers Custom HYD Roller Camshaft
SA Gear Billet Timing Chain with Torrington Bearing
Melling Oil Pump M68
Moroso/Canton Oil Pump Pick Up
ARP Billet Oil Pumpshaft
Fel Pro 1 Piece Pan Gasket
Moroso/Canton 7qt Oil Pan - Fox Body
Timing Chain Cover
Mr. Gasket Oil Pan Bolts
Fel Pro Timing Chain Cover Gasket
Fuel Pump Eccentric?? Mechanical Fuel Pump?
TFS Twisted Wedge Fast as Cast 190cc Cylinder Heads
Comp Cams HYD Roller Lifters
Comp Cams Ultra Gold Rocker Arms 1.6
4130 Chromemoly .080 Wall 1 Piece Formed End Pushrods
ARP Head Bolts
Fel Pro 9333 Head Gaskets
Professional Products NON SFI 28oz Balancer - 80006
Professional Products .95 Spacer - 81007
157 Tooth Billet Steel Flywheel 28oz
Block Painted the Color of Your Choice -
-Shotblasted (Remove scale, rust)
-Magnafluxed for cracks
-Cylinders bored on Kwik-Way Boring Bar and Table
-Finish honed on Peterson Powerstroke Hone with BHJ
Aluminum Torque Plates, Fel Pro Head Gaskets and ARP
Hardware (.0001-0002 Taper MAX)
-Plateau Brushed (Provides Instant Ring Seal)
-Main Bearing Bores Align Honed on a Sunnen CH-100
-Deck surfaced on a Winona Van Norman CBN surfacer (Ra
Finish compatible with MLS Gaskets)
-Screw In Oil Galley Plugs
-Lifter Valley Oil Drain Backs Chamferred
-Oil Filter Inlet Chaferred
-Threaded Holes Chased
-Lifter Bores Honed
-Crankshaft Balancing done on Hines Dominator XP Digital
Balancer - Balanced to 28oz
June 15, 2010
I just got the new intake that will be sitting on top of my FordStrokers.com 347. It's a Track Heat. I will be sending the lower to Jim @ FordStrokers so he can install it when he builds my engine. I'm getting closer 1 part at a time. No comments on the dirty carpet. It's in my garage.
Oct 17, 2010
I'm getting all so close to having everything I need. No pictures right now, because I still haven't gotten my stolen stuff back from the cops/pawn shops. (My house was robbed on Sept 16, 2010). Here is a list of things I bought since the last update. I plan on putting everything new on the new engine. I won't be using any parts off the old engine.
4" n/a Anderson power pipe.
A9L (rebuilt A1 Cardone unit)
Pro M 80mm MAF with big mouth filter
Acufab 75mm throttle body with EGR delete
Acufab fuel pressure regulator
255lph fuel pump
Champion 3 row all aluminum radiator
Performance Distributors Hot Forged distributor
stock fuel rails (the only used part I will be using)
oil pressure sw
temp sending unit
coolant temp sensor
idle air temp sensor
There might be more but that's all I can think of off of the top of my head. When the parts arrive I put them in the attic so the wife doesn't see all the money I spend. I'm hoping to be able to tear into the car in January or February.
Jan 16, 2011
The beginning of my Fordstrokers 347.
Jan 18, 2011
updated pic from today
Jan 26, 2011
The transformation has begun. The engine is out. We worked on it about 2 hours Monday night and about 2 1/2 hours last night.
The beginning of the tear down
From underneath...still all together
I'm lucky to have access to this kind of a work area at my friends house
Empty engine bay
Car on trailer on it's way home
Jan 27, 2011
FordStrokers just sent me a picture of the finished product before the put it in the crate to ship. I guess I will have to trim the excess gasket material.
Jan 29, 2010
I was only able to work on the car for a few hours. I cleaned up most everything and ran all the nuts & bolts on the wire wheel. Here are the accessory brackets ready to be powder coated gloss black.
Jan 30, 2010
The more I take this thing a part the more I wonder if I will be able to put it back together correctly. I don't have the tool for the A/C spring locks. If I did the condensor would be out. I will get one tomorrow. A few pictures from today.
This is what I started with.
Here's what I ended with.
Jan 30, 2011
I have a PA racing K-member and control arms that will be installed after I finish the engine bay.
Feb 1, 2011
The engine arrived today. I forgot to take a picture before I cut the straps off the box.
Feb 2, 2011
A couple items arrived today.
MM steering shaft
PA Racing k-member & a-arms
Feb 4, 2011
Got some more goodies today.
Distributor, wires & coil.
Feb 10, 2011
Got more stuff today.
Here's where I'm at now.
I tore the inside a part today. The dash seems to be hung up on the A/C vents in the middle. How do I get them a part?
That looks good. I replaced the carpet when I got the car in April 2009. It only has about 5,000 miles on it.
The dash is pretty much swinging freely. It seems like it's the A/C vents. I'm done with it for today. I will be back at tomorrow AM.
I've been slacking. I need to get my ass in gear.
Scottrodfab panels are here.
I worked on the car a little today. I got the engine bay pretty much gutted. I pulled the drivers side harness into the fender. I also pulled the passengers side into the car so I can run it behind the dash. This is going to be the challenging part. I'm going to make a hole just above the trans tunnel so I can run the 10 pin connectors through to the engine. I might be trying something else that I only seen one person do. Details to follow.
I worked on the car a few more hours today. I repinned the harness for the MAF conversion. I also made the hole larger where the cruise control stuff comes out so I can run the harness out through there. I'm wanting to keep the cruise control, but if there isn't enough room I will delete it.
Harness repinned with MAF connector.
Cruise control servo and entry to the cabin.
Hole made bigger.
I split a piece of vacuum hose and glued it around the hole to keep the wires from chafing. I will have to come up with some sort of boot to cover it. I'm thinking of pulling the other harness you see hanging into the car and feeding it through the new hole. Also possibly doing the same thing on the other side.
I like the idea of pulling the wires right from the inside of the car to the fender without them passing into the engine bay, that I drilled a hole on the passengers side too. Next will be a hole just above the trans tunnel for the injector harness to come out. That way you won't see any wires except the plug wires. I still have to figure out a few more things, but it's slowly coming a long.
I accomplished a little more. The engine harness is starting to take shape. I realized I'm going to have to make some of the wires longer. The A/C low pressure sw and coil are 2. The brake M/C sw and the hood light if I keep them. Will not plugging in the M/C sw set off a code?
Well I messed around a little with the car in between my honey do list.
I got a aluminum face plate from UPR the other day. I work less then 5 minutes from them.
I never liked the way the gauges weren't broken up by something. On the other hand I don't have an shiney stuff inside my car. I took the face plate and sanded it down. Then I painted it with satin black. What do you think?
I was going to buy the ones that just have the white circles, but they used the same back lighting. I wanted the reverse glow ones like th newer cars have and this was the only way they came. UPP discontinued the face plate. I've seen it on there website before. Now that I was ready to buy it, it wasn't there. I called over there and Adam told me they were discontinued but he still had some in stock.
Thanks I can't wait either. It will be a while. I will be driving up to Melbourne to where Kaenen's shop is to get a hood when I taken my vacation the end of March. Then all I have to do is save money to have the car painted.
I hoping to have the paint done some time in June. I hoping the whole car will be done by September for the Patriot Run to the Florida Keys. Then Mustang week in 2012.
Got some of the welding done today. Ran out of gas so couldn't finish up the engine bay. That's Ok because I have a ton of grinding to do. I didn't have my camera so here are some crappy cell phone pictures. Still have to do the torque boxes. No coment about the bird#### looking welds. I'm a parts guy with a welder.
Introducing the 2015
SUBARU BOXER® engine.
Hopefully more to come soon.
This is a the bushings in the axle housing.
Here is the MM tool for removal/installation on there. That thing works like a charm and is worth every penny it cost.
Here is the bushing removed.
Old bushing in tool after removal.
Old bushing definitely looks bad.
New bushing installed.
Well I worked on the car again today. I installed the UPR upper & lower torque box reinforcements. I still have 1 side upper to go. I guess a vert is different because I had to really modify some of the stuff to make it work. I tried the upper first and man what a pain in the ass. I broke a 3/8 drill bit off in one of the holes and had to make a new 1. The lowers weren't to bad, beside having to cut a 3" long groove in the upper part of the lower reinforcement. Noewhere does it say you have to modify it foe a vert. Plus the directions suck @ best.
Here is the inside upper. It comes really curved. I'm guessing a hatch and/or notch is different then a vert. I had to straighten it out for it to work.
Here is the under side of the upper. The hole just above the bottom 2 is where I broke off my brand new 3/8" bit.
The 2015 Subaru
Here is the top of the lower.I had to cut a slot to straddle the metal body piece.
Here is the under side of the lower.
Sneek peek of the lower control arms.
I pretty much finished up the rear suspension today. I thought the control arms were going to be a piece of cake to install. Man was I wrong. I had to fight with every bolt except for the last one.
Painted the rear end.
New diff cover/girdle going on.
Todays project was install 255LPH fuel pump. It went pretty smooth. I never would have gotten the tank back in place if it wasn't for my wonderful wife running the floor jack.
Pump assembly out.
New pump installed.
Tank back up.
Car back on the ground.
I messed with the car a little today. I soldered some wires and drilled the hole in the trans tunnel for the engine harness.
I've been slowly trying to figure out how to run the wires. I have to make some of them longer. I've been doing a lot of soldering lately. I installed the battery box in the trunk. I should have done it when I installed the fuel pump because I had to lower the tank to do it. I also ran the 1 gauge cable for the positive and negative. I've read too many stories about hot start problems when the battery isn't grounded to the block so I ran the negative cable to the engine compartment. I also mounted the solenoid. I will be adding a junction block in the fender because there were too many wires on the hot side of the solenoid. Before I could barely get the nut on. Here's a few pictures.
Here is where the coil is going to be mounted. I sanded off all of the surface rust before I started the body work.
Here is the junction block mounted and jumped over to the solenoid. I think I'm going to rotate the solenoid 180 degrees.
Here's what I got done today. Man sanding sucks! Hopefully I can get it finished some time this week.
Sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.... sanding.
Man I hate sanding.
I had a couple of my buddies come over today to help out with the car. Luckily they are a lot better at doing body work then me. I can handle the mechanical stuff and the wireing, but not the body work. We got a lot accomplished.
We sprayed some primer to keep the bare metal from rusting. Also it makes it easier to see what still needs some attention. Hopefully it won't be too much longer until it's ready for paint. I only have some skimming with the red putty and and some sanding left. What do you think?
OK did a little more on the car tonight. Tomorrow should be the final day of sanding.
Here's my 2 friends that have pretty much taken over the body work. Without them I'd be stuck.
Worked on it some more last night and tonight. I don't know if I'm being to anal, but everytime I think I have it looking good I find more to sand or skim. Passing a flashlight over it really shows everything.
I installed the Cobra grill insert today. I forgot to take pictures while I was doing it. I also did more skimming and sanding.
Here it is installed
I know most people use double sided tape, but I went a different route. There is 2 holes on the back of the insert that look like they are there to bolt it in. I decided to use them. I had some L shaped shelf brackets laying around. I cut them down and drilled new holes. I drilled a couple of holes in the plastic support that the headlights bolt to and bolted it in. It was a little tricky getting my fingers in there to get the nut on the bolt, but it's in there nice and tight.
Final pictures before I take it for paint tomorrow.
Paint shop just texted me this picture. More to come tomorrow.
Thanks! You ain't lieing either. I'm glad I'm finally past that point. IMO it was the worst part of the project so far. I was supposed to pick the car up on Friday, but he called and told me while he was clearing the nose he got some over spray in the engine bay and had to reshoot it. He called me yesterday at about 4PM and asked if I wanted to pick it up and I couldn't because I had a load of dirt and a pallet of sod on the trailer. I will be meeting him at the shop later today to pick it up. More pictures then.
I worked on the car a litttle. I put in the running horse. Woo Hooo!
I removed all of the front suspension including the k-member.
The springs popped out very easily use the method I was told in the other thread I made asking how to do it.
Here it is with everything removed.
Here's the old stuff. The struts look like the are original an they are shot.
I will hopefully be installing the new stuff tomorrow.
Well I bolted the K-member in tonight. It looks good. I followed the instructions on Maximum Motorsports website to square it up. I'm very dissapointed with this PA Racing k-member. There is like no adjustment. I might be slightly off, but by my measurements I'm off by 1/2" on the front to back measurement. I pulled it back out and will be calling them in the AM. Here's it bolted it.
I wanted too but didn't for 2 reasons.
1. I'm too cheap, but I guess you get what you pay for.
2. I didn't want to spend the money for coil overs (refer to #1)
The more I think about it I wonder if the problem could be in the rear. I've changed everything back there too. Does anyone have a way for me to check the rear to see if it's square? If not I think I will bolt everything up and see how the wheels sit in the wheel opening.
I just talked to PA racing and they told me their jig is exactly the same as the factory K-member. He said either my frame rail is tweaked or my rear isn't square. He said I need to get adjustable rear lower control arms. I guess I will put it in and see what the wheels look like in the wheel well opening.
K-member, control arms and spindles on.
Maximum Motorsports Caster camber plates.
Strust in springs in.
View from below.
I worked on the car today. I got a few things put back on.
Headlight installed. It's starting to look like a car again.
Wiper motor, brake booster and coil installed.
Also put in the rack, sway bar, link pins and brake rotors.
I did a little more on the car today.
I mounted the over flow bottle
I mounted the charcoal canister.
I mounted the horns.
Here is a view from the top. From the factory there are black rubber/plastic shields on either side that run from the swaybar mount up to the radiator support. I'm thinking of making something out of staimless steel or aluminum to better hide the overflow bottle and charcoal canister.
I also stopped by UPR today and got an aluminum wind defector and G-track K-member brace. I didn't realize that the PA Racing K-member doesn't have a spot to mount it. I will have to be bringing it back. Adam hooked me up as usual.
I made a little more progress tonight. I mounted the vacuum tree in the drivers side fender. I also ran the hose to the booster. Then I ran the hose from the vacuum tree, through the passengers compartment, out to the passengers side fender to where the vacuum check valve is mounted.
The MAP sensor is also mounted on the passengers side.
I have most of the wiring done. I just have to straighten/tighten things up a bit. Here is the mess of wires and vacuum hoses running out the hole in the trans tunnel. I'm running everything through there. I added about 10 feet the the alt/regulator wire so it will go through there and under the intake. I also did the same to the wires for the purge solenoid and the vacuum hoses.
The only things I have left to do before I drop in the engine is bend new brake lines, because the proportioning valve will be in the drivers side fender well. Then I have to lenghten a few wires on my cooling fan harness. Hopefully the engine will be going in soon.
Thanks! I guess I will find out. I didn't have a chance to mess with it this weekend. I was to busy picking up my new Lightning!!
I seem to be getting a lot of that lately. It's an 02 with 18,800 miles on it. It's like brand new. Only mods are Flowmaster cat back, Eibach springs, hard bed cover and wheels.
Well I was back at it today. It was tough to pull away from the Lightning. I'm having issues with my self on not ordering parts for the truck. I keep telling myself "not until the car is done."
I ran all the new brake lines today. I ran them around the front of the car under the radiator support. The proportioning valve is in the drivers side fender. The ones from the master cylinder to the valve through a hole in the rear pf the strut tower. I covered the lines with vacuum hose so there isn't any chaffing. I don't think I did to bad considering I've never bent or flared brake line before. Hopefully I won't have any leaks.
Lines running into fender
Lines running along drivers side.
Lines running along passengers side.
Lines running under radiator support.
I can't wait to see it too! I really don't have any experience in doing most of what I'm doing. I have some mechanical skills from racing 4 wheelers. I'm just making it up as I go a long. I have countless hours in the car I couldn't imagine paying someone to do it. Plus doing it yourself it gets done exactly the way you want it. I will hopefully be dropping in the engine very soon.
I filled up the brake system and bled it today. I have what feels like a pretty good pedal. The best part NO LEAKS!!
I was able to reuse the one the goes from the bottom of the master cylinder to the drivers side caliper. Also where the union is on the passengers side to the rear.
I had to make new lines from the master to the proportioning valve. Then from the valve to the passengers side caliper and the valve to the union on the passengers side that goes to the rear. I reused all of the nuts except for the 12mm one on the master. I f-ed mine up removing it. I had to buy a bag of five so if you need one I can help.
My car was bone stock right down to the air silinecer when I bought it. I wanterd to do everything myself and the way I wanted it done. That way it exactly the why I want it and I know what/how everything that's done to it.
Tonight was the night to drop in the engine. When I got to my buddies house he had a car still on the lift, so it wasn't available. I brought over my headers and distributor to be installed while there. He was busy so all we did was drop in the motor. I will do the rest at home.
Here's the truck hooked up to the trailer with the car on it.
Here's the engine coming out of the crate.
Here's it being dropped in
I installed the BBK 1 3/4" ceramic long tubes and the water pump tonight. I was going to put on the water outlet, but i didn't have 1 bolt. Oh well i can do it tomorrow.
I picked up the stuff from the powder coater today. He did the top brackets the hold the radiator in black instead of white like I asked. He will be redoing them tomorrow.
Here's the stuff less the valve covers.
Here's a small preview of the engine.
I bolted on a few more things tonight.
I'm almost thinking of taking the alt & compressor off and painting them silver. What do you think?
I've did a little more work to the car. I'm getting close to having all the engine wiring done.
I replaced some of the oil pan bolts with stud to hold the wires.
Battery and block ground
I had to take the right header off like 5 times to bang in the firewall for clearance. The last time I ripped the gasket. Now I will have to get a new set. I'm on vacation all week. I'm hoping to start it some time this week.
I got a lot accomplished today. All of the wiring for the engine is done. I just need to tighten up inside the car. I also installed the trans and driveshaft.
I couldn't decide where to mount the fan controller. I wantes it hidden buy still accessable so I could adjust the tempurature and change a fuse if need be. I ended up making the wires longer si I could bring it insde the car.
It's getting there. I also installed the rest of the exhaust system today.
Everything is done under the hood except for stabbing the distributor and wires.
Power pipe from inside the fender. That thing was a PITA to put in. I think it would have been easier if I made the hole in the fender a little bigger.
Well the distributor is in and the wires are on. Everything under the hood is done. Everything under the car is done. Tomorrow I will start on putting the interior back together.
I don't know what I'm doin...............but I'm doin.
Well things didn't go as planned. It cranked a little slow. Then I smelled fuel. I look under the car and there is a small puddle of fuel that was coming from one of the hard lines where it turns into rubber. I guess moving them all over the place I messed them up. Once the gas dries up I'm going to crawl under there and take a closer look.
No more fuel leak. I fired the motor up. It won't idle below 1100 rpm. I need to time it right. Like an idiot I just remembered I forgot to remove the spout. Well It runs and sounds good. I will work the bugs out.
The inside is starting to take shape. What a pain in the ass it is to hide all these extra wires.
I also moved the fan controller and the diagnostic connector inside the car.
First look at the guages installed.
Well no numbers. I was having a slow start problem. I had it to one shop and they said it was fixed. It was better but not right. Steve @ Thunder said it was strarting like it had too much timing, but it doesn't. You unplug the TFI module and it cranks faster but still not right. We tried another ECM still no go. He said it just didn't sound right when it was running. It also was popping from the tailpipes. I left the car with him to hopefully fix it. If not I will either be burning it to the ground or pushing it into a canal.
More to come soon.
Here's a couple of teasers. More then likely I won't be there when it's tuned so this is all I have.
Click to watch video.
The distributor was bad. Car is done. It put down 396HP 402TQ.
I can't pick it up until tomorrow. Graph to follow.
Yes I did put in a brand new Davis Unified Ignition Distributor. It was bad out of the box. I'm sending it back for warranty.
Correct no port work. Just a custom cam and kick ass engine built by Woody @ Fordstrokers.
I'm very happy with the #s.
The car pulls nice. I still have a few bugs to work out.
When I was installing everything I had to remove the right side header a few times. In the process I tore the gasket. I got a set of fel-pro header gaskets. I've read the BBK ones are junk. I almost changed the left side too, but said to myself, it's on there just leave it. Well the left side gasket is leaking. I guess I will be changing that out now.
Here's the dyno graph.
I do have Fel-pro gaskets, but I think they are a different. I think on 1415 the port size is for a stock head. I forget the part # I have but it was for a bigger exhaust port of an aftermarket head.
Putting on the finishing touches. Couldn't of done it without my buddy Joe!
Thanks guys. Here's a few pictures.