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1942 Ford Fordor Revival
Compliments of edhd58 @ aaca.org
I'll call this a revival beacuse it's not going to be a restored to original car. I'm taking liberties, somewhat. I'm trying to go pretty much OEM parts, trying to buy NOS parts when I can. I just found the engine is going to have to be completely overhauled, so that's gonna put a little bump in the road to running/driving. The whole car had a medium coat of surface rust, making me slowly sand the entire car down to metal, the epoxy primer with 2K primer on top of that. This past weekend I had it outside and pressure washed the underhood area, and scraped what the pressure washer wouldn't take off. That took about 4 hours, but it will be worth it in the end. Heres some of the pics I have accumulated so far, and i'll take more and post as I get things done.
The picture in the front yard is when I first got it home. The pic with the dog house off is the way it is at the moment. Waiting to take the engine to the machine shop next week (its supposed to rain here the next three days).
Dropped the engine off at the machine shop, it turned out to be a sunny day after all, and was told it will be a while before they start on it. They've been recommended by several people so I'll wait, it's not like I don't have plenty other things to do.
Went and got the engine from the machine shop to do the tear down to save time and money/. Got it home and got the pistons / rings out of it. It has one cylinder with broken rings, but luckily no real scoring in the cylinder walls. It does however have a couple chips, for lack of a better word, in a couple cylinders. I thought when I first took the head off that I may have done that, but upon closer inspection there are a couple places so far down in the cylinders I couldn't have done them if I had tried to. Got out the digital calipers and checked the cylinder bores, dead on 3.300 inches - std bore. Crank looks really good, I think just polished will do. Here's a funny thing I found though, every connecting rod is stamped on the rod and the cap with that cylinders number. It also has two different style pistons in it, in alternating cylinders. I would think Ford wouldn't do that from the factory, I wonder if the engine hasn't been worked on. I am attaching pictures of the pistons, if you look you'll see where there are relief slots up top how they are cut different. Plus, three of the pistons say Ford in Ford script, the other three have no writing on them. I am also attaching pictures of the dried sludge crap that is inside the valve spring area, geeeez what a lot of crap. Oh yeah, the pan is full of sludge too.
Well, I guess any progress is progress. I spent nearly 8 hours today taking the doors off and sanding them. That orange color is the result of a vinegar bath, which I was told will stop rust cheaper and as well as the exensive stuff. That info came from youtube from a body shop in Cali - Southwest Rods and Customs, lets hope its good info. Anyway, next week I hope to resand the doors again, clean that dust off, tack cloth them and put a coat of epoxy primer on them.
Wow time flies when you're grinding away rust. I spent 3 hours tonight with a right angle grinder and a wire wheel hitting all the contours of the door jambs, fire wall and window wells and running board wells etc. I think I am finally done with the grinder work on the body, I have to re-check the door edges and all the window trim rings. Went and got the disposable cup system for my spray gun, that'll make it much quicker clean-up. With the weather gonna be raining the next 4 days I won't be spraying any thing but I can be geting ready to late next week. I may catch some heat for this but from the people at Eastwood I bought their rust convertor and rust encapsulator. I'll be using this on the inside of the body and in the wheel wells. Inside the car I plan on using it everywhere it won't be seen. It's going under carpet, behind door panels, under the dash etc etc etc . It's going under the hood too, like on the frame rails and basically all the chassis parts from front to back. the rust encapsulator is an eppxy top coat so my thinking is that it will serve as a good protector of that part of the car, especially no more than it will be out in bad weather. I think the next update will be when I have picture worthy progress. i didn't think anyone would be interested in seeing more pictures of a sanded car.
I know i said I wasn't posting again until I had some good pics, but I have news to report. Had a guy come look at it to give me a guesstimation on paint, and a minor amount of body work. His best answer was $10k would be a start. When I told him I wasn't going to be spending that much on just a paint job and minor body work, he informed me they only do show quality work is why the high guesstimate. The last discussion we had was that after I do all the body work and primer work he'll come back and do another closer guesstimate. Also got a quote on the motor today, $2800, thats a complete engine overhaul from top to bottom, it is going to be higher because that was if he didnt pull all the head bolts out and machine the deck. I've decided to do that too, it just isn't worth risking all that work and money for a few dollars more. It's going to be another month or so on the engine, but that's life.
The real reason is simply that I don't have $10k to invest in just a paint job. I do agree I'd be afraid to get it out of the garage with a $10k paint job. I feel pretty certain I'll be able to get a good paint job for less than that, it may not be concours show worthy, and that's okay by me.
Okay, I maybe opening a can of worms, but I going to open it anyway. I have had several people come look at my car to paint it, and if from a real body shop they say they;ll only do top quality work, not any weekend driver quality stuff nad teh price starts around 10K$. I am looking for someone in the Guston,KY area which is near Fort Knox. Any one have any one they know and will recommend??
"If black or solid color piece painting probably work." I want it to be a midnight blue body, hood, deck lid and doors and the rest to be a dark charcoal grey. I plan on attending some local shows, only to be proud of what it is and have some fun, not to win any points or money. What I don't want to do is mess it up by letting some idiot that thinks they can spray do a terrible job or pay someone that can spray good too little to do a decent job, or pay more than the car is going to be worth just for the paint job. I maybe am asking to much, but I don't think I am, yet.
Thanks for the info, I have a local auto paint/body supplier in teh area. They have been answering questions for me along the way too. The my idea of good and the body mans idea being two different things is why I want a real body/paint guy to do the work. that difference in ideas is why some of them wont do anything less than show quality -- no room for opinion difference that way they say. I have another guy coming to look at it simetime next week. a neighbor has recommended him, they have a vehicle they are having him paint. We'll just have to wait and see what happens.
ericmac, I fully understand the body shops reasoning and have no argument with them. I am not willing to spend, mostly because I can't afford to, what they need for their paint/body work. What happens is I tell them over the phone "it is not a show car, and I dont want a show car paint job". I send them pictures, and they still want to come look at it. When they see it they price it as a concours show car. I fully and completely , rendunduncy I know, understand why they have to price it that way, but why not tell me before they waste their time and mine coming out to look at it. Oh well, no more pro body shops are gonna be looking at it anyway, I have decided to do it myself. I've worked for a cabinet shop for years and can spray finish just fine. Even though this is different, it's still technique and consistency. I can practice and learn that on this.
I agree Bleach, I want it to be right, but it seems there are many variations of right. The more I spend on something the fewer imperfections I overlook. And it does seem to be going the route of " Otherwise I might as well paint it myself".
I went to a local car show this wekend, (Elizabethtown,KY) and saw many a car there with paint jobs I know I can do. It brought me back to my original train of thought, I want to enjoy showing it in local events, nothing fancy and never gonna worry about points or whatever. If I spend tens of thousands of dollars on this, will I enjoy showing it or be soooo afraid someone might dmamge it by getting to close that I wind up spending more time worrying than enjoying. The wife told me to just plan on when the time comes to get what I need to do it as right as I can (she's good to me that way, lol). The people that have seen what I have done so far have said I am taking the right steps to make it a good looking car, so maybe I can do a better job than I give myself credit for. We'll see soon enough.
I had a great day today, went to the Street Rod Nationals in Louisville.Ky and found a NOS radiator for my car for $150. I think that is a great day.
I would like to ask opinions of you all. I just got my motor back from the machine shop. I intend to paint it. Would it look best painted in pieces then asembled, or should I assemble then paint. Also, of you that have painted engines, what paint works best, is durable to gas, oil etc.?? Should I just go with engine paint made for this motor, it is out there?
Funny you mention color. According to all the literature it should be blue. BUT, early pictures show that it was green when it was in the car, so I am going back green. I kinda wonder if it wasn't an early production car and they were using up left over '41 parts. My machine shop guy said he learned several things about this motor, and he hopes the next 6 flathead he does is a late model -- parts are easier to find.
"I believe the 1942 6 cyl was blue. " Yes ILIKECARS53, the correct color according to all the books is blue on the motor in '42. Mine was green when I pulled it, and just because it was that color to start with I am leaning towards re-painting it that same color, just because I can not because it's right.
Got the engine set back in this afternoon. Its just setting there but its back in the car. I'm still working on all the bolt on pieces, oil filter - wire loom etc. I am doing those and bolting them on as I get them finished. I won't post again until some major progress is accomplished but getting the motor back in was a big joy for me and I just had to show it.
Okay guys I have a problem. Bob Drake and every other supplier of the battery tray for early Ford's say their battery tray is for 41 - 48 Ford cars. My tray is nothing like theirs, and I do not know why. Theirs won't come close to bolting up to my chassis. My option is to make my own battery tray, which I am in the process of doing. Lucky for me I have a welder friend that has scrap metal the right gauge to do this, and he will help me when it comes time to weld it all together. The shaping of the metal wont be to bad, just time consuming. What I keep trying to figure out is why my tray and theirs is so different, and what theirs really does fit.
Below is a picture of where my tray bolts to the chassis
On the picture below does anyone have any idea what was the thin sheet metal that was riveted to the from of the battery tray mount??
I thought about that, but the new one cost $85 and I think thats a lot for a piece of sheet metal thats about 12x13 inches square. It's not gonna be a big deal to make one out of the sheet metal piece I get. I called it scrap but its a good new piece of metal, just a piece he cut off of something else. I'd rather use the money to but something else I can't make. The old brackets are fine, I even got a small sand blast cabinet to clean up all the smaller metal pieces, it's a lot quicker and better at getting into the corners than a wire brush. The brackets are in one of the pictures repalced on the chassis so I can tack weld the tray in place when its shaped. My friend will then finish weld it at his shop, its easier to take it to him than him bring his stuff to me.
Well, its been a while since I posted anything. Work has been slowly continuing as I've been working 55 to 60 hours a week. I did find out that the battery tray is engine specific. The V8 wont work for the 6 because of manifold interference. Any way....... I did get the brackets off the old battery tray and made my own, it's not gorgeous and beautiful, but I think it'll be just fine. The newest adventure is finding a fuel pump (original type) for the engine. The fuel pump HAS to be for the G series engine I have found out. My pump is old and all the rubber etc has dry rotted and cracked to pieces. There are many kits out there, but none of them have seem to have the cup that fits below the diaphragm and keeps fuel (or oil?) from running out the bottom of the pump. I am posting a picture of the battery tray, again it's not professional, but hey a battery is going to be covering most of it.
Well guys, I just couldn;t stand it anymore. NO water in it, I am waiting on a thermostat, but I had to hear it run. I also did it so I can make sure it doesnt draw moisture in the cy
Well guys I just couldn't stand it anymore. I had to get it running because of how humid it is here lately, I didn't want to risk the cylinders drawing condensation and maybe flash rusting. I did oil them heavily, but I'm a worrier. Anyway, no water in it I fired it up yesterday, and it sounded excellent. I ran it several times about 30 seconds each time and let it cool about 10 minutes between times. That was yesterday, flash forward one day. All hell broke loose today. Got everything to fire it up and run it a while. Put in a set of mechanical gauges and had filled it up with antifreeze solution 50/50. I had no worries about what I had done leaking. I was just finishing the oil pressure line when I hear a dripping sound. Once I got out of the car I see green under the engine. As I get to the front of the car all hell broke loose, 4 gallons of antifreeze is pouring onto the garage floor. I don't know how many gallons this thing holds down to the bottoms of the freeze plug, with the radiator full to the bottom of the neck, but it's all over my floor. The rear freeze plug on the driver side fell out. I just don't have the heart to mess with it tonight, I'll tackle it tomorrow.
Oh yes, i definately count my blessings. Bleach, I didn't put them in, the machine shop that did the rebuild will. I am going to go back, clean the openign good, I read somwhere to use aviation Permatex, and reinstall it. I am also going to hit the others a time or two to flatten them out a little more too. Other than the flood, everything else went good.
just a quik video of it fianlly running with no leaks. Valves sound noisy in video but arent bad in real life.
Well CRAP. Took the car out to wash it to get ready to put on some more primer. I was letting it idle to come up to temp while washing it. At some point the oil pump quit. I dont know how long it idled with no pressure, but it never made any unusual noises. Guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend. Damn, I hate this. It hasnt ran 3 hours since the rebuild.
Last night all I had time to do was unhook the gauge tubing and start it to see if I had pressure to the fitting, I didn't. I did use compressed air in the oil jacket to make sure it wasn't plugged, it wasn't. With everything unhooked I started it to see if oil would squirt out of the engine, it didn't. I have a few things to check tonight. I'll keep the stats updated as I go along.
Well, its official the oil pump came apart. As you can see from the picture I was able to get the front cover off the engine to expose the crank,camshaft and oil pump drive gears. The oil pump drive gear shaft should be snug in its housing, its not, it is loose and you can rattle the gear around a little. you can move the gear forward and backward and just in general rattle it all over the place. Next step is to find out if I have to pull the motor or if I can just raise the engine and drop the oil pan. I am tempted to just go ahead and pull the engine so I can have ample room to work with what ever I get in to repairing the oil pump.
Bleach, yes the machine shop that did all the rebuild work assembled all moving parts. All I had to do when I got it home was install the head, cam gear, oil pan and other outside the engine parts. The oil pump was rebuilt and installed by the machine shop, and yes I'll be calling them. I dont think anything has been hurt, the engine never got over 100 to 110 degrees and except for the day it was idling while i was washing it, the engine hasnt ran more than 15 to 20 seconds at a time while i saw if what i was doing solved the oil pressure problem.
Well I've made progress. Today I painted the body, doors, hood and deck lid. All in all I'm happy with it. there is some dust in the paint, but that's my fault, I had two people look at it that knows paint, they say when I color sand it everything should be fine. If not I have more than enough paint to do another coat, making sure to not do what I did do this time, not tack cloth it before painting. Yes I had the tack cloth, even had it handy and made sure I had it before I masked everything, I just got ahead of myself and forgot to do it.
It's actually a medium dark blue, which turns out to be a mid 50s Hudson color, Boatswain Blue.
Bleach, the solution to the oil pump was to have the inner gears machined to the same height, then have the body machined to a end gap of 5 to 8 thousand. All in all after that I feel like the 5w30 I had in it was too thin for the worn pump to pick up. anyway, 40 to 45 psi idling now at 190 degree water temp.
I started color sanding it last night, it looked good until the sanding showed me just how uneven good looking paint is. I have a feeling I am going to be very happy after all the sanding is done and its all polished up.
about the oil pressure. According to the local "tractor" guy that know a lot about this type oil pump, I am going to be running "probably a little higher than Henry had it when it was new" because my clearances are "probably" tighter than new. I have several hours on the motor now, its still around 40 at first start, then drops to about 30 to 35 when hot with 20W50 oil in it. The only way I can find straight 30W (Ford recommended), is by the quart and its about 5$ quart, I was told not to put anything less than 20W in it, . Revved it makes about 60 pounds of pressure. I think I am going to get a tach in the near future, just for kicks and giggles.
Well fellows, I have bad news. I am not satisfied with the way the paint looks. A wind storm came up as I was painting and because it was a garage job, more dust than I care to put up with got into the paint. I have color sanded several times to try to make it look right, but I just am not willing to let it be. I do have to say, first paint job I ever have done, and when hand sanding it (first time ever) with paint on I used too coarse a grit paper, and used my hand as the backer-- BIG MISTAKE. I have now DA scuffed it all back down (except the roof) and will in the next day or so spray it again. This time only one door will be open, it will only be open enough to let a fan blow some of the fumes out. Also, i just can not come to like the grey fenders so it will all go blue. I am going to have to buy more paint, but that is little sacrifice compared to spraying it a color scheme I just do not like.
I will post this in the Technical section also, but I need help with the seat springs, each spring has a burlap sock over it, do I need to redo EACH sock and recover EACH spring?
Also -- what is the best and quickest way to get all of these old socks off each spring -- i know the best and quickest may not be the same method, but I do not need to be told to light then on fire, I know better than do it that way.
Thanks for all your support
Okay folks here are the latest re-paint pics. The fenders are just a hair lighter than the body so as soon as i get more paint (Monday) i will put a couple more coats one them. The body has 6 coats and the fenders have 3 ( i ran out of paint, because of the repaint from color sanding it with too coarse a grit paper. I will be getting all the other pieces ready for paint this week and hope to spray them next week. Hopefully by then I will have the fender welting and get the body all bolted back together permanently. I'm very happy with the way it turned out this time.
Read his paper and did the Fahrenheit to Celsius conversion. According to his writing the oil recommended by FoMoCo for the car (30W) is incompatible in that its optimum operating range is 201 -222 degree Fahrenheit. The car will never be in that range unless its running hot. It was an interesting read though.
Another fact to take into consideration is the pump configuration. This pump is hung above the oil not submerged in the oil. It has to have a heavier film clinging to the gears after shut down to make a seal to make the pump provide suction. Earlier in this blog the oil pump failed causing me to pull the engine and have a local machine shop machine unavailable parts to rebuild the pump. What was discovered after many hours of searching and $$$ having parts machined was --- this pump has to run thicker oil because of its design. When the pump failed -- actually all it did was failed to pick up the oil because the 5w30 oil I was using then was to thin to provide a good seal after shutdown.
Even after rebuild the pump would not pick up 5W30 or water or any liquid, I had the pump out of the engine trying to make it work.
While researching what could possibly be wrong at that point is when I was directed to the local tractor guy, because as one old timer noted "Hell, looks like an old Ford tractor pump to me". Turns out it is an old Ford tractor pump, this design is used in the 9N and 2N Ford tractor. This is when I found the part I was unable to purchase for the "car" was in stock at the local Ford tractor shop - as a 9N tractor part. This old timer told me he had rebuilt many many of the pumps and told me to never run anything less than 20w oil in it because of its design -- thus the 20w50 in it now. After I get several more hours on the engine I will buy the 30W oil and run it.
As you can tell from the recent posts oil pressure is no longer a problem.
trying to make the pump, fresh from rebuild, pick up liquid. It has to be spun extremely fast to make it work because thin liquid does not provide any seal in the pump.
Have an update, well kinda. This thing has taken so many turns for the worst. The paint when all was said and done, turned out to be 2 completely different shades of Blue. Good new there is that the paint supplier replaced the paint and chemicals I had purchased, a 1/2 gallon of color + stuff. I went ahead and had a full gallon of color made up so I can guarantee the whole thing, assembled, will be painted at the same time so it will all be the same color.
My stepson works for a NIssan dealership and talked to the collision center boss and he agreed to paint it since there will be no body work done. That WAS supposed to happen this next week.
NOW, more bad news, I drove it a little way down the road to a friends house, just cause it was a really nice day, I had JUST gotten the generator converted to 12 volts and it was charging correctly and wanted to drive it at speed a little. As I was leaving his house to return home I attempted to take off when something POPPED loud in the rear end, 2nd time for this. Turns out, again, I have broken pinion and ring gear teeth. The rear in it now is a used I got a couple years ago, because the original had the same issue.
Now, kinda sorta good news, I never got rid of the original rear end, I am going to tear it down and see about having it rebuilt. If I have to much trouble finding someone I may attempt it myself. It doesn't look too hard and I do have access to a press with ability to make a specialty tool or two if I need to. I told my wife you never get rid of anything till the project is done.
Thank you Bleach. Yeah, I bought a used one last time, and I just don't know if it was weak or what. Like you say I know after this it should be bullet proof. I just ordered everything, just over $600 of stuff. Gear set from Speedway, on sale and saved $50, everything else was in a kit from Mac's. I stepped up to a higher 3.55 gearing, I figure this will make it a little more cruise friendly. Plus as torquey (is that a word) as this engine is I think it will be fine even on the lower end. It had 3.78 gears so its not a huge jump I don't think. Crap, as I am writing this I realize I need to order the E-brake cable and misc stuff that goes with that. Oh well it's not like I didn't need other stuff too, I better go order that stuff while I am thinking about it.
Its been a while since I posted anything here. I've been working 55 and 60 hour weeks lately with not much time I felt like doing anything once I got home and ate supper. I will be getting this thing painted as soon as I get the rear end back end and the body shop says its ready, I now have 3 people lined up in case each one says they cant do it now.
If you may have looked on a couple other forums you may have noticed I tore the teeth off the pinion gear in the rear end. It took two tries but I got the correct gears from Speedway and got all the other parts from Mac's Auto Parts. I also decided to go with 3.54/1 gears in the rear instead of the stock 3.78/1 gears. I have been told this will help a lot on cruising with modern traffic when I have to.
I couldn't find anyone local to overhaul the rear end so I had to do it myself. It really isn't hard, just time consuming with all the put togethers and take aparts.
I decided to leave the wishbone in the car and only swap rear axle assemblies. It took a while but I have the axle assemblies swapped but have yet to get the brake drums on, It seems asbestos brake linings WILL absorb moisture and cause them to swell a little, they were stored in a barn and not wrapped in any way. They are also the brake linings that were on the original axle, and look like at least 50 years old. The are still on the backing plates that were in the car when I took that rear end out because it had bad ring gear teeth.
I am now wondering if this is a weak point in the rear end, two out of two rear ends fail!! BUT i was attempting to bark the tires when I messed up the 2nd rear end. I have new brake shoes and will install them on both side, I also have new drums for the original hubs (under drum hubs) but found I have to get the studs out because they are the "swedged" bolts. I am going to look and see if I can update to new bolts that do NOT require the drums be "swedged" on the hubs. I think swedged is the correct term. Anyway, the bolts have shoulders that have to be swollen and hold the drum in place and takes a special tool to do that and another tool get the drum off the hub.
One picture is the original 42 rear end which has zerk fittings to grease the hub bearings, the others are simply that same assembly disassembled and reassembled. The later rear axle assembly does not have those zerk fittings. That is one reason why i overhauled the earlier rear axle assembly
Got it back from the upholsterer Sunday, been working on it almost every waking minute since. I am happy with how it turned out, even if it did take a month longer than expected. getting the dash back together and almost ready to put it in. i have installed an electric wiper motor, but I need new wiper towers the old ones are seized solid.
Its been a while since I posted and I have made a little progress. i cant load too many pics at once soooo....... a few posts for pics. I did get a new (had the paper hang tags on the knobs - well part of the hang tags anyway) radio front installed.
I also am now street legal, Wifey got the tags Saturday, bless her heart, and today I had her follow me to verify the speedometer. It's off a tad, at 60 on the car her 2013 Tundra is sowing right at 55. and I later took it out and ran it up to 70 and cruised a while at that speed, because the motor sounded fine not straining any. oil pressure HOT (190) is 30 at idle and 50+ revved (I'd guess 2500 RPM). The electric gauge is pegged but the mechanical is showing just over 50 setting in the drive way revving the engine to see the hi and lows.
The trim rings on the car is the final look. I am going minimalist on the exterior. I'm just a plain kinda guy. The bumpers were tooooo far gone to think about doing anything with, plus I just don't have the extra money at the moment.
Oh yeah, almost forgot , i put in new king pins bushings and both tie rod ends, not the front end is all nice and tight. It aooears the original (maybe) bushings were still in it. Maybe. And I did paint it all black before it got put back together.
it made its first real road trip Saturday.
Approximately an hour away was the NSRA Street Rod Nationals in Louisville, KY.
The trip there was uneventful, the trip home was anything but that.
The car has never overheated before, but did after sitting idling in traffic for 30 to 45 minutes (heat of the day leaving). It reached a little over 210 and blew coolant out of the radiator all over the motor. It has the no pressure radiator cap.
This caused the engine to start misfiring as the distributor was now soaked.
I got it pulled over into a store parking lot and found the fan belt loose and now soaked.
To make a long story short I did finally get it back home under its own power. I now need to find out why the generator moved or why the fan belt loosened.
I also need to find out why the speedometer is close to right at 55 but way off at 60 mph. It shows 60 mph at 55 but show 75 at 60 mph.
If you notice it has no side mirrors, that is something I decided on the way up has to change.
Well, its been a while. A bunch has happened. Some has probably been my own doing.
The trans had a bad growl in first gear, and the clutch has had a bad shudder, and there's the overheat thing which I never addressed yet. I pulled the motor and trans a couple weeks ago and had them torn down to see what i could find. The trans had a rough gear on the cluster gear. That gear alone was nearly 300$ new. I found a used trans close by that had excellent looking gears for $60. I called and talked to Mr VanPelt and had them send the new gaskets and seals and as soon as I can get the front seal out of the input shaft tube. I'll have all new gaskets and seals in the trans.
As for the bad clutch shudder, I guess I never heard it until iI put the car all back together. There were so many noises driving around in just the body shell. I knew the engine rear main had a small leak and i attributed the shudder to oil had gotten on the clutch disc. When I got everything apart everything was discolored and there were what looked like some burnt spots on the pressure plate and flywheel. I also think some of the grease I had put on the throw out bearing may have gottten slung onto the flywheel/pressure plate. I am cleaning off ALL of that grease before it goes back together. In getting everything ready to reassembly I lightly sanded the pressure plate and flywheel. The dark spots came off pretty easily. Under a dark spot on the flywheel and one on the clutch disc is a small gouge. nothing I think to worry about, its that small. I just wonder what could have gotten in there and did that. The colors on the flywheel in the picture is my orange shirt reflection, and the grey at the bottom of the pic is the reflection of the bell housing inside edge
I haven't attempted to deal with the overheat issue. I am going to reinstall every thing, and rework how the fan belt tension is controlled and start from there.
There is one pic of the oil pump setup just for those that have never seen the G 226 oil pump. Its part of the front main bearing cap. Exactly like the Ford 2N and 9N tractors,
Anyway, here are a few pics of what I have been up to. Now i am waiting on the clutch disc, and for me to get that front seal swapped to put it all back in.