25.3 Outlaw Drag Radial Camaro Build by Eddie Krawiec

By diyauto

130 minute read

( 3 )

25.3 Outlaw Drag Radial Camaro Build 

Compliments of Eddie Krawiec @ http://ls1tech.com


Hi Guy's

This is my first post here. I'm just starting a build and would think it fit's in good right here. I have been watching this site for about 2 years now and thought it was time to join. Just to give you a little backround on myself. I race NHRA Pro Stock Motorcycle and travel the country doing it. I also love to build cars and really enjoy doing it.

I'm in the process of building a Pro Touring 66 Nova with a 408ci LS2 with a Kenny Bell Blower that made 776 hp on pump gas. That car is covered by Super Chevy and called Project Getaway for anyone wanting to check it out. I also have a Trailblazer SS and a Sierra Pick-Up as a daily driver. So if you can't tell I'm a GM guy. I always have been and always will be.

I know a lot of people including me love to watch and follow car builds, so that's why I'm posting this.

I have been looking around for a stock suspension F-Body to build an Outlaw Radial car for some time now. Dennis of DMC Racing contacted me and offered to get me out to his shop and see what he is capable building. Needless to say DMC is well known has built some of the baddest stock suspension cars out their.

So 3 weeks ago I flew out to his shop to look at my options. He had started a build on a Camaro that was put on hold and the guy was going to sell. It was a very low mile 2000 Camaro that had some cage work done and was perfect for what I wanted. So Dennis, Jamie and the whole crew at DMC got to work on it. After a lot thought we decided to set the car up with a 454ci LSX Small Block with a single turbo on 275 tire's. I will have the option of a 315's and a large turbo if I chose to go and run some of the Outlaw type races or just want to go faster.

As of now I have some really cool things in the works that will be giving the build some major media coverage and will showcase the build. I also have a few companies getting heavily involved with the build and other that I'm talking to. Anyone that would like to be involved email at eddiekrawiec@gmail.com or PM for detailed info on it. I will try to list all the stuff as we go. So here are some pictures of the project and I will try to keep updating it.


Hey Guy's

Thanks for all the nice words. I'm glad to be here and be a part of the LS Family. It is really cool to see such a group of people that are hard core about the LS motor. This is a build I really look forward to and will try to keep everyone up to date. I should have some more pictures later this week.

Thanks EK


Hey Guy's

Here are a few more pictures. Dennis at DMC is just finishing the updateing the car to the new 25.3 spec. He sent me some shots of the rear and will be sending me some front one's in the next few days. As I get them I will update for everyone to see.

We are hoping to have it done mid summer.

I think some of the set back may be body parts. I want to get a carbon nose and back bumper. I also want to do carbon doors and carbon hatch that still use the stock hing set up and not a lift-off type. I just want it to be light weight stuff and still look stock. I have a Van Overbeek Hood so I'm good their. If anyone knows about something like that or has some of his parts for sale please let me know

As for Goal's

I just want it to run and drive. LOL

We are not sure set up in 275 trim. The motor combo I'm thinking about doing is not really to good for a 88mm Turbo.

Now with a 106mm and a set of 315's I would think it should have enough power to go 7.30's or better. Saying it is easy we just have to get it to do it.

The deal is I just want it to run well and have fun. EK


Dragzine.com did a little story on the build.

Take a look.



So I'm I!!!!!

I have a few people getting involved and want to make sure they all get credit. That is why I'm being tight with it. I should be able to let people know next week on who will be doing it and with what parts.

Thanks Ed


Hey Guy's

I'm still working on some updates and pictures. I do however have some great news on the coverage. Brian Lohnes from Bangshift.com has come aboard with media support on the build. Bangshift.com will be posting updates even before I can on the build. The reason why I say before me is Brian is 5 minutes from the car and will be doing weekly updates or in some cases daily one's. To tell you the truth I will be using his site to watch the build process since I live 900 miles from where the car is. So check it out.


I also have picked up some really great supporters of the build. Since I have not finalized some of the details on them all, I will only list what I have set in stone.

ATI Performance Products = I will be using their Superglide 4, Pro Mod Torque Converter, Super Dampner and Flexplate on the build.

CP Pistons = Custom Turbo Pistons

Carrillo Rod = Custom H-Beam Rods

I also have some Media getting involved in the build. Be sure to check out stories on the following sites. I do have other one's that I will list and update everyone in time.


Thanks to everyone that is supporting and following my build. The build is going to be almost as exciting racing it.


Thanks Guy's

It was great talking to you also Sean (if my memory is any good). I'm working on it as much as I can. Dennis at DMC Racing build some of the nicest stuff out their. It's coming a long.

Here are a few of the older pictures that I had sent to me. This was when it was done as a 25.5 chassis. It was a shame to cut out some of Dennis great work but it is all going back togeather now. Next week Bangshift.com will be posting a huge update. I'm in the final stages of the engine combo and parts that are getting used on it. So keep your eyes out next week for them. I will try my best to post it over here but next week is the first week of my race season and I'm going to be busy. If I get a chance I will let you all know when it goes up.

Full size one's

Their are others to get added. To tell you the truth the door bars were cut out and larger one's added with a X in the roof. All around the top got larger 1" tube for supports and their were others put under the car. We are making the car legal for a 25.3 cage build. A 25.5 is only good for 7.50's and we plan on going faster then that in the future. Thanks Ed


Well as some may know I'm in the process of building a 2000 Camaro Drag Radial Car. I have gotten lot's of email's from people wanting to know the details. As anyone that has built a car knows it is tough to get it all sorted out when you are starting from scratch. What I did know from the start was that Dennis and his crew over at DMC Racing were building the car. That was the easy part and now I had all the time consuming things to do.

Well every project needs a name. So with the help some friends the name I chose is RADIAL-ation. Brian Lohnes from Bangshift.com is the actual one that came up with it and I feel it fit well. So after the name my next step was to get a rendering done so I can send it out to media people or companies who will penitently help with support of the build. So I contacted Greg Zoetmulder of GregZ Design and had him whip me something up and here is what we came up with.

The car be will be powered by a 439ci LS Series small block sporting a single Billet Wheel 106mm turbo. To make sure I come up with the best possable drive train combo I'm working very close with Don Bailey and Billy Briggs. The car will also be tuned by Don and Billy will be assembling the motor. While all motor details are not final I can tell you what I do know. The base foundation of the engine will be a RHS Tall Deck Aluminum block prepaired by Charlie Weston of Weston Machine. On top will be a set of Performance Inductions new generation Canted Valve Moses Heads. The heads will be furnished with Xceldyne Titanium Intake and Inconel Exhaust Valves and will have PSI Springs holding them in place. Jesel Valvetrain Innovation will be supplying the rocker shaft system, keyed .937 lifters, Tapered Pushrods and belt drive with a distributor mounted on top. Inside the engine will be CP TurboPistons connected to Carrillo H-Beam Rods being spun by a Billet Center-weighted Winberg Crankshafts. A Dailey Engineering SP Series pump will be getting the oil through the motor while their Billet Aluminum pan keeps it all in. Finally it will all balance out with a ATI Super Dampers up front and the 2000+ HP going through the ATI SuperGlide 4 Transmission in the rear.

As I mentioned earlier DMC Racing will be building the chassis to NHRA 25.3 specs to make sure it keeps me safe. For the base foundation of the build I will be using a new state of the art design chrome moly light weight front end and chrome moly fabed rear end supplied by Midwest Chassis & Performance. DMC will be using their own custom design for the rear suspension and torque set-up. On all four corners will be Mickey Thompson Wheels and Tiresmaking sure the car hooks up.

I hope everyone enjoys watching and following my build and I will try to update it as much as possable. As you all know these builds take time and some weeks things will go fast and others take longer then expected. I also have been working hard on getting some great media coverage for the build so you will be seeing it pop up on many of the performance web sites, chat boards and even some published magazines. So keep your eye out for it and as the saying goes " Rome wasn't built in a day". Thanks Ed

Special Thanks to the following Project Supporters

DMC Racing
Billy Briggs of Motorcity Speed
Don Bailey
ATI Performance Products
Midwest Chassis & Performance
Jesel Valvetrain Innovations
Performance Inductions
CP Pistons
Carrillo Rods
Winberg Crankshafts
Dailey Engineering
RHS / Comp Cams

Anyone interested in being involved with the build feel free to contact me at
eddiekrawiec@gmail.com for more info on media coverage or involvement.

It has been some time since I updated with some info and wanted to post some pictures of parts that I have gotten in the past few weeks.

Here are some pictures of the 4.100 Stroke Billet Winberg Crankshaft. It was superfinished to a 1RA finish.

My Turbo. It's a Billet Wheel 106MM

Close up of the wheel

Just to get an idea I put my CP Piston in it. I guess you would call it a turbo piston.LOL

Next up are the CP Piston. CP built me the best that they have. They are 4.128 Bore size.

Top and bottom

Side Shot

I did a little work making sure their are no sharp flash points on them. Time that will be well spent and worth it before they get a coating put on to them.

A little before and after

Holding the Pistons will be a set of 6.450 H-Beam Carrillo Rods. In the design process we made sure that the beam area will be strong enough to hold up to 2000+ HP.

Letting the air in will be Xceldyne Titanium 2.250 Intake Valves and letting it out will be 1.600 Inconel ExhausttValves. The Intake side has a CRN Moly Coating to keep things slick.

I will be sure to post some more things in the next few days and keep everyone updated as much as I can. Thanks for looking.


the car will never make it out this season. I will plan on testing with it around Jan. Waiting on all the motor stuff really put it behind and I'm not going to rush it. Next year I have plans on running some of the races but not until I feel it running the way it should.


The reason for the steel rod is I chose to work with Carrillo. I feel a steel rod will last a lot longer then a aluminum one. It also has a lot less stretch and movement going on. These should be well more then what is needed to handle 35 + LBS of boost as long as the tune-up is correct. We both understand how much that means in any motor. A turbo is really not that hard on the rod. More people think it would be worse but it always has a smoother and more even pressure load on it vs a NOS motor. Speaking to Carrillo they fell the turbo is not that hard on rods.

A lot of engine builders are going back to steel rod. Heck Pro Stock Car are running a 1.8 journal pin reving them to 10,600+ and have 0 issues. They were going through aluminum rods every 30-50 laps and now their are guys running the whole year on 1 set of steel rods with 100+ runs.

As for the reluctor wheel. I will not be using it to fire the motor but I can still put a sensor on it and do other things with it. It can come off very easy but shouldn't be in the way.

I will be using a external wheel. I just have the one on the crank incase I ever wanted to use it for something down the road.

To tell you the truth I'm kinda unsure on that. I had a Magneti Marelli unit I was going to use but I'm still not sure on it yet.

I have looking at the Motec M800 or Big Stuff. Their are +'s and -'s for each unit. I also have 1 or 2 other options of working with some very high end stuff but I don't know if I have time needed to really help them get up and going. I will really need to get moving soon on it since I want to run this thing on the dyno by November.


Well I must say it really feel's like Christmas, but in July.

Today I got some more of the parts I have been waiting for. The first thing I got is the base of the whole motorbuild.

My new RHS Block fully machined by Weston Machine in NJ. Charlie is know for doing some of the best machine work bar none. He machines almost every NHRA Pro Stock car block out their. He also does a lot of LS stuff. So anyone looking for machine work check him out at http://www.westonmachine.com. Here are some pictures and what I had done.

The RHS block

Side Shot

Cylinder Shot

Under Side

O-Ring Done

I also had Weston Machine do the bushed lifter bores to run the Keyed .937 Jesel Lifters. When it comes to lifters they are the best. I will be using 8 center and 8 offset .150 to make sure the push rod angle stays stright.

Take a look.

Bushings from the side

Picture from the top

Box of lifters

Lifter Shot

After I got the block I learned that no one offered a belt drive system for the RHS block. Since I was already working with the Danny Jesel and Bob McDonald from Jesel I had them build a belt drive set-up for me. This system is now offered as a stock item and anyone can call up and buy one.

Their is some machine work required to make the back plate work but it is well worth it. I just can't trust a chain spinning this thing at 9,000 + RPM. Here are some pictures of the very first Jesel RHS Belt Drive.

Back Plate

Machined Block for plate to fit

Belt Drive Set-Up with cogs

Belt Drive shown with optional distributor Set-up

I have a few more items but everyone will just have to wait until I find a little more time to get them up. I plan to try and update everyone as much as I can. Thanks for following.


Well got some more stuff in today. Today it's body parts and thanks to Joe Van O for getting them to me. They got here a lot sooner then I thought.

I got the Gel Coated Carbon Fiber Wing and Carbon Fiber Front Nose. These things are really nice and it looks like just a wet sand would be needed and they can be sprayed. The nose is 4lbs and the wing is 1 1/2.


The chassis is just sitting waiting on a rear end housing and wheels. Once I have those 2 items it can be done with all the basic fab stuff.

What I really need is the motor sitting in the rails so all the turbo, headers and misc stuff can be done. I will try to get some updated pics up soon on the car end of things. It's just that DMC is so busy right now I really don't want to bother Dennis to take pictures of it until I have most of the stuff into it.

The chassis is just sitting waiting on a rear end housing and wheels. Once I have those 2 items it can be done with all the basic fab stuff.

What I really need is the motor sitting in the rails so all the turbo, headers and misc stuff can be done. I will try to get some updated pics up soon on the car end of things. It's just that DMC is so busy right now I really don't want to bother Dennis to take pictures of it until I have most of the stuff into it.


Well I just got anouther box from Jesel. This one was my Pro Series Rocker Shaft System for the PI Mozez Heads. Thanks to all the hard work the Jesel guys are putting into my project. Anyone that is looking to get Cary's new heads Jesel will also be stocking these to make sure there is not a long wait. I went will all the options like, bearing tips, shoot peen finishing, ball tip adjusters and all ARP 2000 bolts. The one thing I didn't go with was the lightening grooves or MoHawk cut. I wanted the strongest rocker body and really didn't feel the savings of 8 grams on each was worth risking breaking one. Check them out.

Bases and rockers

Top Shot

Bearing tips

Shoot Peen Finish

Ball Tip Adjusters


I went and picked up my fuel pump today. I got a Waterman pump that will be driven off my cam. I still need to fab up some brackets to make work but just thought I would post a picture or 2 of it. I hope to have a few more things next week so keep a look out.


That weekend I will be here in Indy racing myself at the US Natl's.

If I didn't have a race I would have thought about shooting down for it. It's only 3 hour ride at most for me and would have been a fun day. Maybe next year I will make it with the car.


Well I got my Performance Induction Mozez Heads in today. I know a lot of people wanted to see them. Their have been some little misc shots floating around but I do have them. Cary did a awesome job and the came out killer. This is the head that will change the LS RACE MOTOR forever. Here they are along with some flow #'s


.300 225 127
.400 310 170
.500 368 206
.600 418 231
.700 438 252
.800 447 265
.900 453 276
1.00 458 287

Here are more.

Never can be to many!

Last Batch of them for now.

These heads as you see make a huge jump and flow 400+ at around .550 and really start to work. Trust me I'm going to try and use evey little bit that I can of it. After getting them on the bench today and checking some things out Cary does a lot of little details that others don't. All the edges and little sharp edges are deburred and cleaned up. Being in the business of racing myself that is something that makes me smile when I look at them. He cares about what he sells. Now I just need my cam and intake and this thing can be almost done.

The chambers are 60cc. I hade Cary do them as large as he could. He might be able to get 62cc out of them but that would all depend on the final decking of it.


Well I got one more piece to the puzzle in the today. The camshaft. It started life as a 60mm core and was turned into what you see by LSM Systems Engineering. This thing is stout. I had a few reasons for going with the larger 60mm core. One being a little stronger resisting flex and the other reason is you can do a lot with the lobe profile and ramps that all help out with the upper parts in the valvetrain. Here are some pictures I took.


This cam will be used for a little test we are going to try. I will have 1 or 2 more done to see what works out best. My plan is to check it and break it in on this one and then try the others. It is a easy and cheap way to see what it likes best.


I'm just working on getting it all done now. My next step will be to get the motor over to DMC Racing and get the whole turbo set-up built. That hopefully will be in the next few weeks.

As far as tune-up. I will be working with Don Bailey. He is well know in the turbo world. He does Dave Hance's Drag Radial Car ( has been 6.78 @ 223 ) and Spiro Pappas's 10.5 car and many others. So I have great people on my side to help get it up to speed.

I hope to have some updates in the next 2 weeks. I'm just busy with racing right now. Thanks Ed


Sorry guys for the delay on updates. It has just been tough with the last few races.

However the motor is being built this next week and I hope to have the intake next week sometime. The picture stuff has taken longer for the reason of a magazine article that will be written about the motor build. When we get that stuff final I will post some pictures of it all.

I do hope to have a few pictures of the car up very soon. I plan on going to see it in the next few weeks. Thanks for looking and following it. Ed


Well some engine stuff was shipped to me on Wed and I'm just getting a few minutes to post pictures. This is the 7 stage dry sump set up from Dailey Engineering with their billet pan.

This thing is so sweet. It uses a 30% smaller pump that will take off a few pounds from the normal size stuff and the pump also get's bolted right to the pan so no mess with oil lines. It has 4 stages that draw oil from slots in the bottom of the low profile pan. I have 1 stage for a scavage pump on the turbo and 1 extra stage as a vacuum pump fir the top end of the motor.

Take a look

I also got in my Front whels and tires. They are Mickey Thompson Pro 5 Billet wheels. I got spindle mount fronts to save some weight. I'm trying to build this car as light as I can so every little bit will add up in the end. I have spoke to a lot Pro Stock Car guys and they love the Mickey Pro 5 Wheels for the reason of they spin so true and they also look great.


The Sander wheel is great deal for the money + it does have a bead lock on them.

I opted for the Micky stuff since I like them. The Micky wheels are a full machined wheel so it keeps them really true.

What I will be doing is getting a 15 x 12 with 5 1/2 back space and making it into a 15 x 11 with a 4 1/2 back space when the wheel gets the bead lock put on them. This will be the rim I use for a 275 tire and I will have a set of 15 x 12 for the 315 tire but to tell you the truth I might just scrape the idea of 315's and put a smaller turbo on the car from the start. My combo I really don't think will have a chance to run with the top cars in Outlaw trim with the way all the rules are now. That is a whole different topic.

The pump is right at about $2200 for the 7 stage and the pan is roughly $1600. So the whole set up like mine is $3700... I'm sure if you called Dailey and spoke to them Bill would be more then happy to build something that will fit your needs. This one has about everything that can be done to it. Most builds will not need this set-up and Bill went a little over kill on it. They were not sure on how it was going to work since the only 2 built were Tom's and mine. You could do away with 2 of the stages and save a good bit but I wanted to have them for future use. As Tom said his is pulling 20in Vacuum at 35 psi of boost. In most cases pumps cant keep up but this set-up really works.


Thanks guy's

I hope my car runs as good as my bike. LOL

Thanks for the support. It is really cool when people stop by at every race and tell me they follow my build on this site. It is truly a great way to get to know some of you.



Thanks Guys

I was at DMC Racing on Thursday checking out the chassis work. I have some pictures of the Midwest Chassis front bolted into the car a long with the 25.3 update. I have them on my phone and have to get some time to download them to here. I'm not at home so it makes it a little tough. I will try to get a few up tonight or later today. Thanks.


Well I got the push rods last week from Jesel. Since the spring pressures are high and they are almost 10 inches long I wanted to make sure they were stout. I got 9/16 centers that tapper down on each end. On the ends are a ball and cup set-up. This will make for a stronger and better fit onto the rocker arms.

Here are some pictures

Next are some chassis things.

Eric from Mid-West Chassis made a killer front end for the car. The fit and finish of this thing is top notch. It bolted right in the car without any type of pulling or pushing of parts. Anyone needing a fron end should really check his stuff out. I also have a Fab rear end that will be going into the car that is also really a top notch part. Here is a few pictures of the front end. I will put some rear shots in a few weeks once it is all bolted in and final fit.


Everyone has asked about the cage work and chassis stuff. It is tough for me to get pictures since the car is at DMC Racing in Halifax, MA and I'm in Indy 900 miles away. Well I took a trip out a few weeks and got this stuff. The cage was done and painted to a 25.5 spec and since it was just sitting for this season I just went and had DMC update now to a 25.3. It just makes sense to do it that way. We have also since then changed the way we are mounting up some things. Here are pictures of the update being done.

Here is a shot of the trunck area. We were doing a fuel tank in the back but now the fuel tank in the back here will be turned into the Ice Box for the intercooler and Trans Cooler. The fuel tank will now be up front and only be a 3 Gal tank.

Now onto some more engine parts. After seeing the work of John Marcella and what he can do to a Intake I didn't have to put any thought into it. I don't know if I even have to say anything about this. The only thing I will say is ENJOY!!!!!


When we started this build my oringal intent was to build it and try and play around with the 315 Radials. Now with the 275 looking like such a great class the car is being set-up for 275 stuff.

I know a lot of people will say that 440ci motor will not work with a smaller turbo but the combo I did I feel will support it. I will be starting out with the 106mm that I have for the car and will be hoping to make it to the Feb ORTC race. Out in the Mid-West all the classes will allow me to run the bigger turbo, but I will mess around with a 88mm to see if I can go the ET's needed then maybe I will run some of X275 stuff if I have time.

I really can't wait. This thing should be a fun car.

DAM!! I'm already getting called out by you NOS Junkies.

Careful what you wish for. When I'm done with you the only way you would be able to laugh is if you take a hit of that NOS yourself. LOL

But being more serious I just hope to have it done sometime in Feb of 2011. You and I both know how long things take. I really thought the motor would have been done in September and it's just being buttoned up next week.

We needed for all the final chassis stuff to be done like placement, headers, charge tubes and all the little BS that goes with it.

We hope this thing will be on the Dyno in 2 weeks. I only hope so then it will be off to DMC Racing to get fitted in the car. Then this thing will get moving faster.


The main reason I feel that 275 might be a great option is you will not have to kill your stuff and not have to tear things up to be up front. I do feel a single can go someplace in the .50's but that will be on kill. I only started with a single since it can race any place out here. So I will stick with it and may go to a smaller one if it opens more chances to race or I just put twins and try to run with some of the big dogs.

Also Indy will be doing some stuff next year so I will just wait and see what happens here. I might just end up running my Billet 106 all the time. It will all come down to the tune up as we all know. I plan on using the big turboto play around for a little bit before I really see what I will do.

We both know it is a bitch to run with a BB with Twins in the outlaw stuff. I would love to see some rules that give singles a weight break that is more then a 100lb less then twins. Then maybe the package would be woth going after.


I really would like to see where all the rules go over this winter. So much talk on the 275 stuff but I really don't know what is going to happen.

All I can say is no matter what they all do no one will be happy. I would love to see the Outlaw Radial class give a single SB set up a nice break and give us a shot.

My plan is to try and get this thing down to 2800lb or less with me in it. That would be a 2600lb car race ready. Now I really can't say if it can be done but I'm getting lot's of parts in carbon or trying to save every little place I can. I guess when it hits a scale in Jan I will know if it can be done.


MORE PARTS!!!!!! I love the UPS guy and no not in that way.

Well back to the chassis stuff. I got my shocks today. I got all 4 coil overs from JRI Racing Shocks. They are top of the line. This is the shock that you would see under some of the Pro Stock Cars and now a few Radial cars out their if you were allowed to look under them. These things are killer. The longer one's are fronts and the shorter ones are the rear. With compression and rebound being key with a radial tire that is whay I went with the JRI.

Here is a picture with out the springs on them. I'm working on getting some Titanium Springs to save on weight. Every little pound counts and Ti springs are close to half the weight of steel.

Here you go.

I spent a lot of time doing this engine combo with Billy Briggs and we are almost at the point of knowing if it will all work out. We are looking to be on the dyno with it before the holidays if it all goes well. Here are a few pictures of Billy putting the bottom end together.


Steel rods are stronger then a aluminum rod, have a longer life cycle and keep tighter tolerances. Why not use them. Everyone only runs aluminum for the reason of that is what everyone says has to be run. When I worked on the design of these with Carrillo we added in the beam area on both the rib and center of the H area to give some extra strength. In the engineering of them we made them to withstand 2500+ HP and 40 lbs of boost and in all the Carrillo programs they pass it no problem. Now I will give them the real world test.

A lot of people think and have in their head that since a turbo makes a lot of power that they are hard on parts. Well if that is you thoughts you are wrong. As long as the tune up is correct it is the least out of any combo and NOS is the one that really is hard it.

When Pro Stock car switched a few years ago to steel some of the guys said they wouldn't last a race and they were right they lasted the whole season and won the Championship. That was in the top car at the time and now all but 2 or 3 run steel rods.

Also on other thing I wanted to add to the steel rod part of it.

I went with a tall deck block and a small stroke ( 4.100 ) for the reason of getting a longer rod in the motor. It helps with a few things that most don't look at. The #1 thing was to keep the piston in the sleeve on BDC and not side load it that bad. This will help the motor rotate A LOT smoother and also help with the rod and piston wear. The rod angle in this set up will not want to push the wrist pin out the side of the block. The longer rod will also make a longer dwell time at TDC making it strighter up and down when under load. This will help when transfering the cylinder pressures through the H-beam part with less chance of flex or and side load.

I just wanted to add that little bit also.


The car will use the Stock Suspension mounting points. DMC racing has a proven set-up that is under the rear of Paul Majors Corvette. Pauls car at 3500 lbs has been 1.teen 60fts and as fast as 6.72 @ 220+ with his Twin TurboBBC. Since that has a F-Body set up in whay not use it under my car.

Yes, NHRA stuff keeps me busy so I plan to race local when I can. This car will make for fun track days when I'm not out racing on the NHRA Tour.

A lot may think that I'm building this thing on no budget. That couldn't be any further then the truth. If that was the case it would be done. I'm the type of person that would rather sit out for a year and build it right then have to buy stuff 2 or 3 times. I understand a lot of people can't afford to do and either could I without the support of all the companies that helped support my project like

DMC Racing
Billy Briggs / Motor City Speed
Mid West Chassis
Mickey Thompson Wheels and Tires
Mike Moran Motorsports
Performance Inductions / Mast Motorsports
ATI Performance Products
Jesel Custom Shop
Marcella Manifolds
Carrillo Rods
CP Pistons
Xceldyne Valves
PSI Springs
Winberg Crankshafts
Dailey Engineering
Weston Machine
Weldon Fuel Systems
JRI Shocks
Mac Fab Beadlocks

And with out all them I never could have done this. I'm very grateful for the support they have all given me. When you work with the best you want to give them the best and that is what I do.

My attude is if you support me I will support you. It is not just about using the products. It's about using them and helping make them better.

Thanks for all the kind words. EK


The rear end housing came from Mid West Chassis. He builds really nice high quality parts and I would say anyone wanting a custom part for the price should really look into his products.


The rear will be a Chrome-Moly Full Fab style housing. It has all Strange parts like 40 spline gun drilled axles with lightened hubs, lightweight spool and Pro Series 2 floating rotors with duel caliper and the lightweight aluminum center section. I will most likely have 3.40 gears in it.

As soon as we get it all fitted up I will post some pictures of it.


Well it will not be 8.5:1 range. I will leave all the motor details for the Magazine story. I will let everyone know the details next week on what one etc... I want to make sure everyone has a reason to read the story. It will be a very detailed 4-6 deal page story on the motor build. That is why I haven't given out any details really on it. I will update everyone soon. Thanks



I just wanted everyone to let everyone know that the entire motor build will be in a spring issue of Super ChevyMagazine. We are not sure of the issue date but it will be a detailed story and have the dyno results in it. I will let everyone the date when I have it.

I really found out that I have ton of interest in the results of not just the motor but the build of the car after attending the IMIS show in Indy and the PRI show in Orlando. I couldn't believe how many people knew about the car. I got stopped by many vendors and people who knew who I was just to say they have been following it on here. I really haven't updated many other forums like I have this one but it really shows how many people watch the chat boards.

I hopefully soon will be announcing a few magazines that will cover some of the build of or will be running a feature of the build. Thanks for everyone's support. EK


I couldn't wait but I will get more stuff up in the next week or so. But here it is.

440ci of pure sex !!!!!

I just want to say thanks to all the people supporting this build. It is all just starting to come together.

DMC Racing
Billy Briggs / Motor City Speed
Mid West Chassis
Mickey Thompson Wheels and Tires
Mike Moran Motorsports
Performance Inductions / Mast Motorsports
ATI Performance Products
Jesel Custom Shop
Marcella Manifolds
Carrillo Rods
CP Pistons
CV Products
Xceldyne Valves
PSI Springs
Winberg Crankshafts
Dailey Engineering
Weston Machine
Weldon Fuel Systems
Swain Tech Coatings
JRI Shocks
Mac Fab Beadlocks
KOOKS Custom Headers


Happy New Year all!!!

I just wanted to give a little bit of a update.

I have the motor sitting at DMC Racing and they are getting ready to mount it into the car this week. Once it finds it home they will then start to build the hot side of the turbo system. I can't wait to get it put into the car and get one step closer having done.

Well here is a picture of the front clip of the car removed.

Here is the front motor plate. I got this from FRE Racing
http://www.forresterracingengines.com. The thing that I like most about it is that all the timing cover bolts are used to hold the plate to the motor + the water pump bolts holding it the plate should never have a chance of flexing.

Next is the mid plate. I got this from AEI CNC http://www.aeicnc.com/.
This is the first one they have made like this. For the extra power we added 2 mounting tabs to the top and removed the 2 bolts they put in the left side lower arm. The lower left arm also has a nice kicker in it so it will fit the profile of the 4th Gen F-Body with the way it has the frame rail offset. It is very well made and should do a great job holding the motor.

I hope to have a few pictures of it in the car in the next week or so and will post them as soon as I get them.



Well to tell you the truth yes and no.

As for the Yes part.

I got my new Exile ET-R Ultra Light Modular Competition Series Large Frame 106mm turbo. This thing is really nice and looks like Rick Head really did a great job with it. The housing looks great and fits really nice. I also had it on the scale and it was 9+ pounds lighter then the Precision 106 I have here also. Weight is weight so every little pound will add up in the end. Here are a few pictures. Anyone wanting more info on them can go to www.exileturbo.com

Well as for the progress on the car. Dennis and the whole DMC Racing crew are looking to get the motor in ASAP. The only problem is they all are stuck in 2+ feet of snow with no power. They got hit with a major snow storm over the past 2 days and can't do much about it. Once they get back to the shop and back to work I will have Joseph Staska take a few more pictures as soon as the motor is fitted in the chassis. Here are 2 picture Joseph took in the past week. He does really killer shot and can't wait for him to shoot the car.


Your right we can go in a hack everything off but then!!!!

When I go and race the 275 stuff and other misc classes we don't want the car to fall into any gray areas. Some tracks have rules to prevent you from basically re front halfing the car.

We could have made the front end a tube front clip with stock mounts and frame rails just sitting and doing nothing but it would be a bitch for every race I ever go to on the tech side. This is whay it is done the way it is. We will keep enough to make it work and be stock but be done clean.


Here is a update on the wheels.

I got the Mickey Thompson Pro-5 Wheels. These things are really nice and true as can be. The only issue is they didn't make a beadlock in a 15" wheel. So I contacted Tommy Kirk of Mac Fab Performance & Beadlocks to put a set on. Tommy and I got talking and I told him I didn't want a beadlock that is like the basic rings and he was glad to hear that. So he did a set of R&D rings for my wheels and they came out great. They will be getting polished tomorrow and sent out to DMC Racing to get fitted onto the car.

Check them out.

It's getting closer. Just working on the fab part of the turbo system and waiting on parts. As we get them in they get put on. This stuff just takes so much time to get in and in most of the build process that is what takes all the time. I hope to have a few pictures of the motor sitting in the car soon. I don't want to have them stop anything to take a few pictures.


To tell you the truth I haven't made up my mind 100%. I really just want to put a Big Stuff 3 since I know they are easy to work with and are every where.

However, I have worked with the Motec stuff since we run them on our bikes and I know it. I just don't think I need everything that the box can do so it might be a waste.

I really need to make a choice soon so I can get the parts here so when we go to wire the car I have it all. I will post as soon as I know.


Here are the wheels all polished up and done. I'm so happy with the way they turned out. Mac Fab did a killer job on them and I almost hate having to mount tires on them.


The Intercooler is done and off to get mounted. We had custom one built by Rick Head of Exile Turbo. We will be mounting in a are behind the passenger set. It will be mounted with the 2 charge tubes going in from the bottom. This will allow us to run the tubes on the floor of the car and make 45 degree bends into the cooler. I hate when people have the 2 tubes running through the center of the car. I just doesn't look clean that way in my eyes. I want to run the tubes as close to the floor as I can and try to make them blend in.

Here it is


I wish I could say the car will be ready and finished to race for the event but it will be tough. I'm getting into my busy part of the year so staying on top of this will be a little tough.

What I have been doing is getting Dennis @ DMC a ton of parts so he has what is needed to finish the car on his end. It most likely will roll out of DMC turn key 100% done.

He got the intercooler today and just placed it into the car. You would think it was built for the spot, well it was. Rick at Exile Turbo did a great job and it fit great. I hope to have a few more pictures and updates next week for everyone. Here is a picture.


We are just doing some chassis stuff under the rear of the car and wanted to place my set of 315 Radials under it to see how they look.

Here is a pic. I also have a few other chassis pics to post but have to upload them first. I wil do that later and get them up.


Thanks guy.

Sorry for not doing any updates. We have a ton of work at the shop and projects here at my house and by the end of the day I'm burnt out. I will get hot and heavy into it after Gainesville. I have the Shakedown in Palm Beach this coming weekend and the Gainesville. Then I will have the time to get stuff up.

Thanks Ed


Sorry guys.

Yes progress has been going on but I just haven't had a change to post stuff. I hope to be able to post something late next week. I have been out on the road in West Palm doing testing and trying to get the bike ready for this weekend. Once I get back and get caught up at the shop I will post some stuff.

Thanks for following it and being patient.


Thanks guys. 6.788@199.26 was a fun ride. I'm just happy to have started the year right where I ended last year with a win.

I hope to have some updates next week.


I'm sorry guys for slacking. I've been busy as hell and just have not had time. Just so many hours in a day and I have to use them for what works best at that time. However I do have the time now so I will post a few things. Some of this stuff is old so I will try and keep updating as I can.

I got some more motor stuff. The final parts I were waiting for are here.

ATI Super Damper. It was made with a hub in the rear to run the dry sump setup and is still wide enough for a extra belt if ever needed to run something else. I also had a shell with magnets in it for the crank trigger.

I also got a SFI ATI Super Plate. The flexplates are double MIG/TIG welded for additional strength and to pass SFI specs for safty.

I also got a Wilson Billet 105mm Throttle body with a V-Band setup. It speaks for it self and here are the pictures.

For the wireing of the car I went to Speedwire Systems. These guys make a killer set-up that blows away all others. It is a very clean and easy install. Everything in one little block that goes to one main control box with one cable. I told Gil at Speedwire what I had and he made a system to fit it all.

No onto some the car. I know everyone has been saying I need more on the chassis and I will be trying my best to get them. I worked out a deal with someone that will stop by DMC every week or so and shoot some pictures of all the progress. Here is some stuff that I had from a little bit back and as I get updates I will post them here.

SO here are a few inside shots of the 25.3 cage. Some changes were made and bars added but this will help you get a idea.

Once the motor was fitted into the car it gave us a better idea of what it was going to take to make it all work. Here are some pictures of that. We had to open up and make a dog box area for the back of the intake and we will mostlikely mount the throttle body inside the car to keep it clean and neat under the hood. Here are some of those pictures with the Joe Van O nose mocked up.

The next stuff I post will be the building of the headers and hot side of the turbo system but that will be in a few days. I have to get the pictures uploaded and resized first. Thanks and check back soon. EK


I'll tell you!!!!! These dam fab guys. First the intake on backwards and now the headers are facing forwards. What does a guy have to do the get stuff right.......

Dennis at DMC is just getting the headers and the hot side of the turbo system buttoned up. He has been busy as can be and doing a great as always with the build. I can't wait to get this thing up and running on the dyno.


I wanted to get a picture up of the header welded. Joe takes some really killer pictures. Look at the welds on this. Dennis at DMC really tried to show off a little here.

Here are some shots of thedog box area getting cut out so we can fit the intake where it should be. We are going to clean the area up and make it look nice but we just needed to start some place. Also since the area is tight we will most likely be mounting the throttle body under the dash inside the car. It will also help clean up the engine bay.

I hope to have a few more pictures next week. I'll post them when I have them.



I understand what was said and that is why I said what I did. I don't have a problem being asked and don't blame Busa for anything. It is just that I get it all the time where people think it is all free.

Anyone who knows me knows I don't think any different of who I am vs who everyone else is. I'm no better then anyone else. Yes, I'm a pro racer. But that doesn't mean a thing in my eyes. Everyone assumes that I just call someone for a part and it is sent for free. I didn't have to say anything but I wanted to let everyone know that it is not the case.  

I built this thing to have fun and go racing.


The one thing that I can not stress is make sure you have fun doing it.

When I started this build I wanted a car that I could drive to the track 3 miles away. Well it is what it is now since I just don't know how to stick to my own plans. It would have been done a long time ago if I did but then what fun would that have been.

To answer some of the questions being asked.

One thing I will say is I have not yet thought about how hard I'm going to try and run this thing. The dyno will tell me if it is worth trying to go really fast or keep it in 275 trim with a 88mm set up on it. I really want to enjoy it and run it more then I have to fix it. I built it over kill for this reason.

Next people are talking about the travel side of racing. Here is some thought.

We drive 1 Semi truck and 2 motorhomes 22,000 miles a year. Now that isn't all the races since the car teams go to 23 and we only do 16 so our numbers are a little soft vs some others. We also are only a 5 person team unlike some car teams that are 12-15 guys. Our stuff gets in the area of 5 miles per gal. So that works out to roughly $52,000 + in diesel just to get to a race.

I know most fuel cars have 2 semi trucks a motorhome and a truck that tows a 26 ft or so trailer with spare parts and bodies in it. I know one top team that spends $500,000 in travel a year for the trucks and crew and gets right to about $800,000 with hotels etc..... Now they all need to get paid.

Racing is not cheap. We all do what we can afford and at the level we can. But one key thing is not to build or buy things 2 or 3 times. That is when the cost really gets high. I opted to go over kill on everything since I know the level I want to end up at with this thing and tried to play it smart. So at this point I'm open minded and will see what it takes to go the et that makes me and yes my wife happy. LOL. If I was single with out a kid I would have this thing on full tilt every run.

Well I got some little things to do and I hope to have some pictures and updates in the next few days for you guys.



Well anyway. I planed to go to DMC and pick up my motor and turbo system this weekend and get it on the dyno in the following weeks but DMC is behind on some other builds and mine is not ready yet. So I will post stuff as I get it.



Thanks Guys

It could have stayed as is but it never hurts to clean things up. I'm a easy guy.

As for the car. All I can say is I don't care how well Bull Horns work I can't bring myself to do it the basic way. I have given it a lot of thought and think I know a way to do something that will be clean and not look bad. If we can't do it then the car will have the basic holes on the back side of the front tire.


Thanks guys. It was a good but lucky weekend. Sometimes things just work out in the end.

I wish I had a update on the car but I have been so busy I can't say I do. I will get on that and try to post something soon.



I don't really have much here on my end with chassis stuff from DMC but I have got a bunch of parts. All I got pictures of at this point is the trans.

I went with a ATI Superglide 4. This thing has all the options ATI has to offer.

First I hope to never have trans issues so that is whay I went with the Superglide 4. This thing is rated to 3000+ HP and has all the larger shafts etc... in it.

Also one great option is the external pump set up. As most of you may know a turbo car is really hard on the fluid since they always take a few seconds to spool up and that heats up the fluid in the converter. Well what happen is the converter stays hot when the car is not running and that in turn boils the fluid in the converter until it cools. Well now all I have to do is run the pump for 5 mins after the run and that will allow the cooler in the ice box to really help cool the trans and fluid down. That should be a huge help in the life of the whole trans.

Next is the converter. I went with the Outlaw Series 10 1/2. They are a really nice part and have 6 mounting tabs to keep it on the flex plate. I got 2 of them that I will have to tweak on a little bit. I will have one that will be set up tight and one set up looser. This will allow for a little bit of adjustment for race track set-ups. That is where the testing will come in once this thing hits the track.

Once I get a chance after this weekends race I will post some pictures of the Strange Pro Series 2 Brakes and all the MSD stuff.

Also now that DMC has got Jason Reiss in house doing some stuff for them I asked Jason to please update the thread with progress pictures on the car over the next few weeks. So you will see some stuff I would think in the coming weeks.

Thanks guys




Thanks for posting some pics up.

As for the header flange. They were a little small and were opened up to not get in the way of the port.

I also got a set of the wheels in 10 1/2 wide for my 275 tires. I got the 12 inch ones a while back for the 315's and just thought it would make sense to have the same off set done and just change the back space to work for the smaller tires. This will allow the outer part of the tire to be in the same spot and keep the same look with either tire.

I'm sure Jason will post some more in the coming weeks.


Thanks for the good words. This season has been tough but is going really well. Our bike is not where it needs to be yet and I hope we get it going more consistent soon.

Well here are some pictures of the brakes I went with. Strange Pro Series 2. I wanted to use the new Pro Series for a few reasons but the most important one is they have a floating rotor. That makes it a lot nicer when you are breaking to keep pedal fade to a minimum. It also assures the car will roll a lot easier with out the chance of the rotor dragging on the pads if they get a a little out of true.

front spindle mount set up

Floating area

One the rear it also has the Pro Series 2 Rotors with Duel 4 piston calpers. This stuff is light but made really well.

Well that it all I have with me since I'm out on the road. When I get back home Friday I will put some MSD Stuff up over the weekend.



Thanks man. I hope you are enjoying the bike. It is the cheapest and easiest way to fast.

I hope to have some more in the coming weeks. Just between racing and the other shops gearing up for the 5 Outlaw races in the coming weeks everyone has been really busy and since I'm not going to any of them no reason to have the shops rush my stuff through.



Thanks Guys. All the drama really made it that much better to win. My bike is one bad bird right now!



I wish I did have chassis updates. In the last few weeks DMC has pushing to get a few cars out for the last few outlaw races of this season so mine I'm sure has not been touched. I understand the deal since I'm a racer and since I'm not racing mine I'm cool with that. However on the engine side once I get a break I plan on doing the wire harness and a detail stuff. I will post pictures of the turbo system on it when I get a chance.



The fuel pump is a Waterman Pump. I would buy the pump from Weldon Pump. You can get a better deal on it since more people are dealer for them. It is a 6.8 GPM pump.

As for the bracket call Billy Briggs. He made it for the motor it worked out really nice and is well made. 248-669-5810

I hope to get some more info up here in the next few days. I just have had to really focus on my last few racesand have not had time to do much. The season is about to end and winter is here and that will free up a lot time on my end.



I hope to have some updates in the next few days. I took a trip to DMC last week to drop off the engine and all the parts. Dennis plans on working on it this week and I will post what he sends me. I do have a few new one's on my camera but I'm not at home to upload them. I'll see what I can do about getting them up ASAP.


Hey guy's. Here are a few pictures that were done a few weeks back and I just never got a chance to post them. Dennis should be sending me some soon with the motor in and going back together but here is what I have.

So the first time around we elected to only trim from the strut-towers forward. Once the motor was out Dennis just thought for the ease of working on the car and cleaning up the front clip area he did some cleaning up behind the towers also. It also doesn't hurt to loose a few more pounds in the process.

Here are some inside shots of cage etc.....

The cell you here mounted is the water tank. We will be using it cool the intercooler and engine. It will end up getting a different top but that is the easy part. As we all know plans change as you go all the time. The one thing I can say is Dennis has a lot of thought that goes into each build. It is not about building a car it is about giving you something that works as well as something that you can work on.

Also Rick Head from Exile Turbo made me this killer intercooler. We gave him some measurements to work with-in and he knocked it out of the ball park. I couldn't be any more happier with his work.


That's what I have at this time but like I said I hope to have a few more in the next few days. Thanks guys


Hey guys. I have been slacking on some of the updates. Time right now is worth more then the weight of gold to me. I have been sourcing some of the little items to really finish off what needs to get but I just wanted to post a few more pictures of the hot side of the Turbo System. With the motor set back into place Dennis will be doing the turbo mounts and all the charge side tubes along with the exhaust as soon as the tubes come in. The once that is complete he can move onto the new fiberglass rear hatch and fit the wing. Here are the engine shots.

I hope to have a few more things to post in the coming weeks. As I get pictures I will post them. Thanks


Dennis is ending up getting some cut out of a car at a Junkyard. We then will strip the paint and put them in.

With all these 4th Gen Camaros on the road I wouldn't have thought no one make a re pop of the OEM floor pan. I should make a investment and do them myself and sell them on the Internet.


Hey Guys

I hope to have a few updates in the coming weeks. DMC has been hard at work on the car but with 2 big races in the next few weeks he hasen't had time to shoot me some pictures. I should have some next week though.

Here is a great story written by Andrew Wolf from Dragzine.com.




Well being I have a little time off here are some more updates from DMC.

Yes this thing has taken way longer then thought but I'm happy to say we are getting close. Just finishing some engine compartment stuff then it will be painted and start going back together to be wired. Here are some new pictures.

First was to finish up the dog box area for the intake. As you can see it came out nice and clean and allows for good room inside the box area.

Next was the strut tower braces. Being that most of the metal around was removed we needed to tie the towers back into the main chassis. This would also allow us to make tabs off the uprights to tie the engine plate directly to the chassis.

Prep work is key being that most of the stuff is Tig welded in

Time to test fit the tube

Get a tight clean fit so it welds up nice

Now weld it in place

Now I really can't stand the look of Bull Horns so Dennis and the DMC guys are taking every step they can to try and hide most of the pipe. What we plan on doing is sinking the exhaust into the rocker area allowing the second half of the radius stick out from the fender. This should help clean it up quite a bit so you will only see half the bend. Here it what it took to do it.

Stock Rocker

Cut away the rocker & some metal prep

It was cut to fit a 5" tube for future just in case this thing get's twins at some point

Getting it filled back in

Some engine bay shots

I head out next week for a trip over seas but I hope to be able to post some more pictures by Monday. Thanks


So I some guy asked today if I would sell the car. That is it. Far from what has been written on other boards. That was a good read though.

My reply was to make a offer and don't low ball it. LOL

I have a few more pictures to post but I'm on the road and only have my phone so I can't do it until I get back next week.

Thanks guys.


Well here are a few more updated pictures. I've just been busy and haven't had a chance to post them until now.

Dennis has been working on fitting in the windshield. I opted to not use a glass window for the safety side of things so I went with a Speedglass drop in style. These things are made really nice and fit the car great. One more really nice thing is the fact that the drop in is 23 lbs lighter then a OEM glass window. Here are some pictures.

Dennis will also be putting some screws around the outside of the window to keep in place. This style window doesn't require them but for safety we are going to do it.

Next DMC fitted the VFN rear hatch. I got a hinged style fiberglass hatch for a few reasons. The main thing is now we don't have to fill the back panel where the OE wing mounts and this will help keep down weight. I also wanted to maintain the OE look and didn't want to need 2 people to remove the thing so making sure it bolted on was a major plus. It fit nice but needed a little work around the edges.

Next was getting the Carbon wing all mounted up. This wing was made by Joe Van Overbeek and anyone that knows about his stuff know the quality of it. It is built strong and just fits like it should.

Dennis is going to make up a set of side spill plates that fit the body a little closer and follow the lines so we didn't add them yet.

Hopefully I will have a few more things in the coming days. I got to get Dennis to send the pictures over and I will post them.

Thanks EK


They are the stock doors. They have not been lightened any as of yet but I plan on doing a little.

They didn't bend or move anything when cutting into stuff however I would plate the inside area anyway by the hinge. Depending on where you down bar is off of your halo hoop you may be able to tie a plate right into that for the best results. That also will help tie the bar into the chassis.

I do plan on carbon doors in the future but until I get the car out and see some results they are on hold. I'm going to look into getting a set of inner and outer molds made so the door will have a roll up type of window. I really don't want a fixed in window. I can't stand that look. If I have a set done they will be done the right way.

Thanks and good luck with your stuff.


Well I got in the oil tank. I had it made to hold 5-6 quarts in the tank and between the motor lines etc... it should hold total of 7-8 quarts in the entire system. That should be more then enough for a drag car. I also got it with a pre filter on it to help avoid any extra junk getting in the oil. Here is what it looks like.

I'm waiting on some more photos from DMC on the build side so once I get them I will post them up.


I also got my trailer picked this week. This thing is bad ***. I looked at a bunch of trailer builders and to be honest Intech just kept sticking out. So I went and checked out a few different options and came to fact that spending a few bucks more will be more then worth it in the long run.

Well to explain what I mean is the quality of a Intech can not be found in any of the others that I looked. That is what I feel set them a part from everyone else. The seams and joints are spot on and NO SHARP EDGES on anything. The edges all have been filed or sanded so it doesn't feel like you are walking next to a razor blade any place around this thing.

I chose to do a 28" complete aluminum trailer to save on weight. I also opted to spec it out to the way I wanted it built. I went through TCS Trailers or bestpricetrailers.com. They took great care of me and made it easy to build. Intech was good to work with and made it easy to understand the prints. Overall it was a great experience.

Well here are some pictures of it.

Here is inside the box I had made on the tongue. It has the spare mounted to the wall and a air line fitting and electric outlet inside for mounting a compressor in the box. I also will be putting a gas tank to run the generator that will mount to the front wall. This thing allowed me to save a bunch of space inside by using what in most cases is wasted area on a trailer.


I also had a bunch of extra LED's put down the side.

Full aluminum floor on the bottom and door along with outlets every place on this thing. It always seams like trailers never can have enough. It also has a air line in the front and rear inside the trailer and one outside in front of the right side wheels.

The right side is set up to have a roll cart under the bench when loaded and when it is remover it turns into a desk area so you can put you computer and have a place to look at data.

Left side has the Generator box, Locker and upper and lower storage with 2 draws.


One more little trick thing is I have lots of 12v LED's inside the trailer a long with 120v lighting. This is the 12v LED on. Inside each 120v light box is a 12v LED strip and also under each work area is a 12v LED light making sure light will never be a issue.

Well if you are in the market for a trailer and willing to spend a few buck more for something that set's it self a part from the rest I would suggest a Intech. It tows like a dram even with my 1500 pick up and just tracks so nice.


Well I have a few other pictures to post.

Got some of the floor patched up. Since no place makes floor pans for Gen 4 Camaro's we had to make a filler patch. No big deal to make it just takes a little bit of extra to fab out the parts.

Well this is the mid plate I had to install

It went in with really no problems and was cut and dry. Very clean looking and the bends really help the fit.

The engine then was pulled back out to do some more welding and fitting of other parts. While it's out all the little misc holes can be filled and patches can be done along with the metal prep side of things.

Around back the parachute mount was made. Dennis made it nice and clean looking along with adding a little style to it.

Next he played around with tire placement. It is kind of tricky to fit the 275 & 315 tire inside and keeping a balanced look. The other issue with the Camaro is to run a wider tire and make the ride height of the car the way we want it the tires have to be set in a little. If you don't set the tire inside the upper lip area the car will be raked a little much. This is done with a narrow rear and big offset on the wheels. The nice thing is the rear wheels have a deep dish and I think look great on the car. Also this thing should sit nice and low.

Well I hope to be able to post a few more in the coming weeks. As I get them I will post them. Thanks EK


I hope to have some pictures to put up soon. I've just had a really busy few months and haven't had time to do many update posts etc... But that doesn't mean the car hasen't been getting worked on.

I go to DMC the 3rd week in December to go get the car. When I get it I will bring it home and wire it then hopefully some time early next year test. I have pictures on my phone that Dennis texts me but none of the that were taken with a camera so I don't want to post cell phone pictures. Once he sends me the good shots I can post them. I have a busy few weeks in front of me with over seas trips and stuff so I will post stuff once I can.

Thanks EK


Hey Guy's. I got a few updates. The car has been moving a long nicely at DMC and is the final stretch. I plan on driving out to the shop in 2 weeks to go and pick the car up. Once I get the car I will have to finish some minor detail stuff then tear it down for the final time and do some paint & powder coating. I then can work on getting all back together. DMC was going to do most of that but I would like to so I know the ins-and-outs of it. I then will wire it up and hopefully have it all done before I have to start my race season. If all goes well I would like test the car in Feb. We all know how that stuff goes so all I'm worried about is getting it and working at the best pace to get get it done.

I do have some pictures that are a little older and will update with other one's once I get them. Dennis has a bunch of pictures but hasen't had the time to send them over and as I get them I will post them. I got a buch of cell phone pictures but they aren't very good quality and I will wait until I get the nice one's.

Well anyway Dennis and the guys mounted the oil tank and rather then hanging it off the front like everyone does he wanted to hide it in the back by the fire wall and keep the front clean. Sounds simple but when Dennis ment he was going to hide it he ment it. Out came the plasma cutter and they cut away some of the fire wall to french it into it. This will allow the tank to be mounted low and maintain lot's of tire clearance and ground clearance and not to mention look clean. It will also help with the exhaust clearance since it will run behind the front tire also. During the process he had to cut up the tank a little to but I'm sure it will look just fine when done. Well anyway here are some of the pictures of the process.

Next DMC worked on getting the inside buttoned up. He need to do the steering column & mount the dash.

Once that the dash was in they moved to the engine bay area. He made the gas tank and mounted it in the left front fender area.

Well that is all I have at this time and hope to have some of the intercooler / cold side plumbing and the exhaust stuff to post next week a long with the nose and a bunch of other misc stuff. Once I get them I will post them up.

Thanks EK


The shocks are made by JRI and are the ST/08


They are used in Pro Stock and really work killer. They were mounted of a tab style bracket that was made and it worked out really good. If I'm correct the are 19" overall and should really make the adjustment side of it easy.

We talked about making a whole new upper plate but kept it stock so people can see that the control arms in a stock location. I didn't want to have stuff questioned. Here is a close up of the tab.


Yes I have a few updates but to honest the shop / travel and home stuff has kept me quite busy and I haven't had a chance to post anything. I will try to sit down for a little bit this weekend and post stuff up.

I had planed on getting the car between the holidays and bring it home but I left it at DMC with hopes that he can finish it up for me by March. I do plan on getting it in late March so it can be ready to hit the track in May since I'm off that whole month. DMC has a paint booth inside the shop so I was just going to have them paint it and do most of the stuff and I would only have little things to do when I get it. I want to make some NMCA stuff when they come out to the mid west. I have 4 races with in 4 hours of my house and not on race weekends so I want to plan on going to a minimum of 2 or 3 of them.

Like I said I will get some update pics up once I get a chance. Thanks for the bump



Well guys sorry it took so long to post a update. I have a bunch of pictures and waiting on a bunch more from Dennis @ DMC Racing. So I sorted through what I got here and picked the best one's. I haven't got all the good pictures from him some shots are from his camera phone. I guess some are better then none. Well anyway time to move on.

Well a little bit back I posted a few pictures of the wing getting started. So here is what it looks like from start finish along with the parachute mounts.

So we were not a fan of how the carbon spill plates on the side of the wing looked so Dennis spent a little bit of time to fab up some new one's out of aluminum. I think they look real clean and fit the body lines way better.

In the last picture you can he also got the chute mount set up built and on the car. This is what the Chute mount & holders look like up close

Here is one with the chutes all mounted up and complete. I went with the spring launcher style just to not have to worry about the air set up. I think it is more of a fail safe set up and keeps it simple

Also I showed one with the dash in but here is a picture of the top. I think it couldn't have fit really any better then it did. I'm really happy with the look.

The floors got a buttoned up and welded. It takes no time to cut the floors out but it takes a lot of time to weld them back in. Here is a shot of it getting done. We tried to keep it as clean as we could and use the OEM metal as much as we could.

Non OEM part of it

The intercooler was mounted in the back and the charge tubes as low to the floor as DMC can get them. I wanted it behind me just in case anything was to ever happen to it. Exile Turbos built it and made the thing really strong so I think it will never be a issue but you could never be to cautious.


Next thing we changed was the ice box. Dennis gave it some thought and with the way we had the cooler in the trunk area I would have had to do to many things to service the car between runs. So Dennis thought putting it right up front between the charge tubes would help make it a much faster service plus help balance out the car. This is what DMC came up with and I think it will make my life a ton easier.

Alright guys. I have to run and will try and get some more up in the coming days. Thanks for looking and hopefully I can get more of them up soon.


Sorry for the major delay. DMC has been in the process of getting things finished up. My plan and hopes are to be testing in the end of July or early August. If all goes well and everything looks good their may even be a small chance that it will make the NMCA race in Norwalk August 23-25. As of right now I have that in my plans. I will only make it if we have a handle on the whole deal. I have no reason to rush it since I have waited this long. If I don't my plan is to be at the Indy NMCA October 10th. Being the race is 2 miles from my house I have no reason not to be at it. As long as it is together it will be at the race.

Lot's have been going on. My time has been really focused on my Pro Stock Bike and I have not had a chance to do anything. DMC has sent me some pictures here and their but phone pictures really don't come out to good and are not worth posting. I do have some older one's that I never got around to getting up so here they are.

The last ones were of the ice tank and not complete. Well here is what it will look like with the cap.

Also the one rear shot of the car with the parachutes that I posted was a phone shot so here is one taken with that is a little better.

The DMC crew also worked on getting the engine bay area buttoned up. You saw the pasenger side got the oil tank recessed into it and he woked on getting the drivers side cleaned up a little so it would look as nice. The only thing that was still needed to be done at the time of the picture was the cut away for the drivers side exhaust. Here is what it looked like with the top done.

Passenger Side with the exhaust cut out done.

So the next step was to start on the exhaust. I wanted to do a duel exhaust with a small hidden bull horn so to have the proper ground & tire clearance the fire wall needed to have the cut out for the pipe. They made a stainless Y out of the turbo. Sorry for the picture quality

And then started on the rest of the system. As you can see we went with aluminum tube to save weight. I only have one picture of it getting done. Dennis has a ton more pictures that I haven't gotten yet so when he sends them I will update it.

The engine bay was just about finished but still needed one more thing done to help clean it up. With the current set up we were going to need to run a bunch of hoses for cooling etc... from the front of the engine so DMC made this killer cross over set up to allow us to only use 1 or 2 hoses instead of needing 4.

The next step was to get the front end mounted up. We are making it so the fenders and nose can be removed to make it easier to work on. Here is the nose getting mocked up

Moving onto the inside. That is in the process of getting buttoned up and finished. They got the last few things in and done.

Break pedal & Racepak Dash is in

Shifter is mounted and trans tunnel is finished

Well that about all I can do for tonight. I will try to update the post with mounting of the electronics etc... and exhaust stuff In the next couple days. Thanks Ed


Yes it sure is. DMC did a killer job on it. If someone is interested give them a call. I think they have a few. As you can see it works with all the fron drive stuff and helps make the front of the engine much cleaner looking with hoses coming out one side.


To be honest that is the one thing that took me the longest to make up my mind on. I looked at a lot of options but ended up with a BigStuff Setup.

The main reason is they are proven and work well. With ECU's you have a ton of options and could spend all day but in the end the BigStuff box works and is half the price of some of the other units and they all do the same thing to some extent. One key thing is the Racepak VNET cable hook-up. I spent some time talking to John on what is really needed and I ended up getting my box with the following things.

Base box with DAE & DAI for doing internal data-logging.
Can VNET for use with a Racepak
Distributor based SR2 for traction control
Internal Boost Controller
4 Bar map sensor
02 Set up
Coolant Temp
Air Temp

All in all the box should do everything needed to get it done. I chose to go with the boost control set-up built into the box since I hear great things about it. I know a ton of guys that use it and love it. So I plan on giving it a try. I also have the Racepak stuff on the car for data-logging. The other nice thing is the that between the MSD Power Grid, Racepak & Big Stuff I can put them onto the VNET hook up for logging and watch many things. It should be a nice set up.


It depends on how you look at it. You loose power and you loose weight so the power loss now numbers change. At this point we are not far off where we were going by power to weight numbers. It will take about 8-10 HP more to be a number #1 bike and that is what we are shooting for. It has only been the last few races that we have ran respectable to the field et's. We have only worked on the tune up and that has made the best result. We took the same bikes and engines that we qualified 15-16 worked on the tune up and 8-10...

Just like anything it takes time to find what they like and we have started to turn that corner now. HP wouldn't have helped us before we started to find what they wanted to be tuned on. We are not to far off now and just have to keep after it. Finding HP is a full time job so it keeps everyone on their toes here at the shop. Hopefully Indy goes better since we have this month off. We will see.


Progress has been getting done but I have not posted much since I was not getting the pictures of it. I would rather have the progress over the pictures but I still want to keep this thread filled with updates as often as I can but without pictures I feel it is useless.

The great news is I finally got a ton of pictures today from the work that has been done over the last few months to the car. I don't have time to post them all but I will get some up today. It really is not far off. The last thing that I know of that needs to be done is the paint work and get it together and dyno it. Only time will tell if it will make the race. Hopefully with all the time that was put into getting it to the point the reassemble should be rather direct and straightforward with no surprises. But we all know how that goes so I will not say it until I know I have it in my hands and it is done. I guess it is complete when it is complete.

Anyway last I showed pictures of the charge pipes being done inside but didn't have any front shots of the firewall area inside the car or engine compartment. Here is a few that shows what was done.

Here is the starting point on the engine or maybe I should say ending point. I'm working my way backwards on this part.

As we move inside the car

Here is what it looks like all connected together inside the car

Also getting all the brake stuff done while under the dash area

Next was to get the dash plate done and istalled

Also mounted all the electronic boxes under the dash. We are using the Speedwire System to help keep it clean and know where everything goes. We also mounted the BigStuff ECU and all the MSD Power Grid boxes under here. It will be nice to keep the floor area clean.

Final fitting and trimming of the dash to make sure it clears all the tubes and electronic parts installed under it

Moving outside to under the hood and here is how it looks coming out from the firewall to over the shock tower

Here is where it all starts. I have the Exile 106mm on it now for the fitment to start since it is legal for the NMCA stuff and then it will be easy to swap out at anytime with a 88mm or whatever size ends up on it depending on class rules that I race it in. We also went with the large Procharger BOV. They work great and are proven.

Well thanks for looking and I will get all the exhaust stuff up and some other things in the next few days. I have it so it is just a matter of finding time. Thanks EK


As promised here are some more photos of past progress. I last posted some pictures of the cold charge side of the turbo system and now I will post the hot side.

We chose aluminum to keep weight down. With all the tube that is being used stainless would have added up quite fast and that is the last thing we wanted. I said in some posts back about how I couldn't stand the way some of the bull horns look on cars and how most cars have the exhaust exit right out in front of the front tire and hanging in the breeze but I couldn't deal with that. Dennis said he thinks that he can come up with something that should make it much nicer and cleaner but yet still work. So I said go for it and he ended up frenching them into the fire wall so it would clear the front tire and hide as much as the pipe as he could. I think he did a great job and think that they turned out great. Here is the process.

From the homemade Y out of the Turbo the exhaust pipes start

The start of the passenger side of the car

Behind the spindle

Into the turn

Now out with the tips

Full view

Mounted up with the tabs and welded

Now onto the drivers side and fast forwarded through the whole process and we have a completed exhaust

And when you take a step back and look at this here is what you see

As you can see this is a perfect example why things take a lot longer then expected. This was not a just make some tailpipes and mount them. The amount of metal work that went into just doing this was crazy but it is clean as can be. It is stuff like this that I feel helps set it apart from the others. The guys at DMC are craftsmen and enjoy doing the stuff that makes it mean that much more to them. Once again thanks for looking and hopefully I can post a few more soon.


Well since I have been really slow on posting updates now would be a great time for one. The posting has been slow for a few reasons. Between the last few NHRA races Holidays and my trip over to the Middle East my time has been really limited. Also I have been needing to upload a bunch of pictures DMC had taken over the last few months. Now that my NHRA race season has ended and my travel has slowed down I hopefully will have some personal time from now until late Jan. During that time I plan on getting my car 100% completed.

As you will be able to see from the updates we are not really that far off and if all goes well I should have the thing sitting in my garage in the next few weeks. Well here is what I have for tonight.When I made the last posts DMC had just finished the inside of the car & completed the engine bay area along with the exhaust system. The final thing needing to be done was the front clip and that will be this update.

We wanted to make the front clip removable making it way easier to work on. I will have the option of pulling the whole clip or just the hood when done. This will make it nice at the track or having to do anything in a hurry that you will have the option. First step was to make the front loop. Dennis made it so the loop will hold the turbo and a few other items on it with ease.

Next step was to make a bracket to hold the front clip onto the loop.

One of the things Dennis & the DMC crew pride themselves on is quality work and craftsmanship. I feel this next picture shows just that. Nothing looks better then a nice weld.

After the brackets were on next was to start on what you would call the tree setup that holds the front end on. This is when you really have to get a little creative.

Time to slide the nose on and start adding bars

An inside shot showing how the tree will mount to the nose. All the steel plates will end up getting fiberglass on them holding the part onto the structure making a tight bond

When it was all said and done they ended up with something like this that will hold the nose on to the car

Now the front fenders followed. A little trimming was needed but was kind of straight forward

The exhaust getting cut into the firewall allowed for it to be laid back and tucked in quite nice. The pipe will not hang out no where near as far as it would have if we just ran the pipe out the side

The mounts inside holding the rear of the fenders to the main body. They are crafted to be lightweight but yet very strong and sterdy

When you step back it should start looking like a car

Then hopefully the hood lines all up and you get this.

Just wait until you see this thing on the ground looking low and mean

Well since all this stuff happen in the paint booth at DMC Racing why not take it all apart and get it ready to put some color on it

They have a pile of parts that need to head out to powdercoated

A few inside shots

Thats right!! DMC didn't take the easy way out and put all new sheet metal in for the floor they used the stock stuff

Thanks for taking the time to look. With PRI this weekend in Indy I will not have a whole lot of time to post anything more but hopefully next week I can get some pictures with color on the main body posted you will start to see a car getting close to completed. EK


To be honest we are not sure. My goal was to have it come in at 2900 ready to go down the track. I would hope and like to think it should make it no issue. I'm thinking we will end up having to add 500lbs to get legal at most races. My thought process was to build it once as light as we can so we never have to go and find a way to remove some more. I still can change the doors but I thought having power windows would be cool.



Well I have some more picture updates to post. In the last set I didn't post any of the front clip off the car so I thought I could start with some so you can see the mounting set-up.

Here it is. We also will have the headlights mounted to the nose of the 2 upright tubes behind the lights but they were not on at the time of the pictures but it will allow you to get the idea.

Next thing was getting some color onto the main body. I wanted to keep the whole engine bay area the same color as the main body so it looks clean. We could have made tubes black and the firewall and some other body parts blue but I thought it would look much cleaner this way. Here is how it turned out.

Next was to start dressing the engine and getting it ready to put into it's home.

For most of the bolted on parts in the engine bay and front suspension I went with a black gloss powdercoat but it will have some items that will be a darker silver to help break it up a little and add some color. Here are a few shots of the engine sitting in between the frame rails.

Well guys this is all I have at this point in time. I hope to have a few more for you throughout this coming week but with the holidays it may be hard to get a bunch more done and up. I was planning on picking the car next week but as you can see we are a little behind but the light is bright at the end of the tunnel. The guys at DMC will be pushing hard to get buttoned up 100% in the coming weeks and as I get pictures you will get updates. Our goal is to have the engine bay, interior & wiring 100% together by the first week of Jan and the car on the ground rolling by Jan 18th. The only thing from that point will be the final paint on the outside to blend the front clip and back half of the shell so it all matches and looks like new. Stay tuned and as it progresses hopefully I can post it up.

Happy holidays


Getting paint onto it sure is exciting. The car was built and everything mocked and fitted like the brake lines, fire system and wire harness so it should lay out rather quick and easy. Just some little things needed final fit but no fab work should be needed. Hopefully I will have some more pictures after the holidays.



Hey guys. I hope it's warm wherever you are but in Indy the high temperature in the last 3 days has been -6 and as cold as -18 degrees so I thought it would be great to make a quick post. We do have a warming trend starting to happen today but I still will not call 9 degrees a heat wave but I will take it.

DMC has been hard at work getting the final things done to car and putting stuff back together as they go. They got hit with a bad snow storm last week as well so it slowed some things down a bit but it looks more like a car everyday. They have been working on the inside trying to get all the stuff and installed. Before that could be done it needed some paint work done and that is what I thought would be great to get posted today.

The inside of the car is going to be sprayed in a satin black. We also chose a satin black powdercoat for all the charge tubes, mounts etc.... inside to help keep it looking clean and allow a lot of stuff to blend in. We wanted it to look stealth. The nice thing should be when you look inside the car the parts are not just going to stick out but hopefully blend right in together.

Here is Pete blowing it all off after a little sanding and scuffing of the tubes

Here is how the inside paint looked when Pete was finished with it.

Just a up close of the finish & color

The carpet laid out to help the wrinkles flatten out a little

Hopefully I can get some stuff from Dennis in the next few days and I will post them as soon as I do. I know it doesn't show much but it shows progress and things are getting close.


Well I left off the other day with the carpet getting layed out so the wrinkles could smooth out in it. While that was happening the next step was to get the interior parts and start trimming them to fit in the areas that were no longer stock. The big area was in the rear around the wheel tubs. The key was to take some time and make sure nothing was over cut since you can't go and just add it back on. After a little bit of time this is what they looked like fit into place.

Passenger Side

Drivers Side

Next was to get the carpet laid onto the tubs

Following that was to get the carpet into the back half of the car. Everything was covered in the back that could be seen to make sure the car has that clean look to it. It takes a good bit of time to make sure you can get into the cracks but the time was well worth it. Here is how it came out.

Now moving onto the front half of the car. The hard part here is getting it to forum onto the trans tunnel and not bunch up and lay smooth. This was the result

As the carpet was just getting finished up some powdercoated stuff showed up

It was a great time to throw the ice tank into it's spot to see how it would look

Since a few extra powdercoated parts came in for the front end it was time to button up all the front suspension from Midwest Chassis. Here is a picture of how it looks all bolted in

Once I get the pictures of the charge tubes etc... all installed I will post up the completed interior pictures. I will try my best to keep you guys updated.
Thanks Ed


I have a few things but have not had a whole lot of time. Quite a few things are finished up and honestly I haven't had a chance to post some of it. As mentioned I was going to get the car (Feb 15th) 2 weeks ago and all my travel got screwed by weather. Someone actually drove my truck out and was on the way to DMC and my flights got cancelled. The bad weather was for that whole week since that storm traveled east and they couldn't get me onto a flight until the following Thursday. I couldn't leave town this past weekend so I was kind of stuck on what I could do. As of now my truck is in NJ and I have to set plans to head out and pick it up and bring the car back. My only issue now is I head out next weekend to go testing and then off to the Gainesville NHRA race the following weekend. So I'm going to be out for the next 2 weeks as of now.

The car is really close at this time. It needs a few small things buttoned up, some paint work and fired up and a base tune done. Now hopefully during the time I can't get it Dennis and the guys at DMC can get the paint on it and maybe even have a chance to get it on the dyno. We will see. As of right now it is at DMC until I can get some time and get back up to get it. It looks to be in the later part of March.

Well anyway here are some of the update pictures.

Eric at MidWest Chassis built all the suspension stuff and finished up the rear housing for the car. As always Eric & the guy at MWC make some really nice proven products. Here is a few pictures of it in the works.

MWC Tig welds the housing resulting in a much nicer finish than a mig'ed housing

Talked about packing your product nicely

With the housing bolted into the car we were able to get in onto the ground to see how the car will sit. Here is it on the ground for the first time.

Well that is what I have for right now and hopefully I can get some more pictures on progress from DMC. Once I have them I will be sure to post them. Hopefully I can have this thing running and at a track early spring. If all works out well on my end I do plan on hitting the May NMCA Chicago event. I have my fingers crossed.



Sorry man. I have been quite busy the last 2 weeks with racing etc... I hope to have a few updates in the next week to post. I just need all the pictures of it going back together 100% and final things getting finished up.

The top of the wing was made by Joe Van O. We used just the top and not the side spill plates supplied. DMC racing did all the install & made the side spill plates to match the car and the look we were going for. The plates that came with the wing were flat carbon and I wanted the sides to follow the bodylines and curve of the car so they were made from aluminum. Dennis did a killer on it and I'm really happy with the way it came out. Here are a few pictures.


So I got a few updates.

I know some were asking about the rear suspension & underside of the car so that is what I'm going to post today. The first thing was to get the whole underside clear of everything and to start with a clean slate.

So the rear lower control arm mounts are not really reinforced very well on the F Body cars. DMC Racing wanted something that was built into the frame support so Dennis did a little fab work. First he took some measurements and then removed the stock one

Next thing was to fab up a plate and put some solid mounting point under it

In the end the mounting point was tied into some structure and our fabed up mounting plate had a few extra holes.

The Midwest Chassis Torque Arm uses a swinging style front mount rather than a slide mount in the tube. One of the things that this does is minimize the chance of any type of binding. DMC made a mount on the crossmember to bolt the whole set up to. Here is what it looked like when finished

The final thing to get finished up was on the rear end. Dennis wanted to keep things tracking straight by using a wishbone in the back. He cut and welded some tubes up and it ended up looking like this

Here is a shot of the bottom side from the front to the back

Next up the painting of the underside


After everything was mounted it was time to get the car over to Hillview Auto Body. These guys have a really nice set that will allow for the paint to come out just as nice on the bottom as it will on the top. Heated paint booths and the ability to mix paint in house makes for quality work and fast turn around times.

The guys didn't waste any time on getting the car into the booth to tape things up

Once it was in the booth and tapped all up the first thing was to get the bottom side all sanded and do a little body work. They filled some little holes and edges with seam sealer and even used a little bondo in some places.

First thing was to get under the car and start to spray some self etching primer onto the body to make sure we have a good bond and seal. As you can see it is not that easy. I bet he wishes the spray booth had a lift

Next to to get a epoxy primer onto the everything so the paint has something nice and clean to stick to

Next up was to go into the database and find the correct color needed

Now time to mix the paint

With the paint mixed up it was time to get it into the gun and onto the car

Once the paint was laid down the final thing was to get the clear on top. After the clear was sprayed the heat in the room was turned up a little to make sure it dries and get's hard

When they went back in 30 minutes later this is the way it looked

Well that's all I got for today. I hope to post some more stuff here next week. We are not far off as of today and I hopefully can update everyone next chance I get. Thanks for reading.


To be honest when I started I thought it would be 12 months. It 2 years longer than expected. It's 3 years and 2 months. The biggest thing is time. The main issue is I'm not with the car. It turned into a DMC shop project that they worked on when time allowed them. If I could have helped out some I think it would have moved along a little faster.

Anyone that tries to build a car from nothing is fooled if they think it can be done in 12 months. It would take 2 guys 1 year of non stop work to build the car. That is saying 80 hours a week would be put into the project every week giving you 4160 hours to finish it. Sounds like a lot to some but when you are crafting, cutting, moving etc..... it adds up. Sure it can be done and has been done but that is why you hear of guys paying $300,000 + to build a car. In most cases no one does it in 1 hit. We all put crazy money into our builds but it is done over time.

The way we kind of did it was stockpile stuff and then work on it. This way it allowed all the parts to mocked up and fit into place to make sure we liked the result. On most builds people are cutting and removing old stuff and adding new and you end up changing things 3 or 4 times over time. It's really hard to build it with out the parts. Parts cost money and labor cost money. So in the end it would be safe to say you can get it done as fast as your pile of money will allow.

If I had not built this car I would own my home. I have said it myself a few times that I wish I had never gone to this extreme but I wouldn't change it at all. Besides a home that is paid for will not run very fast at the track. LOL

Well I head out tomorrow morning at 5am to fly out to DMC and pick the car up. My truck and trailer are at the shop and I will be bringing the car home. Once I have it I plan to finish a few little things and then go race it. I hope it can happen in the next month so I will keep everyone up to date.

I can't wait and look forward to the trip tomorrow.


To be honest when I started I thought it would be 12 months. It 2 years longer than expected. It's 3 years and 2 months. The biggest thing is time. The main issue is I'm not with the car. It turned into a DMC shop project that they worked on when time allowed them. If I could have helped out some I think it would have moved along a little faster.

Anyone that tries to build a car from nothing is fooled if they think it can be done in 12 months. It would take 2 guys 1 year of non stop work to build the car. That is saying 80 hours a week would be put into the project every week giving you 4160 hours to finish it. Sounds like a lot to some but when you are crafting, cutting, moving etc..... it adds up. Sure it can be done and has been done but that is why you hear of guys paying $300,000 + to build a car. In most cases no one does it in 1 hit. We all put crazy money into our builds but it is done over time.

The way we kind of did it was stockpile stuff and then work on it. This way it allowed all the parts to mocked up and fit into place to make sure we liked the result. On most builds people are cutting and removing old stuff and adding new and you end up changing things 3 or 4 times over time. It's really hard to build it with out the parts. Parts cost money and labor cost money. So in the end it would be safe to say you can get it done as fast as your pile of money will allow.

If I had not built this car I would own my home. I have said it myself a few times that I wish I had never gone to this extreme but I wouldn't change it at all. Besides a home that is paid for will not run very fast at the track. LOL

Well I head out tomorrow morning at 5am to fly out to DMC and pick the car up. My truck and trailer are at the shop and I will be bringing the car home. Once I have it I plan to finish a few little things and then go race it. I hope it can happen in the next month so I will keep everyone up to date.

I can't wait and look forward to the trip tomorrow.


Hey Guys

Yes, I have been slacking on updates but not on the car. I will make time this week to post some stuff up. I have like 200 pictures and already feel I'm way to far behind and have to post them. I'm just kind of short on time between work and racing stuff so the time I have fee has been spent with my little one. She has been helping me work on the car at night and it has been a lot of fun.

I have the final few things to do to the car. I hope to put a map in and fire it up over the next few days. I feel I'm at 98% with it. As long as it fires and runs I see no reason why it will not be at the NMCA Indy race in Sept. It may not be fast but I have to hit the track sometime and that will be my only weekend off for the next 6 weeks so I'm trying to make that happen. Stay tuned and I will get something up this week.


Wow!! Where do I restart the post. Sorry for all the long delays but man I have been busy. Well anyhow enough with the BS I have some pictures to post. A lot has happened since the last time I posted. I got the car home a few months back and have been hard at it. Here is where it sits getting ready to work on it.

After paint work on the main shell was done next was to get going on the inside. I last showed the inside with the carpet getting put in. Here is what it looked like we started to put all the charge pipes in and get it all together. Everything inside will be black or black. Not too many options since I like clean and stealth.

Back from powder coat

Getting it all put into the car

Next up was to start plumbing the whole deal. This is where it could be a pain in the rear if you don't have what is needed but I found everything at Redhorse Performance. They make a really fitting and it has a look that not many others have. They are a nice shiny black and very clean style. So I ordered a few up.

And some more

Get them out of the box

Get to fitting then onto the car and making it home for them. First the oil tank to the engine

Here are the front water lines. I will be using the Ice Box inside the car for the engine cooling so that's where they will be ran to.

They run down behind the oil tank and then under the car

Now since they go under the car and I have the tank inside I have to install some bulk head fittings into the floor

Now to move onto the inside. As you can see I put a ball valve to regulate the water flow from the engine to the tank and I also put my engine water temp in the return line from the engine in a home made housing. To me it makes sense to as much stuff off the engine as I can so I did it this way.

Next was to get the intercooler hooked up

Now get the air bottle all set up

More to come

Engine bay shot

Now I have the trans cooler and over flow tank in the back of the car on the underside. So here is what I did with them.

2 Gallon Overflow Tank mounted behind the inside of the rear bumper

Time to get the charge pipe from the turbo hooked up. The Exile turbo has a V-Band clamp set up but it's not the best thing to hard mount the pipe to it. So I had to machine up a nice floating set up to all things to expand and move around so nothing cracks. Here is what I did.

First time welding. Not to bad

Here it is installed. Now I can swap out turbos etc.... with no issue. It's really just remove the clamp and make it fit.

Now that I'm in the engine bay area time to put the final touches on stuff and finish up the little things.

Mounting of wires and line to the boost control valves etc.. tucked inside the loom

Time to jump back into the car and get the rear brake lines done


Well I hoped to make it to the Indy race this weekend but my trans got delayed in shipping and I will not make it. Long story short I sent it back for a little issue I found last week putting it in and elected to swap out first gear to the 1.62 and it is held up in shipping. ATI busted their but to get it finished and out the door and it is on a truck someplace between them and me. I was told the shipping company said I will have it Monday. Kind of stinks.

I will post some updates soon.



Hey Guys...... Well lots of progress on my end. I want to try and get everyone caught up so I can post the goodstuff.

Now the car is most of the detail work is done it time to show the finished touches that went into it.

Here are a bunch of inside shots of the car

It all mount nice and clean under the dash area

I made a little carbon Racepak mount

Now with the inside just about buttoned up it was time to put all the finishing details on the outside.

Now it was time to get the outside stuff done. With the main shell already painted and ready I started to installthe front window. So it was measured out and klicos were used to hold in.

You can't just glue them in so rather than putting sheet metal in it I did a 8/32 rivet nutsert. This will make it nice to remove when needed. Here is how it was done.

I used the hex style and went with a tad smaller hole to keep them from wanting to ever spin

I worked my way around the whole window frame

Once they were all in I placed the window on drilled through the klico holes and finished it off with a countersink bit so the screw heads were flat. I also used the factory front window molding to make the window look basically stock. This is how it looked installed

Now time to repeat the process for the rear

And after a good bit of time and being careful they were all in with out any bubbles or it bunching up anyplace

Now it was off to get the hatch and wing painted. I used a place right next store to our shop called DB Custom Paint. Well needless to say the guys did a great job. Now with the hatch painted I can get the nutserts installed into it.

Same process of drilling the pilot hole in the window and the counter sink for the screws to sit flat and this is how it looked when done

So with the window in the hatch it was time to finish the back half of the car. Next step was to mount the wing. I had the wing all painted up and just had to bolt it all together and installed

Ready to go on

I had to get the tabs all onto the car for the braces. I sent everything out to get powdercoated matte black. I had to also get black rivets to make sure it looked clean installed.

If you look up close I did a black edge trim to keep the wing and hatch from rubbing on each other. This will make sure it doesn't chip on the edges

So with the back half of the car finished and things moving nice I had to think about getting it back on the ground. This is where I had to make one of my hardest decisions. With the car being mostly black and blue I wasn't sure if the wheels looked good as polished and not to mention they would be a major PIA to clean. So the I had 2 choices. Polished or Black..... Hmmmmm

Well after much talk and going back and for with friends I went black. Here is what they looked like.

As you can see it is more of a translucent black. They were anodized but since they were polished and the shopknew what they were doing it has a depth to the black and not just a matte look. Well anyway I love the look.

Now it's time to get the Mickey Thompsons mounted all up

Some Pro 275's

A little trial fit

But I couldn't wait to get it onto the ground but I still had to get the suspension in and set up. Here is what it looked like all done.

Thanks to Midwest Chassis for building a great housing and torque arm set up. It fit's nice under the car.

Some killer JRI Shocks

So here is the car sitting at ride height on the ground. Talk about a exciting day for me.

Alright guys. I'm off to bed for tonight and hopefully I can pick up tomorrow with some stuff and you all up to speed.


Well sorry for the delay but I have been out racing NHRA and working quite a bit but I also have been having fun with the car. I want to bring everyone up to speed and show it finished up.

So with just about everything done it was time to get the front end completed. I posted pictures earlier on of what the front tree setup looked like that held front clip together and on. I will post 1 or 2 here to catch up.

DMC Racing made the front clip come on and off as 1 whole piece

Slide in holders for the front

Inside Mounting

Fender Mounts

Mounted Up front End

The next step in the front end was going to be a bigger project than you would expect. I wanted the hood to be able to get removed from the fenders so I can pull the hood off without having to pull the front end. So I needed to so hood rails on the fenders since it didn't have them. I went to my buddy Craig @ Leading Edge Composites for some Glass & Carbon Fiber work. This is what he did.

The fender only had a return edge to be bolted onto the stock rail. Well we no longer had the stock rail in the car and the needed a edge wide enough to put the hood onto it. Since we were doing that I can make it wide enough to build the dzus rails right into it. It will make for a way cleaner and nicer set up when done. Also one other that needed to get done was the flange needed to be .100 lower on the fender so the hood will sit flush with the fenders.

Step 1 was to build a series of wooden bucks to create an edge to put a strip of metal down for a backing to lay material on and create a flange surface. It also is a compound curve so it proved to be a little tricky but we got it.

Next was to lay some gel coat on the inside of the strip so it will release from the molds made

What it looks like out of the mold

Cleaned up and made to look nice

Test fit the hood

So anyone that has a Camaro knows the back of the hood area and fenders don't exactly work together when you change things. You end up with a hole that goes up to the mirror area and rather than having a flat filler panel I wanted mine to all blend together. So this ended up being a few step process also but we got it done nice and clean.

Since the hood follows a straight line we would have a empty area to side on the fender and would need a filler plate here.

So this is what we did. We made the rail a lot wider on the top of the fender for some support

Finished look

Now I mounted the front clip onto the car and here is what it looked like in that area. Notice the big gaps

So it was time to break out some good old heavy paper and make a template of what needed to be done. The easiest way to make it happen was to add to the hood. Here is how I did it.

I'm doing a little hand modeling here

Trimmed up for a nice clean fit

Graph in some flat carbon to the back of the hood

Then blend it all together

Final thing to do was cut a hole to let some air into the turbo. We put a return flange on it so I can make a intake tube slip around the outside of the opening that will help direct air right into the turbo

Final thing was to drop the front clip off at DB Custom Paint here in Indy. I stopped back a week later to this.

I'm not a fan of cheap stickers so I had them paint the marker lights on it

The nose clip fitted up and mounted and on the car. I also used the OE headlights with some LED bulbs so they work

I have more to come soon. Thanks


So once I got the front clip back from paint it was time to put some dzus buttons onto the hood. I have one of the crush rivet so it makes for a nice clean finish when installed

Here is how it looked up close once all installed

Well now that I was getting close I needed to make sure I had a golf cart to bring to the track. So I got one of these little gems. LOL

But I in no way could use it the way it was. So since I was getting body stuff on the car painted I striped down the golf cart and sent it off to the painter also. While it was striped down I ordered some wheels

Now since I plan to bring the family to the track with me I had to get a back seat set up. My wife said since she will be driving it around we should get a few little look good parts also. Why would anyone argue if your wife tells you to get something. So I ordered a few other bolt on parts and this how it looked when finished

Now with the car getting close I only had a few minor details to button up. One of the big things was to get the NHRA chassis cert done. Luck for me I was able to have a tech guy come by my house during the NHRA US Nationals and get that all taken care of. With no issues at all it passed

I also installed all the Racepak data stuff on the car. The nice thing about the Racepak is with the V Net connectors I was able to just plug the Bigstuff 3 & MSD Grid System right in. This will make sure I can see all of them on the Racepak and I added a few chassis tuning sensors to the car also

Front Lazer Ride Height

Rear Left & Right Shock Travel

I did a firewall bulkhead

I also mounted the vacuum sensor & oil pressure sensor on a bulkhead style fitting on the inside of the firewall and ran lines to them. The other thing that I did was put a analog oil pressure gauge on the outside of the car so it can be seen and if a sensor ever goes bad you can make 100% sure it has pressure

Next to make sure it was all correct I had Joe O from Hyperaktive Performance Solutions come over and make sure it was all working correctly.

It was not long after I had everything fired up and Joe checked to make sure all systems were talking to each other

When he was done I had a few channels that were ready to log some data

Well as things come to end on the build side I keep getting more and more excited. I will get more updates up ASAP


Happy Holidays guys. I hope everyone got to relax and enjoy the time you may or may not have had off. Let me fill you in a little on what I had going on. The last 6 weeks have been quite busy with travel and holidays so I haven't had a whole lot of time to post. So before I talk about the car I want to update everyone on a little trip myself and a few other friends got to take and are very proud of doing. Thanks to the great company Summit Racing Equipment myself, Andrew Hines, Jason Line, Greg Anderson, Dan Runte and Alan Reinhart get to do what we call Operation Appreciation.

See us lucky racers get to travel all over the world to places like Bahrain, Djibouti, Ethiopia to do meet and greets with some of the real hero's in the world, OUR TROOPS. Not many ever think about the people that fight and serve our country to make sure we get to go racing and live free etc.... but I feel this trip is well worth mentioning to everyone. So before you say "you went where"..... I will say it was one of the greatest trips if not the greatest I ever took. We get to meet and see a lot of great people that love motorsports. I have had quite a few troops come up and say hi that know about this build telling me that follow the updates I post here but I have also made friends along the way that I keep in touch with and come to races after they get home so I truly enjoy doing it.

This is us with our buddy Capt David Meron... He is a huge drag race fan and follows it more then anyone would think.

For anyone that would like to check out some of the stories please click on and read the links I posted below. I'm sure you will enjoy them.









I hope you get a chance to check them out!!!!!! Next post will have some car stuff in it.


So as you guys can tell the build process is coming to a close. It has taken roughly 3 years and a small fortune to complete it but in the end I wouldn't have done it any other way. I know I may make it sound like the build is over but really it is just starting. The easy part is done and now the hard part is about to start. That's racing it and making it all work together. Easier said then done. So here are the first pictures of the car ready to run on the ground.

This was an exciting part for me

So the next step was to actually load a map in the Bigstuff ECU and fire it up. Up until this point the engine has never been fired and my plans of dyno testing just never happen. I wanted to try to fire it up to make sure it runs and has no major issues. So I needed to get some parameters and base settings into the ECU to fire it up. Now I know enough to just get me in trouble so I thought getting someone with some experience to help would be a smart idea. I talked with Eric LaFerriere from DMC and he sent me a base map he had and walked me through a few things getting all the data in. Next step was to actually see if it runs. I had no doubt that everything was right so the next step was to crank it and hit the ignition switch.

First thing I did before cranking the engine was to pull the oil pump belt and prime it up. I hooked up a drill and spun it and in about 5 seconds I had 60 PSI oil pressure. I ran it for about 1 minute making sure everything had oiland then put it all back together. Next thing was to add fuel. I got a can of VP C16 and filled the cell up. I'm running a mechanical fuel pump driven off the cam so I pulled the main fuel lines coming out of the pump and poured a little fuel in them to help it prime. Once that was all done I cranked the car for about 10 seconds with a line on the fuel rail open until I started to get a little fuel. Once the fuel started to come out I tightened everything up and double & triple check the engine bay to make sure all was clean and good. Next was to crank the engine and actually hit the ignition switch. Here is what all happen.

So after getting the car to fire I still had a few tweaks to do but I got it to stay running for a little longer

After some TPS setting and fuel changes it ran a little better

I have a few more things to follow.


Sorry for being a little long winded on this post but I wanted everyone to know how it all happen and how I felt.

Even though the engine sounded good and quiet after a few fire ups I thought would be smart to check it all over. So I removed the valve covers to do the lash and pulled the oil filter to check everything out.

When I inspected it all everything looked normal. I needed to just run through the lash and adjust a few valves then throw the covers back on. Once that was all done I did one good check over of the whole car looking for leaks and that all fluid levels were good and everything checked out great. Now with the car on the ground and ready to run the next part was to get it tuned. I thought it would be good to work with someone local to me. I wanted to run the car on a chassis dyno to make sure we had a safe setup and everything functioned well. After a little bit of research I called up the guys at PTP Racing and got Patrick Barnhill to work his magic. I known Patrick for sometime and as many may know he's been doing this for quite a while and has many records under his belt. So we spoke for a bit and made a game plan.

Patrick felt he could build a map that was very close without putting the car on a dyno. He thought we could throw and map in it and head off to the track and make a few hits and tune it that way. So the first step was getting a PTP Racing tune up into the car. So you would think he had to come to my house or the track and start working away. Nope not in todays age of computers. What was really cool is Patrick remote tuned it from his living room while I was sitting in the car with my laptop hooked up to the car. Not only was he doing the map and all the set up he was also spending time teaching me how everything worked. After about a 2 hour session Patrick says well are you ready and I'm like ready for what. His reply was if this bitch spools with the ATI Converter you need to take it to the track tomorrow.

The good news was I was ready to test the converter to make sure the car spools and everything but the bad news is it is 11PM at night. You might say why is that bad news. Well see I live in a development with about 75 homes so the bad news was my neighbors most likely will not be happy with me after this but I can assure you it wasn't keeping me from doing it. So I opened the garage door and put a jack under the rear to get the wheels off the ground and jumped into the car. I'm on my phone and Patrick is hooked to the car and we are talking and making a plan. I fire it up and the car runs way nicer and he is changing a few areas and then I spool it up on the break. It took about 5 seconds to hit our target and all went well. We shut the car down to clean some areas up and then tried it again. It spooled a little faster and Patrick liked it so he said I think you're good to go. I'm sure by now my neighbors weren't excited for me but man waited a long time to do that.

So the next day I came home around 12 and drive the car down my driveway for the first time and took it for a cruise through the neighborhood to make sure it stopped and went through the gears. Everything went great and I was pumped. Here is a picture I took sitting in front on the street.

I loaded the trailer up and headed off to the track.

So once I get it out of the trailer I drive the car around for a few minutes and head over to tech inspection. Everything passed with no issues and then I start getting into race mode and prep the car with fresh ice and setting the tires etc....

Next step was to actually strap in and make a run. Now the first run was a planned shut off run. I wanted to get the feel of the whole car thing again and make sure I did all the stuff inside the car correctly. So I get in buckle up and make my way to the ready line. It is just now it is all sinking in. I'm actually going to drive the car and make a run.

The tune up was very safe. We left the line with 6 lbs of boost and ramped it to 12 over 2 seconds and this is how it worked out.

All I can say was WOW!!!!! It left the line and went dead straight with not even one little hitch. Now I have been 1.03 60ft times and 6.7's at 200 MPH on a motorcycle but man what a rush I got driving the car. I was on top of the world and happy as could be.

After getting back to the trailer we downloaded some info checked a few things out and everything again looked great. Patrick wasn't able to make it but I had him remote tuning and checking things over while I was getting the car ready. So we ran through the checklist going over everything and made our way back to the lanes. The tune up was left just about the same except for a little less fuel at the start. I'm bucked in ready to go and then a car 2 cars in front of me blows the trans apart and the track crew has a hour oil down to clean. By this time it's 8:30 and it's getting dark and colder out. The car got about 40ft and knocked the tires off. I just half throttled it the rest of the way but here is how the run went.

After the run I didn't want to rush and try to make a run on the cold track so I just packed it up and went home. In my eyes the outing was a huge success. I couldn't have been anymore excited and was just happy to get the car to the track to make some runs. Well as if you can't tell I'm excited and looking forward to getting the car out and putting some laps on it. I still have a few more updates and will post them as soon as I can. I still have some more good things to come. Thanks for reading.


Hey Guys

Sorry for no updates and slow on posting stuff. I have a ton of things to post about including changes and updates on the car but just have not had time. I have to put racing my bike first and we have been struggling to get the tune ups right on our bikes so that has taken all my free time up.

However I can say I've made a good bit of runs on the car and it is coming around. I have had it set up very soft so I can learn how to drive and tune the thing. I want to make sure I'm 100% with it all and not be the guy who builds a really nice car but wrecked it. Not many may understand how fast they can get out from under you and be in the wall before you even know what happen and I'm not looking to be one of them guys.

The most it has seen has been 14lbs of boost. The car weight is X275 legal at 2250 lbs has been 4.85 @ 152 to date. Anyone who has looked at the runs have been quite shocked on well it has ran for the tune up in it. On the last 6 runs it has been 1.22 - 1.24 sixty foot each lap staying very smooth.

My current tune up in it has been

Leave - 4200 RPM with 4 lbs of Boost
Ramp time vs boost #'s are

.3 sec - 4 lbs
.6 sec - 5 lbs
.9 sec - 6 lbs
1.2 sec - 8 lbs
1.5 sec - 9 lbs
2.0 sec - 12 lbs
2.3 sec - 14 lbs

So I'm very happy with the results and think it will go 4.6's with ease and should have not much of an issue going into the .50's @ 160 +

I just pulled the engine last week and dropped it off at Billy Briggs shop to inspect. Nothing was wrong with it all other then I wanted to have it all inspected now that it has 20+ runs on it. I want to be safe and that was the plan from start. July and August are hot and I'm away racing most weekends so it is the perfect to do it. It never hurts to make sure everything is working the way it should.

Dragzine will have a big write up coming out shortly and I will be sure to post a link. Once I get a chance I will update this thread with a bunch of info and video. Thanks again for everyone asking for info updates so I will be sure to get something written up as soon as I can.



Here is a good write up on the build.



Thanks guys......

Sorry for being gone so long. Long story short I started the process of building a house so I put my current one up for sale and it sold in like 10 days so I had to move out and into an apartment. Basically that flipped my whole year upside down and living out of boxes for 2016......... It sucked but I finally moved into my house a few weeks ago and getting back at it.

I still have to finish the posting a few things and maybe I can update this deal soon but the car is ready to go for Feb Lights Out....

I have been mid 4.5's @ 161 with it as of now but hopefully can pick away at it next month some more and lower the ET some. Honestly I know it should go 4.4's with out much of a hassle. I think if the weather is good I have a very good shot at it. I'm still very soft on the tune up I believe and picking away a little at a time.

I will try to get a few things up but if you are ever at the track be sure to come by and say hi. It's great to meet new people and put a face with a name. I will try to post up here very soon with some video's and pictures.